Individualized male dress shirt adjustments using a novel method for measuring shoulder shape

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the current challenges to making individualized men’s dress shirt adjustments, and devised a novel measurement method to assess shoulder shape.

Design/methodology/approach

To understand the common complaints about ready-to-wear dress shirts, a wear evaluation with 15 Japanese males was performed. The shoulder components of these shirts could not be adjusted using any currently available measurement methods. The three-dimensional body shape of two subjects who had a problem with the shoulder of ready-to-wear shirts was compared with a dummy designed to represent the average Japanese male.

Findings

The authors determined that one of the subjects with an incompatible shoulder fit had a shoulder point (SP) line that was anterior to the one measured on the average dummy. The other subject had a smaller shoulder angle than the average dummy. To effectively measure the wearer’s shoulder characteristics, the authors devised a new measuring device that can measure the shoulder angle and its degree of forward thrust. With this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

Originality/value

The authors devised a new measuring device to assess shoulder angle and forward thrust, qualities that previously could not be measured without three-dimensional analysis. Using this device, it was possible to understand the wearers’ shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.

Citation

Kim, K., Innami, N., Takatera, M., Narita, T., Kanazawa, M. and Kitazawa, Y. (2017), "Individualized male dress shirt adjustments using a novel method for measuring shoulder shape", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 29 No. 2, pp. 215-225. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-02-2016-0011