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Article
Publication date: 6 March 2007

Chin‐Man Chen

The purpose of this study is to evaluate fit of the basic garments made for Taiwanese female students with various figure characteristics. The basic garments are produced…

1977

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to evaluate fit of the basic garments made for Taiwanese female students with various figure characteristics. The basic garments are produced according to patterns derived from the PDS 2000 and APDS‐3D systems.

Design/methodology/approach

This study recruited ten Taiwanese female subjects who represented various figure characteristics. After scanning each subject, the body measurements with additional functional ease were manually entered into the APDS‐3D system accompanied with the PDS 2000 system to generate the block patterns. These patterns were used to make basic garments worn on the subjects for fit evaluations. T‐test and one‐way ANOVA were employed to investigate if any statistically significant differences between figure characteristics of subjects exist.

Findings

After statistical analysis, results showed that the percentage of tolerance allowed by the system in preventing incorrect measurements has to be revised and more measurements have to be included into the APDS‐3D system. Furthermore, female students who exhibit multiple figure variations complicate fitting problems. For example, sloped‐shoulder subjects with narrow shoulders and forward stance generate the problem of extra fabric gathering at the shoulder tips as well as looseness at the upper chest. Therefore, figure variations have to be analyzed in a future study.

Research limitations/implications

The convenient sample with limited size does not allow generalization of figure variations associated with fit problems in all colleges or universities located in Taiwan.

Originality/value

Few researchers have analyzed fit problems on garments made for females with figure variations, but none of them use 3D body scanners in combination with computer‐aided design systems to test fit on basic garments for females with various physical characteristics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

KyoungOk Kim, Noriaki Innami, Masayuki Takatera, Tadaharu Narita, Midori Kanazawa and Yuji Kitazawa

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the current challenges to making individualized men’s dress shirt adjustments, and devised a novel measurement method to assess…

317

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the current challenges to making individualized men’s dress shirt adjustments, and devised a novel measurement method to assess shoulder shape.

Design/methodology/approach

To understand the common complaints about ready-to-wear dress shirts, a wear evaluation with 15 Japanese males was performed. The shoulder components of these shirts could not be adjusted using any currently available measurement methods. The three-dimensional body shape of two subjects who had a problem with the shoulder of ready-to-wear shirts was compared with a dummy designed to represent the average Japanese male.

Findings

The authors determined that one of the subjects with an incompatible shoulder fit had a shoulder point (SP) line that was anterior to the one measured on the average dummy. The other subject had a smaller shoulder angle than the average dummy. To effectively measure the wearer’s shoulder characteristics, the authors devised a new measuring device that can measure the shoulder angle and its degree of forward thrust. With this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

Originality/value

The authors devised a new measuring device to assess shoulder angle and forward thrust, qualities that previously could not be measured without three-dimensional analysis. Using this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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