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1 – 7 of 7Nazanin Ansari and Sybille Krzywinski
This paper aims to introduce a process chain spanning from scanned data to computer-aided engineering and further required simulations up to the subsequent production. This…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to introduce a process chain spanning from scanned data to computer-aided engineering and further required simulations up to the subsequent production. This approach has the potential to reduce production costs and accelerate the procedure.
Design/methodology/approach
A parametric computer-aided design (CAD) model of the flyer wearing a wingsuit is created enabling easy changes in its posture and the wingsuit geometry. The objective is to track the influence of geometry changes in a timely manner for following simulation scenarios.
Findings
At the final stage, the two-dimensional (2D) pattern cuts were derived from the developed three-dimensional (3D) wingsuit, and the results were compared with the conventional ones used in the first stages of the wingsuit development.
Originality/value
Proposing a virtual development process chain is challenging; apart from the fact that the CAD construction of a wingsuit flyer – in itself posing a complicated task – is required at a very early stage of the procedure.
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Kanika Jolly, Sybille Krzywinski, PVM Rao and Deepti Gupta
Whilst motorcycling is an activity of pleasure in most parts of the world, in India, it is a regular mode of commuting. The number of registered motorized two wheelers increased…
Abstract
Purpose
Whilst motorcycling is an activity of pleasure in most parts of the world, in India, it is a regular mode of commuting. The number of registered motorized two wheelers increased at the rate of 14.7 percent during the year 2016-2017 to reach the figure of 20.19m in 2018. But, with this increase, the number of motorcycle road accidents is also increasing. Uncomfortable riding clothing is one of the major factors for motorcycle rider’s muscular fatigue, which might at times lead to serious accidents. No kinematic human models have been, so far, used for the design of protective, functional and aesthetic looking products, and the result is, hence, a compromised fit that is not protective or comfortable. The purpose of this paper is to develop virtual 3D human body models for specific postures of a motorcycle rider.
Design/methodology/approach
Kinematic analysis of a motorcycle rider was conducted to identify typical body postures obtained by the motorcycle rider while mounting and riding a motorcycle. The identified body postures were mapped on a virtual parametric human model to obtain digital model of a motorcycle rider. 3D garment patterns for jacket and trouser were developed on all the four body postures. 3D patterns were flattened out to get 2D flat patterns that were compared and analyzed, and appropriate pattern shapes from each of the four postures were selected. Virtual fit analysis was conducted for the finally garment.
Findings
It is well established that a static 2D anthropometry fails to accurately capture the dimensions of complex 3D human form, yielding poor garment fit. Therefore, in this study, virtual, 3D human body models were developed in selected dynamic poses. Garment patterns developed in 3D have the typical movement inbuilt in them; hence, they offer more comfort and ease of motion to the wearer.
Originality/value
The identification of typical body postures of motorcycle rider has not been done before. The CAD models developed in the study can be used for the generation of ergonomic garment patterns for the motorcycle riders.
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Hassan Saeed and Sybille Krzywinski
Sewing is the most widely used and preferred method for manufacturing clothing products for extreme weather conditions and other industrial insulation systems. Multiple layers of…
Abstract
Purpose
Sewing is the most widely used and preferred method for manufacturing clothing products for extreme weather conditions and other industrial insulation systems. Multiple layers of functional fabrics in combination with insulation materials are used to thermally insulate precious body heat from its surrounding cold environment. The sewing process fixes the insulation material between the fabric layers. During conventional sewing, the insulation material is compressed along the stitch line. With the compression of the insulation material, entrapped air is forced to leave the insulation material internal structure, and heat loss occurs along the entire length of the stitch line. It results in the deterioration of thermal properties of the end product along the stitch line.
Design/methodology/approach
The amount of air, which is a decisive factor for thermal properties of any insulation system, was investigated at the level of a unit stitch length of a lockstitch. Conventional microscopy methods are not suitable to study the compression along the stitch line. With the help of X-ray tomography, the three-dimensional data of a stitch was taken and studied to measure the volume of air. The samples were prepared with conventional lockstitch sewing and a newly developed innovative sewing method “Spacer Stitching.” The results are compared with each other in terms of the amount of air present in a unit stitch length.
Findings
Calculations based on X-ray tomography images of lockstitch and spacer stitch revealed that, in the case of lockstitch, a unit stitch has a 15% of its volume made up of material and 85% of its volume by air. In comparison, the spacer stitch with the same sewing and fabric parameters has a material volume of 4.6 % and an air volume of 95.4% in a single stitch.
Practical implications
The research can positively improve the thermal properties of sewn material made for insulating purposes of conventional clothing as well as of industrial insulations.
Originality/value
There is no literature available which investigates and calculates the amount of air and material present along with a stitch line.
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Ei Chaw Hlaing, Sybille Krzywinski and Hartmut Roedel
The aim of the research is the development of 3D virtual models of lower female bodies from scanned data of different body types for computer‐aided 3D product development of…
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of the research is the development of 3D virtual models of lower female bodies from scanned data of different body types for computer‐aided 3D product development of loose‐fitting garments.
Design/methodology/approach
In order to develop reproducible construction of fashionable/functional outerwear (e.g. ladies’ trousers) on the basis of generated scalable 3D virtual female models, 3D‐CAD methods have to be developed. In doing so, the variable parameters are predefined and the block pattern of a trouser design can be modified by changing the parameters for the variety of trouser models. Two‐dimensional (2D) pattern pieces are then automatically generated and modified if necessary. According to morphological changes, the whole process proceeds automatically up to 2D patterns and thus corresponds to a grading in 3D.
Findings
The generated 3D virtual model and trouser design corresponding to a basic design or block pattern can be offered to the garment industry. The task of the designer or stylist is only to define the intended pattern design on the created trouser shell. Therefore, the approach is also very feasible for pattern makers who are not skilled in computer technology. The goal of this research is to provide an indispensable basis for an effective new technology for the construction of fit‐relevant, loose‐fitting garments, and in doing so, further accelerate the textile chain.
Originality/value
This paper provides methods of creating 3D garment design as well as grading in 3D, based on scalable virtual models of female lower bodies, which are worked out using a new German size designation system. Since the data processed for the generation of virtual models derives from direct scan data from women (taking into account different body types), the targeted German population is reflected.
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Hartmut Rödel, Andrea Schenk, Claudia Herzberg and Sybille Krzywinski
Shows the necessity of developing powerful 3D CAD‐systems for the textile and clothing industry. The connection between 2D and 3D CAD‐systems enables the user to prepare a…
Abstract
Shows the necessity of developing powerful 3D CAD‐systems for the textile and clothing industry. The connection between 2D and 3D CAD‐systems enables the user to prepare a collection more quickly and accurately. Applications could be the drape behaviour of the fabric, the deformational behaviour of fabrics when covering defined surfaces and also technical textiles.
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Hartmut Rödel, Volker Ulbricht, Sybille Krzywinski, Andrea Schenk and Petra Fischer
In this paper a model is presented for the calculation by approximation of a drape test standardized in the textile industry. As woven fabric is of low thickness compared with the…
Abstract
In this paper a model is presented for the calculation by approximation of a drape test standardized in the textile industry. As woven fabric is of low thickness compared with the other dimensions, the fabric can be considered to be a two‐dimensional continuum. For the simulation model, the shell theory is taken as a basis. Simulating the drape behaviour presents a geometrically non‐linear field problem with considerable displacements.
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Claudia Herzberg, Sybille Krzywinski and Hartmut Rödel
Complex material requirements for high‐technology applications increasingly demand the use of hybrid material structures with properties tailored to the lines of loading…
Abstract
Complex material requirements for high‐technology applications increasingly demand the use of hybrid material structures with properties tailored to the lines of loading. Textile‐reinforced multilayer composite structures are particularly suitable for the production of component structures in an optimised lightweight construction. In the loading case, however, delaminating phenomena occur between the individual layers due to the low interlaminar shear strength. The appropriate techniques and machines of the ready‐made‐clothing technology allow the specific sewing‐up of the semifinished textile products into a three‐dimensionally reinforced multilayer composite structure; the setting of a load‐adapted and failure‐tolerant characteristic of properties being possible in the z‐direction through a versatile variation of sewing parameters. Moreover, the sewing technology makes possible a ready‐made‐clothing‐technological preassembly of components of semi‐finished products, and thus can perform position‐fixing functions in the consolidation of the composites. The ready‐made‐clothing process is divided into sub‐processes like product development, preparation of cutting, cutting, connecting and forming as well as packaging and shipping. The technical procedures and machines applied are chosen from economic aspects. Besides the large number of pieces, extreme thickness of the textile products of up to 20 mm and the required sewing precision demand precise and reproducible manufacturing processes.