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The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of assembly type on the hand property of the polyester-knitted materials containing different amounts of elastane fibre.

The hand property of control textile materials specimens as well as assembled ones applying both adhesive bonding and sewing was evaluated analysing the typical pulling curves as well as the individual hand parameters, which were determined using the device KTU-Griff-Tester. The complex hand criterion Q was calculated for the complete assessment of both textiles and their assemblies’ hand by one numeral value.

It was shown that the fabric structure and assembly type have a significant influence on the knitted materials hand property. The complex hand criterion Q varied from 0.068 to 0.186, depending on the material structure, and it was decreased up to 42.6 per cent due to textile assemblies.

The determined research results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads to the improvement in clothing quality in fashion industry suggesting more ergonomic and original constructional decisions for clothes’ design, selection of most suitable assembly type and its place in overall garment area, which is very important for the development process of the slim fitted sportswear featuring with a very complicated construction, usually worn under intensive body movements causing rubbing effect to the skin.

Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic but also have perfect hand, thus making them to feel comfortable. But hand property of assembled textiles had not been investigated previously. Novelty and originality of this research was the objective and simple evaluation of the hand property for both knitted materials and their assemblies taking into account the overall skin sensorial comfort of a garment.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and standard method.

Investigations were performed with commercially available eight polyester knitted fabrics containing different elastane yarn proportion. Bonded seams were laminated applying the urethane thermoplastic adhesive film of 0.175 mm thickness. Bonds were laminated by heat at 5.6 kPa pressure applying pressing device GTK DEA 25 R at 140°C temperature for 40 s duration. Sewn seams were assembled with 607 covering chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density and 512 overedge chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density. Specimens without and with the seams were conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions according to the standard LST EN ISO 139 before air permeability testing according to the standard LST EN ISO 9237. Standard thickness of the investigated knitted fabric was determined according to the standard EN ISO 5084. It is known from literature that the porosity is dominant factor influencing the air permeability of knitted fabrics. Therefore, the assumption was made that due to fabric porosity knitted fabric thickness being measured at different pressures also may differ. Thus, the permeability property may also be related to the difference between fabric’s thicknesses being measured under different pressures which may be applied with different material thickness gauges.

There was shown that fabric assemblies make the significant influence on the textile permeability to air. The results obtained indicate that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Air permeability of the specimens with the seams was lower than one of specimens without the seams. The highest decrease in permeability which ranged from 19.9 per cent up to 60.0 per cent was determined for the bonds. Fabric specimens with 607 covering chain stitch seam were in the second place with regard to the previously considered parameter. And, their permeability was decreased from 0.6 per cent up to 52.6 per cent. Changes in the air permeability of the specimens with 512 overedge chain stitch seam were lowest in the range of investigated assemblies. Based on the determined results, it was concluded that the thickness difference of the specimens with and without seams measured at different pressures is related to fabric porosity which makes the significant influence on the air permeability.

The samples of investigated fabrics were taken from the two companies which manufactures leisure clothing and sportswear such as skiing or swimming costumes, etc. Thus, the obtained investigation results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads the improvement of clothing quality in fashion industry.

Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of clothing, especially of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic, but also have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere, thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, the air permeability of commercially available polyester knitted fabrics containing different amount of elastane was investigated and the influence of fabric assemblies on the air permeability property was evaluated. A new approach based on the fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and the standard methods for the evaluation of air permeability were used.

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength.

Commercially produced polyamide and polyester knitted fabric, and polyester woven fabrics as well as three commercially available monolayer urethane thermoplastic films were used in this research. Two layers of each fabric were laminated at 160°C temperature at 5.6 kPa for 20 seconds. Sewn specimens were joined applying (301) and (514) stiches for woven and knitted fabrics, respectively. The bond and sewn seam strength was investigated at different delamination loading velocities (50, 100, 150, 200, 300 mm/min). These values of velocities lies in the velocity interval which covers the different standard requirements for testing of the quality of textiles and their seams or were applied in the research works of previous scientists. As the influence of loading velocity was more significant for bond strength, the bond strength results were analyzed together with the analysis of bond rupture character.

The determined influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds strength has proved that the loading velocity in bond strength test is of high importance for the prediction of the behavior of clothing being in exploitation under different conditions. The opposite tendency was determined for the sewn seams, the strength of which was independent on loading velocity.

The influence of the loading velocity on textile bond and sewn seam strength was not analyzed in the previous research works published by other scientists. It was known that the standard velocity is 50 mm/min for seams and 100 mm/min for textiles strength testing. It was shown there that the real exploitation of a garment as a whole complicated heterogenic dynamic system could be simulated with changing loading velocities during their seam strength testing. It was also determined that the loading velocity makes different influence on bonded and sewn seams of textiles.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of embroidering technological parameters, of knitted material structure and of either using or not nonwoven material for backing on the quality of restangular embroidered element; based on the obtained results to select the optimal technological parameters for the embroidering of original clothing element avoiding the higher time expenses for the technical development process of new product.

The new methodology for the optimization of technology of original embroidered clothing element is based on the measurements of simple geometric element.

The methodology of technology optimisation based on the measurement of restangular element geometric parameters can also be applied for the optimization of the embroidering technology of advanced design elements.

The present study was carried out investigating knitted materials, but its methodology may be used for woven fabrics also, as their elongation rate is lower than one of knitted materials.

Development of the embroidering technology of original clothing element is based on the scientific approach and industrial experience.

This paper aims to develop the methodology for the imitation of exploitation conditions of textile products as well as to determine the exploitation peculiarities of high‐performance fabrics for outdoor clothing producible in Lithuania.

Static‐ and dynamic‐cyclic loading was applied for the imitation of exploitation conditions as well as for the investigation of the changes in specimen geometrical parameters.

The differences in the parameters of textile material stability determined under dry and wet cyclic specimen deformation were determined. The investigation results presented show that the parameters of air permeability can be used for the determination of changes in textile product shapes due to their cyclic washing as well as to the other kinds of wet technological treatment, especially in these cases when the small areas of product material are deformed.

The problems concerned with the methodology for the evaluation of exploitation stability of high‐performance fabrics (woven and knitted) for outdoor clothing are analyzed in this research.

In most cases, the exploitation behaviour of textile materials is investigated under uniaxial or static biaxial deformation. For better imitation of real exploitation conditions of textiles the new testing methodology based on two testing methods was established (original device for punch deformation working in creep mode as well as using wet and dry specimens; device ARRV for cyclic fatigue).

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.