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The moisture vapour permeability properties of a series of almost similar polyesterviscose (P/V) and polyester-cotton (P/C) blended fabrics are investigated. The water vapour transport rate greatly differs depending on the principle of the test methods, even when other parameters are nearly identical, such as air permeability, areal density, porosity and thickness. The water absorption characteristics of fibre seem to be the most important in determining the overall water vapour transport rate. Substitution of polyester for viscose and cotton in P/V and P/C blended fabrics respectively, reduces the water transport rate of the fabrics in a long term method. It is found that the P/C blended fabrics show greater water vapour transport than the corresponding P/V fabrics when a long term test method is used; however, the P/V fabrics show relatively higher water vapour permeability than the P/C fabrics when short duration tests are carried out by using the Permetest and moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR) cell methods

Mechanical properties of 100% polyester and polyester-viscose (P/V) blended yarns produced from polyester fibres which vary in denier and cross-sectional shape have been analyzed. It is observed that fibre fineness and cross-sectional shape play a significant role in the translation of fibre properties to the respective yarn properties. As the fibre linear density decreases, fibre strength translation efficiency increases. In the case of trilobal fibre, translation efficiency is observed to be lower, but yarn breaking elongation is higher in comparison to the corresponding circular fibre. Scalloped oval fibre contributes more towards yarn strength and elongation versus the equivalent circular and tetraskelion fibres. In the P/V blended form, a decrease in yarn tenacity does not affect fibre fineness, but is substantially influenced by changes in the fibre profile. Contribution of broken viscose fibres (comparatively weaker component) at the point of actual breaking of yarn, i.e. Z-value, is altered depending on the polyester fibre profile, which is higher in trilobal and scalloped oval fibres in comparison to the corresponding circular ones, but the role of fibre linear density in this regard is rendered insignificant.

This paper aims to deal with the thermal resistance of multilayer nonwovens. The effect of fibre denier, cross-sectional shape and positioning within the layers were analysed with respect to the thermal resistance. Moreover, effect of compression on thermal resistance of the multilayer nonwoven structure have also be studied.

The study involves multiple layering of thermal bonded nonwoven webs and the effect of fibre denier and positioning of different nonwovens from the hot plate. To avoid the increase in thermal resistance because of the air gaps between layers, the nonwovens were enclosed within an acrylic frame to compress them to a thickness of 12 mm. Compressional behaviour of the nonwovens were tested at a rate of 5 mm/min with peak compressive load of 50 N. Multilayer nonwoven assemblies were tested for thermal resistance with compressive pressure of 3.5 gf/cm² and compared with that tested at zero pressure.

In the study, three-layered nonwoven structure, provided better thermal resistance than their single component counterparts. The structural characteristic of the multilayer nonwovens affected the conductive, convective and the radiative heat transfer. In a multi-layer nonwoven, the top most layer should have the finest fibre as possible. Second preference may be given to the middle and followed by bottom layers in terms of fibre fineness. However, fine solid fibres performed poorly in terms of compression and recovery resulting in poor thermal resistance under compressive load.

The experimental approach of controlling thickness while evaluating the thermal resistance will help in nullify the effect of air gaps between the layer interface, thus focussing on the effect of fibre denier and the positioning of nonwovens. This paper also discusses the unique properties of fine solid fibre and hollow fibres and their role in providing better thermal insulation for extreme cold weather applications.

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after laundering. With the increase in pick density fabric thickness, compression and compressibility increases up to a certain extent. Coarser filament textured yarn fabric have higher thickness, compression and compressibility than that of finer filament textured yarn fabrics. Heat‐set fabrics possess higher thickness, compression and compressibility than the grey textured yarn fabrics. However, fabric compressional recovery and resiliency are mainly influenced by the fabric pick density rather than the effect of heat‐setting and filament fineness of constituent textured yarns. On laundering, fabric thickness, compression and compressibility improve particularly for the fabric of lower pick density. The effect of laundering is marginal on fabric compressional recovery and resiliency.

The heat transfer properties play significant roles in the thermal comfort of the clothing products. The purpose of this paper is to find the relationship between heat transfer properties and fabrics' structure, yarn properties and predict the effective thermal conductivity of single layer woven fabrics by a parametric mathematical model.

First, the weave unit was divided into four types of element regions, including yarn overlap regions, yarn crossing regions, yarn floating regions and pore regions. Second, the number and area proportion of each region were calculated respectively. Some formulas were created to calculate the effective thermal conductivity of each element region based on serial model, parallel model or series–parallel mixing model. Finally, according to the number and area proportion of each region in weave unit, the formulas were established to calculate the fabric overall effective thermal conductivity in thickness direction based on the parallel models.

The influences of yarn spacing, yarn width, fabric thickness, the compressing coefficients of air layers and weave type on the effective thermal conductivity were further discussed respectively. In this model, the relationships between the effective thermal conductivity and each parameter are some polynomial fitting curves with different orders. Weave type affects the change of effective thermal conductivity mainly through the numbers of different elements and their area ratios.

In this model, the formulas were created respectively to calculate the effective thermal conductivity of each element region and whole weave unit. The serial–parallel mixing characteristics of yarn and surrounding air are considered, as well as the compression coefficients of air layers. The results of this study can be further applied to the optimal design of mixture fabrics with different warp and filling yarn densities or different yarn thermal properties.

The objective of this paper is to report the values of thermal resistance in natural and convection heat transfer modes through woven fabrics. An instrument developed on the principle of the guarded hot plate method will be discussed. The instrument is precise up to two decimal places and the accuracy is approximately 14%. The fabrics were tested in a natural as well as forced convective mode with air velocity of 1m/s flowing parallel over the fabric surface. It was observed that the thermal resistance of the fabric in forced convection is less than that in the natural convective mode.

The thermal resistance can be predicted with the help of a statistical model when all the constructional parameters are taken together. A polynomial equation consisting of linear, interaction and square terms based on the response surface modelling was developed for both the conditions of heat flow. It was observed that as all constructional parameters, such as warp and weft count, thread spacing, thickness, fabric weight and porosity are taken as variables, the response function; namely thermal resistance can be predicted with a high coefficient of determination and less average error.

This chapter offers an overview of the applications of artificial intelligence (AI) in the textile industry and in particular, the textile colouration and finishing industry. The advent of new technologies such as AI and the Internet of Things (IoT) has changed many businesses and one area AI is seeing growth in is the textile industry. It is estimated that the AI software market shall reach a new high of over US$60 billion by 2022, and the largest increase is projected to be in the area of machine learning (ML). This is the area of AI where machines process and analyse vast amount of data they collect to perform tasks and processes. In the textile manufacturing industry, AI is applied to various areas such as colour matching, colour recipe formulation, pattern recognition, garment manufacture, process optimisation, quality control and supply chain management for enhanced productivity, product quality and competitiveness, reduced environmental impact and overall improved customer experience. The importance and success of AI is set to grow as ML algorithms become more sophisticated and smarter, and computing power increases.

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.

Tensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.

It is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.

Since seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.

The study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the use of steam in order to replace air in the production of spun-like textured yarns. Further, this paper analyse the effect of production speed on process and textured yarn properties.

An existing air-jet texturing machine was modified to supply either air or steam to the texturing nozzle. Using standard commercial nozzles, both air-jet and steam-jet textured yarns were manufactured by varying production speed.

It can be concluded that steam can be used as an alternative fluid for air in making spun-like textured yarns. Results show that yarn parameters for steam-jet texturing show a similar trend to those of air-jet texturing relative to the production speed. Further, sewing threads made from steam-jet textured yarns showed good sewability up to the speeds of 350 m/min.

Only the effect of production speed on process and yarn parameters is discussed in this paper. Production speed was limited to 350 m/min due to machine constraints.

Steam is more economical than air to manufacture spun-like textured yarn at commercial pressures such as 8 bar. Steam-jet textured yarns could be used for commercial applications such as sewing threads at competitive speeds. Further, steam could be generated using sustainable and renewable fuel sources such as biomass.

This research introduced steam as an alternative fluid for air in manufacturing spun-like textured yarns.

The aim of the present study is to investigate the effect of fabric weave structure on air permeability and its relation with the garment ventilation.

For this purpose, five groups of cotton/polyester shirting fabrics with plain, T2/1, T2/2, T3/1 and T3/3 weave structures were studied. In order to evaluate ventilation, the garment samples were prepared in different sizes, so that the thickness of the air gap formed between the garment and the body simulator varies by zero, 1.5, 1.2 and 2.9 cm. The effect of wind and its speed (1, 2 and 3 m/s) on clothing ventilation has also been evaluated.

The results indicated that the rise of wind speed and air gap thickness, due to the increased convective heat transfer, would diminish the air gap temperature of clothing and improves its ventilation. In addition, the fabric weave pattern influences the air ability to pass through the fabric, thus affecting the ventilation capability of the garment.

Garments made of fabrics with higher structural firmness, such as the plain, not only have lower air permeability, but also has weaker ventilation capability.