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Article
Publication date: 18 June 2019

Agnė Lagė and Kristina Ancutienė

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip…

704

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly.

Design/methodology/approach

For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (dbust, dwaist, dhip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics.

Findings

It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on.

Research limitations/implications

This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis.

Practical implications

The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing.

Originality/value

The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 31 January 2025

Ana Černiavskaja, Kristina Ancutienė and Loreta Valatkienė

The goal of this research is to utilize 3D virtual fitting technology to design and develop a customized full leg sleeve with graduated compression and strategically placed…

16

Abstract

Purpose

The goal of this research is to utilize 3D virtual fitting technology to design and develop a customized full leg sleeve with graduated compression and strategically placed adhesive stripes, aiming to improve training effectiveness by restricting bending movement in the leg.

Design/methodology/approach

Knitted fabric and polymer adhesive film were chosen for compression garment development. The design of adhesive stripes was based on Kinesio taping method. Pattern design and 3D visualization was performed using Modaris 3D (CAD Lectra). The compression values were determined by the Laplace equation. The compression full leg sleeve with and without the adhesive stripes were fitted on the virtual mannequin in the squat position in order to determine the influence of adhesive stripes for tensile load in longitudinal direction.

Findings

The compression values in a virtual garment varied from 23.17 ± 1.94 mmHg in the ankle girth to 13.41 ± 1.50 mmHg in the thigh girth. The difference did not exceed 3 mmHg compared to the planned pressure values. The obtained result showed that purposefully placed adhesive stripes significantly increased the tensile force in the longitudinal direction of the garment in a squat position, so it may improve training effectiveness.

Research limitations/implications

3D virtual fitting represents the fit on a solid body form, which may affect the accuracy of compression garment simulation, as the human body is not rigid.

Originality/value

The application of 3D virtual fitting technology in creating customized and functional garments demonstrates its unique contribution to garment prototyping and product development.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 23 May 2023

Kestutis Lekeckas, Julija Stirbe, Kristina Ancutiene and Ruta Valusyte

To explore the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength of 3D printing materials and chiffon fabrics, and to develop an original design clothing prototype with an…

460

Abstract

Purpose

To explore the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength of 3D printing materials and chiffon fabrics, and to develop an original design clothing prototype with an extended functionality that would be compatible with the specifics of the circular design.

Design/methodology/approach

Four different chiffon fabrics and four 3D printed materials were chosen as the research subjects to determine the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength and ductility. The uniaxial tensile test was used to determine pull-out force and the pull-out elongation from the interlayer.

Findings

3D printed TPU elements can be used to join clothing parts made from low-elasticity chiffon fabrics to improve wearing comfort. In order to comply with the circular economy concept, it is important to select such adhesion parameters of the 3D printed elements and the material system that would ensure wear comfort and withstand wear-level loads; and at the end of the life cycle of a garment, the 3D printed elements could be separated from the product and recycled.

Originality/value

The systems developed can be used to renew and repair products, adding originality, individual touch or additional decorative features, while extending the functional possibilities of clothing items in accordance with circular design principles.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 14 April 2020

Xin Ying, Zheng Liu, Guang Chen and Fengyuan Zou

The comfort and fit of clothes are affected by fabric properties, dressed ease and environmental conditions, in which dressed ease is influenced by the interaction among complex…

148

Abstract

Purpose

The comfort and fit of clothes are affected by fabric properties, dressed ease and environmental conditions, in which dressed ease is influenced by the interaction among complex shapes of human body, style design and fabric mechanical properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the dressed ease distribution at waist section, which is related to body surface convex angle, was investigated using 3D scanning. A series of surface convex angles on bust and back were formed after adjusting the mannequin. The mannequin was scanned by TC2 separately in garments with eight different ease allowances. Then the dressed ease distributions at waist under different convex angles of body surface have been acquired by calculating the distance between waist points and dressed surfaces along normal directions.

Findings

The results showed that the body surface convex angle was weakly related to the dressed ease when the garments’ bust ease allowance was below 4 cm. When the garments’ bust ease allowance was within 6–12 cm, the body convex angle had a great impact on the dressed waist ease distribution in the condition of 26º–33º bust convex angle and 13.96º–17.96º back slope angle. For slack garments with more than 16 cm ease allowance, the dressed waist ease distribution did not relate to the bust convex angle, while it strongly related to the bust convex angle between 13.96º and 17.96º. The regression model was statistically significant between the dressed ease value and the body surface convex angle.

Originality/value

According to the dressed waist ease distribution of different body surface convex angles, this paper gives an application of pattern modification in order to optimize the waist fit. The results can provide guidance for the optimization of different body shapes. At the same time, the application of gap data to 3D virtual fitting can greatly improve the authenticity of virtual simulation effect.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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