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This study focuses on the objective evaluation of the silhouette of the front bloused line of women’s blouses, in which fusible interlinings are used in the construction of the open part. The wearing test was carried out over three seasons and the bloused lines before and after the fatigue were observed and examined in relation to the mechanical properties of fused composites and their constituent fabrics. Since bending properties and KOSHI were found to play an important role in the change of the silhouette formation of bloused lines, those of fused fabrics were studied by applying the simple model. Finally, in the sensory test, applying the blouses fatigued and not fatigued, their open parts made up of fused composite are evaluated by 71 consumers for their preference. The essential concepts involved in the consumer preference were clarified.

Examines the causes of rippling, localized delamination or surface distortion in fused garment theoretically and experimentally. On the basis of this study proposes a parameter, called rippling potential, to combine the effects of bond strength, differential shrinkage, compliance of outer fabrics and fusible interlinings and fabric formability on the degree of rippling. Suggests preventive measures to avoid rippling in fused garment parts.

The paper aims to evaluate the influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on the seam pucker.

The mechanical properties of sewing thread were obtained performing tensile testing research. The seam pucker of lightweight fabric was evaluated after sewing, then after 24 h, after 48 h as well as after washing and drying. To determine dimension changes of fabric, the relaxation shrinkage was calculated. The results of thread properties and seam pucker were compared.

In respect of seam pucker the best results were established sewing with polyester threads, the reversible strain of which were the least. After washing and drying, the highest pucker was typical of the specimens sewn with cotton sewing threads. It was noticed that increasing the amount of layers in sewing the influence of threads on seam pucker decreases. Washing and drying made considerably greater influence on the occurrence of pucker then time.

This study has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper recommendations involved with application of sewing thread and evaluation of seam pucker are presented.

In most cases the changes of sewn thread mechanical properties after sewing is analysed. This study is aimed to determine the influence of thread properties on seam pucker. Recommendations in the area of sewing thread and garment quality are based on the research.

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

The paper aims to establish and introduce seam pucker assessment indicators and their dependence upon the fabric characteristics and parameters of a sewing machine.

Seams pucker defect is specific to garment from lightweight fabrics, therefore the investigation was performed with this kind of fabrics. The structure and friction properties of fabrics were determined. The influence of rotational frequency of the main shaft (varied from 200 till 2,300 min⁻¹) and pressing force (from 25 till 85 N) on seam pucker was analysed. The seam pucker was evaluated by characteristic of sharpness calculated as ratio of pucker height and length.

Analysis of the obtained results allows stating that pucker sharpness increases with growing rotational frequency of the main shaft and decreases, increasing pressing force. On the basis of correlation analysis, the relationship between proposed new indicator of seam pucker evaluation and parameters of sewing machine was sought. The obtained result demonstrates that in most cases the relative pucker coefficient is dependent upon rotational frequency of the main shaft: increasing rotational frequency also leads to higher pucker coefficient. The linear relationship between the pucker coefficient and pressing force was not observed.

This investigation has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper, results involved with evaluation of seam pucker are presented.

The research showed that in order to define seam pucker more comprehensive, it is necessary to evaluate not only ratio of pucker height and length, but also the quantity of puckers as well as their propagation. Considering to this, the new criterion for seam pucker evaluation was proposed.

Stitching is the traditional method of creating seams using needles and threads. However, this is not useful for waterproof breathable garments as needle holes allow water to penetrate inside the garment, compromising its functionality. This study aims to investigate different techniques for covering the needle holes formed during stitching to achieve a seam that is waterproof, durable and functionally effective.

This study investigates different methods to cover needle holes formed during stitching with the help of seam tape, seam grip adhesive and fuser thread. The emphasis is on evaluating the seam characteristics, including seam strength, seam efficiency, puckering, bending stiffness and resistance to water penetration. Statistical analysis involves the use of the Shapiro–Wilk test, Levene statistic, one-way ANOVA and Tukey’s HSD and Tamhane post-hoc tests.

The experimental results suggest that seam tape is effective in enhancing water resistance, seam strength and seam efficiency, but it contributes to stiffness and aesthetically degrades seams due to increased puckering. Meanwhile, the use of fuser thread presents an alternative, exhibiting improved waterproof properties compared to regular stitching. It offers more flexibility and less puckering compared to seam tape.

This study contributes novel insights by shifting the focus from alternative seaming methods such as bonding and welding, to enhancing traditional stitching for waterproof seam construction. While prior research primarily explored alternatives to stitching, this study uniquely addresses the effectiveness of different techniques in covering needle holes to achieve waterproof seams. The findings provide valuable information for enhancing the functionality of stitched seams in the production of waterproof breathable garments.

To investigate consumers’ perceptions of appearance and handle of the chest area and the lapel in men’s tailored jackets, both objective measurement using FAST and subjective assessment utilising semi‐structured interview were employed. It was found that objective measurement provides insufficient information to predict the tailorability if reliance is placed purely upon properties obtained from shell fabrics. Use of the fabric and interlining laminates, however, provides better prediction of tailorability, especially those aspects associated with appearance and shape retention. It was also found that objective measurement results do not agree with the subjective assessment results, particularly with regard to the subjective assessment of the female interviewees. It is suggested that thought should be given to devising a method of evaluating objective measurement results suitable to fabric and interlining laminates that can also take account of market trends directly related to consumer perception.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate some important parameters in plate buckling of fused interlining worsted fabric with different weight and laying‐up direction. The article compares the formability of fused fabric composite by two different methods (Lindberg's hypothesis and fabric assurance by simple testing method).

Plate buckling compression behavior of fused fabric composite is investigated using a special designed clamp according to Dahlberg's test method.

The result shows that fusible interlining lay‐up angle significantly influences on buckling parameters. It is indicated that the buckling behavior of fused fabric composite against lay‐up interlining direction is in accordance with interlining buckling behavior. The result of research suggests that the formability behavior of fused fabric composite with interlining lay‐up direction is predictable according to Lindberg's method.

Experimental design is limited at low speed. Further research works are needed to perform buckling behavior of fused fabric composites at higher speeds as well as under cyclic loading conditions.

Compression plate buckling behavior of fused interlining fabrics is predictable against interlining laying‐up direction. The result of this research could be used in the area of garment quality serviceability.