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Article
Publication date: 17 May 2023

Chunling Liang, Ting Zou, Yan Zhang, Yuanyuan Li and Ping Wang

This paper aims to design a composite, aiming to improve the static puncture resistance through polyurethane impregnated treatment with five concentration gradients.

71

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to design a composite, aiming to improve the static puncture resistance through polyurethane impregnated treatment with five concentration gradients.

Design/methodology/approach

The relationship between polyurethane concentration, the number of polyester nonwovens, component fiber type (filament or staple) and the static puncture resistance is explored respectively and elaborately.

Findings

This study provides a new perspective to design flexible composites with better static puncture resistance, feasible preparation process as well as low cost.

Originality/value

The results show that the static puncture resistance of nonwovens impregnated by polyurethane is improved obviously. Meanwhile the puncture strength-T of nonwovens increases first and then decreases with the increase of the number of layers, and the maximum puncture strength-T is found at 20 layers. Moreover, the composite with filaments illustrates better mechanical resistance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 June 2001

Andreja Rudolf and Jelka Geršak

Presents the study of the relationship between the deformation of the sewing thread and built‐in fibres as a consequence of a thread loading in the sewing process. The influence…

495

Abstract

Presents the study of the relationship between the deformation of the sewing thread and built‐in fibres as a consequence of a thread loading in the sewing process. The influence of the stitching speed and different twist numbers of PES thread on the alteration of the mechanical properties of the fibres twisted in the thread was studied for that purpose. On the basis of the received results it was found that with an increase in the number of the thread twist, the breaking tenacity and initial elasticity modulus of the fibres decrease, while the resulting deformation of the sewing thread between the sewing process was reflected as a decrease in the fineness and breaking extension of the fibres and as an increase in the value of the initial elasticity modulus of the fibres.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 13 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 20 May 2022

Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk

This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to…

179

Abstract

Purpose

This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to investigate the effects of material type, sewing parameters, and repeated washing cycles on sewing damage by using this method.

Design/methodology/approach

Six knitted fabrics, differing in structure and raw material, were produced. Samples were sewn using different sewing parameters, and they were subjected to ten washing cycles. Values of average needle hole area, an objective indicator of sewing damage, were calculated before and after repeated washing cycles using image analysis software and were evaluated statistically.

Findings

The results showed that the average needle hole area calculated via the image analysis software effectively estimates sewing damage as the results obtained were compatible with those stated in the literature. Furthermore, fabric type, sewing direction, sewing thread type, and needle size significantly affected the sewing damage. However, stitch density did not affect the sewing damage. When the effect of washing cycles was compared, it was seen that washing leads to an increase in sewing damage.

Originality/value

A review of the existing literature shows that no previous study has evaluated sewing damage using image analysis software. This study proposes a novel objective method to determine the sewing damage that occurs in knitted fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 March 1999

Eric Mallet and Ruxu Du

Sewing is one of the most commonly used manufacturing processes in the world. Millions of parts are sewn every day ranging from cloths, shoes, furniture, to automobile seat…

974

Abstract

Sewing is one of the most commonly used manufacturing processes in the world. Millions of parts are sewn every day ranging from cloths, shoes, furniture, to automobile seat covers. However, it is also one of the least understood processes. In fact, according to literature survey, few know how to calculate the sewing force or the fabric deformation during the sewing. This paper presents our research on using finite element model (FEM) to study the sewing process. The model is developed using ANSYS software system. In the model, the fabric is approximated by a number of perpendicular beam elements with elastic and plastic capabilities. On the other hand, the needle is modeled by a simple elastic beam. The contact between the two parts is modeled by contact elements. The variations of the needle geometry and the fabric material properties as well as the sewing conditions are also included in the model. The model can simulate the needle piercing through a material, and calculates the sewing forces as well as the fabric deformation forming a hole. It has been verified experimentally and can be used to study the effects of the key sewing parameters such as the fabric material properties and the needle geometry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 11 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 7 June 2024

Abhishek Kumar and Manpreet Manshahia

Stitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to…

59

Abstract

Purpose

Stitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to penetrate inside the garment, compromising its functionality. This study aims to investigate different techniques for covering the needle holes formed during stitching to achieve a seam that is waterproof, durable and functionally effective.

Design/methodology/approach

This study investigates different methods to cover needle holes formed during stitching with the help of seam tape, seam grip adhesive and fuser thread. The emphasis is on evaluating the seam characteristics, including seam strength, seam efficiency, puckering, bending stiffness and resistance to water penetration. Statistical analysis involves the use of the Shapiro–Wilk test, Levene statistic, one-way ANOVA and Tukey’s HSD and Tamhane post-hoc tests.

Findings

The experimental results suggest that seam tape is effective in enhancing water resistance, seam strength and seam efficiency, but it contributes to stiffness and aesthetically degrades seams due to increased puckering. Meanwhile, the use of fuser thread presents an alternative, exhibiting improved waterproof properties compared to regular stitching. It offers more flexibility and less puckering compared to seam tape.

Originality/value

This study contributes novel insights by shifting the focus from alternative seaming methods such as bonding and welding, to enhancing traditional stitching for waterproof seam construction. While prior research primarily explored alternatives to stitching, this study uniquely addresses the effectiveness of different techniques in covering needle holes to achieve waterproof seams. The findings provide valuable information for enhancing the functionality of stitched seams in the production of waterproof breathable garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 October 2021

Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric…

540

Abstract

Purpose

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

Design/methodology/approach

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

Findings

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

Originality/value

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 1 December 1999

Evangelos Liasi, Ruxu Du, Dan Simon, Jasmina Bujas‐Dimitrejevic and Frank Liburdi

This paper presents an experimental study on needle heating in sewing heavy materials such as upholstery fabrics. In the experiments, infrared (IR) radiometry, high speed line…

622

Abstract

This paper presents an experimental study on needle heating in sewing heavy materials such as upholstery fabrics. In the experiments, infrared (IR) radiometry, high speed line scanning IR radiometry, and high speed IR radiometry are used to obtain thermal images of the needle during sewing. In particular, IR radiometry was used in lower speed sewing (approximately 500rpm). High speed IR and high speed line scanning IR radiometry were used for medium speed sewing (1,000‐2,000rpm). Using Taguchi’s design of experiment method, the effects of various factors are studied including needle conditions (sharp or blunt), sewing speeds, number of stitches per inch, material being sewn, and thread tension. It is found that even with air vortex cooling the needle may still reach high enough temperatures that may affect the sewing quality and even cause thread breakage. This was confirmed via a thread tensile testing experiment. An empirical model of the mean needle temperature is also proposed and tested.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 11 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 8 May 2018

Awadhesh Kumar Choudhary, Monica Puri Sikka and Payal Bansal

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the…

848

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

Design/methodology/approach

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Findings

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

Originality/value

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 9 November 2021

Biqin Zhan, Xian Huang, Chenyuan Cai and Honglian Cong

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new…

178

Abstract

Purpose

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.

Findings

On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.

Originality/value

In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 7 November 2016

Hu Zhou, Bin Yu, Ning Li, Jie Zhou, Xiaoyang Luo, Jialin Tang and Xianzhi Qin

This paper aims to provide a new drilling entry board for printed circuit board (PCB) process, superior in heat dissipation, lubrication, water solubility and hole location…

171

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to provide a new drilling entry board for printed circuit board (PCB) process, superior in heat dissipation, lubrication, water solubility and hole location accuracy, achieving an excellent drilling process.

Design/methodology/approach

Using a mixture of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and water-soluble adhesives as hydrosoluble, endothermic and lubricant resins and aluminum foils as baseplates, a series of coated and aluminous entry boards (CABs) for PCB drilling was successfully prepared. The surface appearance of the entry boards was observed clearly by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The endothermic and lubricant effects of the resins applied on the CABs was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and their water solubility was tested in the normal-temperature water (25°C). Moreover, the CABs’ good drilling properties were tested when they were used for PCB drilling.

Findings

The SEM analysis showed that the surfaces of the resin layers coated on the CABs whose coating thicknesses were less than 80 μm were smoother and flatter, which could improve hole location accuracy and reduce drill breakage ratio. By virtue of DSC, the endothermic and lubricant effects of the CABs were proven. The fusion of PEG in the resin layers could absorb the heat produced by drilling, restrain the temperature of the drill bit and hole rising and lubricate the drill bit efficiently when a hole was being drilled, which could achieve high-quality holes with good production efficiency. The water-soluble test showed that the prepared CABs had excellent water solubility at normal temperature, enabling the resin left on the hole walls and in the flute of the drill bit to be washed away easily and thereby improving the drilling efficiency and quality. The drilling tests showed that the increase in the thickness of the CABs’ coating could improve the hole location accuracy and alleviate the bit wear. In addition, the suitable coating thickness could ensure the firm adhering of the resin coating the aluminum foil, effectively avoid drill intertwist and prevent the resin debris from blocking the drilled holes on the surface of the entry board, which could hinder chip removal, resulting in poor hole wall quality and drill breakage.

Originality/value

This paper has a remarkably high industrial practicality in the PCB manufacture process.

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