Prelims

Half Title Page

Tourism Social Science Series  Volume 26

Fashion and Tourism

Series Title Page

Tourism Social Science Series

Series Editor: Jafar Jafari

University of Wisconsin-Stout, USA Email: jafari@uwstout.edu

Volume Editor: Juergen Gnoth

University of Otago, New Zealand

The books in Tourism Social Science Series (TSSSeries) are intended to systematically and cumulatively contribute to the formation, embodiment and advancement of knowledge in the field of tourism.

The TSSSeries' multidisciplinary framework and treatment of tourism includes application of theoretical, methodological, and substantive contributions from such fields as anthropology, business administration, ecology, economics, geography, history, hospitality, leisure, planning, political science, psychology, recreation, religion, sociology, transportation, etc., but it significantly favors state-of-the-art presentations, works featuring new directions, and especially the cross-fertilization of perspectives beyond each of these singular fields. While the development and production of this book series is fashioned after the successful model of Annals of Tourism Research, the TSSSeries further aspires to assure each theme a comprehensiveness possible only in book-length academic treatment. Each volume in the series is intended to deal with a particular aspect of this increasingly important subject, thus to play a definitive role in the enlarging and strengthening of the foundation of knowledge in the field of tourism, and consequently to expand the frontiers of knowledge into the new research and scholarship horizons ahead.

Published TSSSeries Titles:

Volume 25: Space Tourism: The Elusive Dream, Erik Cohen and Sam Spector

Volume 24: Authenticity & Tourism: Materialities, Perceptions, Experiences, Jillian M. Rickly and Elizabeth S. Vidon

Volume 23: Social Conflict and Harmony: Tourism in China's Multi-ethnic Communities, Liping Cai

Volume 22: Tourism Research Paradigms: Critical and Emergent Knowledges, Ana María Munar and Tazim Jamal

Volume 21: Tourism Education: Global Issues and Trends, Pauline J. Sheldon and Cathy H. C. Hsu

Volume 20: Tourism Research Frontiers: Beyond the Boundaries of Knowledge, Donna Chambers and Tijana Rakić

Volume 19: Geographies of Tourism: European Research Perspectives, Julie Wilson and Salvador Anton Clavé

Volume 18: Tourism Social Media: Transformations in Identity, Community and Culture, Ana María Munar, Szilvia Gyimóthy and Liping Cai

Volume 17: Culture and Society in Tourism Contexts, A-M. Nogués-Pedregal

Volume 16: The Discovery of Tourism Economics, Larry Dwyer

Volume 15: The Study of Tourism: Foundations from Psychology, Philip Pearce

Volume 14: Modern Mass Tourism, Julio R. Aramberri

Volume 13: The Discovery of Tourism, Stephen L. J. Smith.

Volume 12: The Sociology of Tourism: European Origins and Developments, Graham M.S. Dann and Giuli Liebman Par.

Endorsements

In this publication, the convergence of fashion and tourism is explored from an academic perspective, shedding light on the intricate linkages and reciprocal influences between these two vibrant industries. By delving into their shared history spanning over two centuries, the different authors present a compelling hypothesis that unveils the profound impact they have had on each other. Through parallel analysis in the different chapters, readers gain a deeper understanding of the symbiotic relationship between fashion and tourism, and how their collaborative actions shape and reflect contemporary societies worldwide. This insightful work is a must-read for anyone seeking a comprehensive exploration of the dynamic interplay between these global influential forces.

Eduardo Santander, PhD Executive Director European Travel Commission

The topics of fashion and tourism have many traits in common. The academic world has yet studied them mostly separately. The important contribution of this volume lies in its ability to show their joint effect on social life. Both fashion and tourism seek to sell dreams and both rely on brand image in order to gain recognition and attract the attention of consumers. The “parallel stories” that are carefully told in this volume constitute a significant understanding of how two big industries have shaped our taste and behaviour for the last two centuries.

Paula von Wachenfeldt, PhD Associate Professor in Fashion Studies Stockholm University

Title Page

Tourism Social Science Series  Volume 26

Fashion and Tourism

Parallel Stories

Maria Gravari-Barbas

Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, France

Nadzeya Sabatini

Gdansk University of Technology, Poland and USI-Università della Svizzera italiana, Switzerland

United Kingdom – North America – Japan – India – Malaysia – China

Copyright Page

Emerald Publishing Limited

Emerald Publishing, Floor 5, Northspring, 21-23 Wellington Street, Leeds LS1 4DL

First edition 2024

Editorial matter and selection © 2024 Maria Gravari-Barbas and Nadzeya Sabatini.

Individual chapters © 2024 The authors.

Published under exclusive licence by Emerald Publishing Limited.

Reprints and permissions service

Contact: www.copyright.com

No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without either the prior written permission of the publisher or a licence permitting restricted copying issued in the UK by The Copyright Licensing Agency and in the USA by The Copyright Clearance Center. Any opinions expressed in the chapters are those of the authors. Whilst Emerald makes every effort to ensure the quality and accuracy of its content, Emerald makes no representation implied or otherwise, as to the chapters' suitability and application and disclaims any warranties, express or implied, to their use.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN: 978-1-80262-976-7 (Print)

ISBN: 978-1-80262-975-0 (Online)

ISBN: 978-1-80262-977-4 (Epub)

ISSN: 1571-5043 (Series)

List of Figures and Tables

About the Contributors

Konstantina K. Agoraki is an Adjunct Lecturer of the Department of Tourism Studies, University of Piraeus (Greece). Dr Agoraki holds a PhD (2017) from the University of Piraeus, Department of Business Administration, and a Master's Degree (2011) in International Economics and Finance from the Athens University of Economics and Business, Greece. Her research interests include various areas of business management, such as knowledge management, technological innovation, competitive advantage, organizational performance, sustainability, and change management.

Sandra Biondo, a PhD candidate at University of Paris1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, is a Lecturer and an academic advisor at Sciences Po Paris (France). Her research interests, based on transnational luxury fashion brands, include public–private partnerships, systems of urban governance, territorial marketing, and urban branding policies. Her works are at the crossroads between cultural and urban geography. Sandra's academic research specifically focuses on the links between cultural and creative industries and urban heritage policies.

Lorenzo Cantoni graduated in Philosophy and holds a PhD in Education and Linguistics. He is a full Professor at USI – Università della Svizzera italiana (Lugano, Switzerland), Faculty of Communication, Culture and Society, where he is Director of the Institute of Digital Technologies for Communication. His research interests are where communication, education, and new media overlap, ranging from computer-mediated communication to usability, from eLearning to eTourism and digital fashion, and from ICT4D to eGovernment. He is USI's Pro-rector for Education and Students' experience.

Erina Cavalli is a stylist for photography and an educator in fashion and luxury based in Paris. Her experience of teaching at international level spans more than 10 years. Cavalli consistently intersects fashion, luxury, art, design, and architecture. She currently teaches in Paris at Paris1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, Sup de Pub where she coordinates a Master in Luxury and Marketing, the Paris School of Luxury, ESMOD, INSEEC, and ISG. She has previously Lectured at Istituto Marangoni in Paris, the Amirkabir University of Technology of Tehran, the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome, and the European Communication School in London.

Georgios A. Deirmentzoglou is a Lecturer in Business Administration at Neapolis University Pafos. He holds a PhD degree in Business Administration from the University of Piraeus, a Master's degree in Business Administration – Total Quality Management (MBA-TQM), and a Bachelor's degree in Industrial Management and Technology from the University of Piraeus. In addition, he has studied film and music production. His research interests include entrepreneurship, strategic management, sustainable development, creative industries, culture, and e-commerce.

Triana Rosalina Dewi is a Lecturer at Trisakti Institute of Tourism Jakarta, Indonesia. She gained a Bachelor's degree in Economics at Universitas Dr. Moestopo and a Master's degree in Management at Muhammadiyah University, Jakarta, Indonesia. Her research focuses on leveraging human capital in the hospitality industry and developing tourism products in tourism villages. In addition, she is involved in several community development projects in Indonesia and conducts studies on employee well-being, the leisure industry, and local and regional entrepreneurship.

Gianluigi Di Giangirolamo holds a PhD in Contemporary History. He is an Adjunct Professor of Social History of Fashion at Paris1 Panthéon-Sorbonne and at the University of Bologna. His research interests are history of contemporary society, history of cultural policies and institutions, fashion heritage, and tourism. He is member of the EIREST – Interdisciplinary research team on tourism at the University of Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne and of the international research center, Culture, Fashion Communication, at the University of Bologna.

Maria Gravari-Barbas is an architect and social geographer. She is a Professor at Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne University. She is the Director of the EIREST, a multidisciplinary research team dedicated to tourism studies, with main focus on cultural heritage, development, and urban-tourism evolutions. Since 2009, she is the Director of the UNESCO Chair of Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne University and the coordinator of the UNITWIN network, Tourism, Culture, Development. She is the Chair of the Self Steering Committee of Cultural Heritage of Una Europa and of the Joint Doctoral Committee of the PhD on Cultural Heritage of the European University Alliance Una Europa.

Ulrike Gretzel is a Senior Fellow at the Center of Public Relations, University of Southern California (USA) and serves as Director of Research at Netnografica. She received her PhD in Communications from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. She is a fellow of the International Academy for the Study of Tourism. Her research focuses on technology-mediated communication and persuasion in digital media. Her expertise spans the design and evaluation of intelligent systems, as well as the development and implications of artificial intelligence. Dr Gretzel has published over 100 peer-reviewed journal articles.

Faruq Ibnul Haqi is a PhD candidate in Urban and Regional Planning at the University of South Australia. His research focus is the role of urban political leadership in the formulation of urban policy in Indonesian metropolitan cities. Faruq holds a Master's of Urban and Regional Planning from the University of South Australia, Adelaide, Australia, and he has a BEng in Architecture from UII Yogyakarta, Indonesia. His professional and research interest is in urban development and policy, and in urban leadership.

Sandra Krim is a PhD researcher and Lecturer in marketing and communications at Sorbonne School of Management and is a member of the PRISM Research Center from Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne University. Her PhD thesis explores the influence of high culture on the symbolic value of luxury fashion brands, with a focus on their artification strategies. Her research and teaching interests lie in luxury brand management and the brand culture of luxury fashion houses. Sandra studied at the Sorbonne University and holds an MBA in Global Fashion Management from the Institut Français de la Mode (Paris, France).

Sophie Kurkdjian got her PhD in History from the University of Paris1 Panthéon-Sorbonne. She is currently an Assistant Professor at the American University of Paris where she teaches social and cultural history of fashion, and Associate Researcher at the IHTP-CNRS. In 2021, she published Géopolitique de la mode (Ed. du Cavalier Bleu) and co-published Au cœur des maisons de couture. Une histoire sociale des ouvrières de la mode (1880–1950) (Ed. de l'Atelier).

Fitri Utami Ningrum is an Indonesian cultural activist. She currently pursues a Master's degree in Archeology at the University of Indonesia. She focuses on assisting the community in developing and promoting tourism potential in rural areas through Pesona Desa Nusantara. She also initiated CAVENTER Indonesia (Culture, Art, Community Development, and Ecotourism Center) together with tour operators around Indonesia. She obtained her Bachelor's degree in Marketing Management at University of Indonesia. With the experiences gained from the community empowerment activities, she created coaching initiatives for community/village focusing on heritage, culture, and rural development.

Andreas Papatheodorou is a Professor in industrial and spatial economics, with emphasis on tourism at the University of the Aegean, Greece, where he also directs the MSc program in Strategic Management of Tourism Destinations and Hospitality Enterprises and the Laboratory for Tourism Research and Studies. He is the Editor-in-Chief of the Journal of Air Transport Studies and an Associate Editor of Annals of Tourism Research. His research interests include aviation and tourism, tourism and regional development, and economics of cultural tourism.

Mario Paris is a researcher in the field of urban planning and a Lecturer at the Università degli Studi di Bergamo. He studies the conditions of the European urban regions and the role of services in their evolution, together with the impact of luxury in the social, economic, and spatial transformation of the city. He is the Editor of the book Making Prestigious Places (Routledge, 2018) and of the chapter “Luxury as a Driver for New Urban Identities in Milan: Spatial Practices, Geographies, and Open Questions”.

Puspita Ayu Permatasari is of Indonesian origin. She is a Lecturer/researcher in digital transformation in cultural tourism at Breda University of applied sciences (BUas), The Netherlands. She obtained a PhD degree in 2022 from USI-Università della Svizzera italiana in Switzerland by conducting research focusing on the linkage and the communication model of UNESCO intangible heritage of Indonesian Batik textiles with global fashion and tourism. She has a Bachelor's degree from the University of Indonesia, majoring in Chinese Studies and Master's degree in the Management of Natural/Cultural Heritage from IREST – Paris1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, France.

Nadzeya Sabatini holds a PhD in Communication Sciences. She is an Assistant Professor in Digital Transformation at Gdansk University of Technology (Gdansk, Poland). Nadzeya is a Senior Lecturer and academic coordinator of MSc in Digital Fashion Communication, double degree between USI-Università della Svizzera italiana, Switzerland, and Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, France. She is a group leader in Digital Fashion Communication Research at the Institute of Digital Technologies for Communication (USI). Nadzeya's research interests are in the digital transformation of communication in tourism and fashion.

Claudio Visentin is a professional journalist. He mainly investigates the history of Italian tourism, package tours, and international guidebooks. On this topic, he has published Il Canton Ticino visto dagli altri. L'immagine del territorio nelle guide turistiche internazionali (2007) and Il turismo contemporaneo. Cultura e mondo dell'impresa – Visentin C. (2002). Claudio is the Lecturer of the course, Cultural History of Tourism, at the Università della Svizzera italiana in Lugano, Switzerland. He has been General Secretary of the International Commission for the History of Travel and Tourism, affiliated with the International Committee of Historical Sciences.

Eirini Vlassi is a Lecturer in Neapolis University Pafos in the field of management and marketing of tourism business and tourism destinations. She is also an Adjunct Lecturer, teaching Strategic Tourism Management, in the MBA in Aviation and Tourism Management offered by the Frankfurt University of Applied Sciences, Germany, in collaboration with the University of the Aegean. She holds a PhD from the University of the Aegean. Her research interests include destination marketing and branding and collaborative initiatives in destination marketing.

Daniel William Mackenzie Wright is a Senior Lecturer in tourism. He has a wide interest in the study and research of tourism. His career research began with a PhD exploring the role of tourism in post-disaster situations. More recently, he has turned his attention to the tourism futures field. The study of tourism futures has the potential to engage wider audiences. Importantly, highlighting tourism's potential role in the face of many global challenges and opportunities, Dr Wright has presented at international conferences and continues to be an active educator and publisher in tourism-related subject areas.

Acknowledgments

We are immensely grateful to Jafar Jafari, for his confidence and his tremendous support in meticulously editing the volume. We are also deeply grateful to Juergen Gnoth, who provided valuable advice on how to improve the volume. Our thanks also go to Lorenzo Cantoni, Tekila Harley Nobile, and Elide Garbani-Nerini for their help in polishing our introductory chapter. We thank our authors, colleagues, and friends who joined us during this journey of exploring multiple inspiring connections between fashion and tourism, the two domains we are passionate about.