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The impact of body surface convex angle on dressed waist ease

Xin Ying (Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, China)
Zheng Liu (Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, China) (Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Hangzhou, China) (Engineering Research Center of Clothing of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang, China)
Guang Chen (School of Date Science and Software Engineering, Qingdao University, Qingdao, China)
Fengyuan Zou (Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, China) (Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Hangzhou, China) (Engineering Research Center of Clothing of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang, China)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 14 April 2020

Issue publication date: 15 July 2020

149

Abstract

Purpose

The comfort and fit of clothes are affected by fabric properties, dressed ease and environmental conditions, in which dressed ease is influenced by the interaction among complex shapes of human body, style design and fabric mechanical properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the dressed ease distribution at waist section, which is related to body surface convex angle, was investigated using 3D scanning. A series of surface convex angles on bust and back were formed after adjusting the mannequin. The mannequin was scanned by TC2 separately in garments with eight different ease allowances. Then the dressed ease distributions at waist under different convex angles of body surface have been acquired by calculating the distance between waist points and dressed surfaces along normal directions.

Findings

The results showed that the body surface convex angle was weakly related to the dressed ease when the garments’ bust ease allowance was below 4 cm. When the garments’ bust ease allowance was within 6–12 cm, the body convex angle had a great impact on the dressed waist ease distribution in the condition of 26º–33º bust convex angle and 13.96º–17.96º back slope angle. For slack garments with more than 16 cm ease allowance, the dressed waist ease distribution did not relate to the bust convex angle, while it strongly related to the bust convex angle between 13.96º and 17.96º. The regression model was statistically significant between the dressed ease value and the body surface convex angle.

Originality/value

According to the dressed waist ease distribution of different body surface convex angles, this paper gives an application of pattern modification in order to optimize the waist fit. The results can provide guidance for the optimization of different body shapes. At the same time, the application of gap data to 3D virtual fitting can greatly improve the authenticity of virtual simulation effect.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

This paper was supported by Natural Science Foundation of Zhejiang Province (LY15E050028), Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

Citation

Ying, X., Liu, Z., Chen, G. and Zou, F. (2020), "The impact of body surface convex angle on dressed waist ease", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 32 No. 4, pp. 571-587. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-08-2019-0116

Publisher

:

Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2020, Emerald Publishing Limited

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