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This paper presents an analysis of several issues that are preponderant for the work-wear design. The purpose of this paper is to create a prototype of a women’s base upper body garment, based on the information gathered.

All the necessary information was collected through questionnaires, anthropometric measurements and evaluation of compression forces between the different prototypes.

It was possible to conclude that to create a better design some alterations need to be made in the standard base pattern design, such as measurements across the back length.

Despite the fact that these design changes have a great impact on the stretch ability and on the compression forces, using softer fabric, such as cotton, is always better for an increased comfort. However, in more professional situation where these fabrics should not be used, these design changes can really make a difference.

A test with a set of compression sensors showed that the simple alteration of one measurement in the design of the base patterns highly reduces the compression forces.

These simple alterations allow the garments to adjust to the users’ needs, promoting higher levels of comfort and lower levels of limitations of movement.

The designs presented in this paper can be easily adapted to a variety of garments, such as jackets or dresses, both for leisure or professional activities.

The purpose of this paper is to identify common issues among commercial body size charts, and to propose a sizing improvement methodology without changing the number of sizes in the range. One goal is to equalize the number of people accommodated by each size within the range, and to propose a way to evaluate the effectiveness of the improvement.

The proposed method consists of three phases: (Phase I) identify target population; (Phase II) analysis of existing size charts; and (Phase III) improvement of the initial size chart. Phase III is the key process, which includes repeated manipulation of intersize intervals of the three primary measurements (chest, waist and hip) for improved consistency of overall and interior accommodate rates among the three measurement categories. A program was developed in RStudio® to generate trials and side-by-side bar plots for visualization of the differences in accommodate rates.

The main issue in commercial body size charts observed is the inconsistency of the interior accommodation rates among measurement categories. Some other issues include: lack of important measurements, failure to provide ranges and gaps between measurement ranges of adjacent sizes.

This paper proposed a complete work flow to improve body size charts to fix the common issues. The method integrates historic size information and new anthropometric information extracted from a national-scale sizing database (e.g. SizeUSA). The study also brought association of the secondary body measurements with primary measurements without using linear regression. Hence, information from body size charts can be more efficiently used in acquiring other size information.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the shape change of breast during movement to inform product development of bras and other female wearable products.

Using the latest 4D body scanning technology, the authors monitored the change of seven non-circumferential breast measurements, including four linear measurements (widths, depth, etc.) and three angular measurements, across nine dynamic scans of a complete gait cycle during running. A series of statistical analysis were conducted to thoroughly investigate the measurement values in dynamic states compared with values extracted from static 3D scans.

Major findings are as follows: (1) For width-underbust, chest-depth, vertical-acromion and angle ABD, more than half of the dynamic frames presents a significant difference with the static frame. (2) Width-underbust and chest-depth measured in static can underestimate the actual values under motion. (3) vertical-acromion presents a W-shaped general trend for the nine dynamic frames with peaks observed at the keyframes (i.e. when a participant's right or left knee bends the most and rises to its highest level) and lows at the intermediate frames. (4) Angle ABD and angle BAD both present an M-shaped general trend, the exact opposite of a W-shaped trend.

While 3D body scanning and motion capture systems have both contributed significantly to the study of breast, 4D body scanning incorporates the advantages of both technologies and captures the 3D surface of the body during movement at each instant moment. This is one of the first studies that adopt the new technology for apparel applications.

The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to investigate full body 3D scanning of active body poses in order to develop “watertight” digital models and half-scale dress forms to facilitate design, pattern making and fit analyses. Issues around creating a size set of scans in order to facilitate fit testing of activewear across a size range were also explored.

Researchers experimented to discover effective methods for 3D body capture in the cycling position and reconstruction of the body in a reliable way. In total, 25 cyclists were scanned and size representatives were selected from these participants. Methods of creating half-scale forms were developed that make optimum use of modern materials and technologies. Half-scale dress forms were created in two active positions in a range of sizes for fit testing and design. A set of half-scale and full-scale bike shorts in two styles were manufactured and fit tested on the half-scale forms compared to fit testing on the scan participants to test validity of this method of assessing fit.

Issues in capturing and reconstructing areas occluded in the scanning process, and reconstructing the interface with the bicycle seat were addressed. Active digital forms were developed across the size range, from which both digital avatars and physical mannequins were developed for pattern development and fit testing. The production and use of precisely half-scaled tools for garment testing was achieved and validated by comparing fit test results in active positions on the half-scale forms and on participants who were scanned to create these forms.

Design modifications for active positions to date are based on linear measurements alone, which do not define the 3D body adequately. Despite much research using body scanners, only limited data exist on the body in active poses, and the concept of creating half-scale forms by scanning fit models throughout the size range in active body positions is a novel concept. The progress made in resolving material and process experiments in creating the actual half-scale forms, and testing their suitability for fit testing provides a basis for further research aimed at developing similar dress forms for other activewear garments.

Understanding costumer requirements is a precondition for clothing design and manufacturing. A good shapewear designer should know women’s preferences for their buttock shapes before making patterns. The purpose of this paper is to figure out factors affecting the beauty of women’s buttock shapes and the effect of ethnic background to buttock shapes preference.

The approach utilized both 3D virtual models and 3D printed models to detect women’s preference for their buttock shapes. As a first stage, a two-step K-means cluster method was used to classify female buttock shapes into ten groups and these ten kinds of buttock shapes were output as 3D virtual models and printed out as 3D plastic models. In a subsequent stage, 51 Caucasians, 35 African-Americans and 49 Asians were selected to rank the models separately based on their preference and choose the factors which they thought could influence the beauty of buttock shapes. Kendall’s W coefficient was tested to help assessing the ranking results. Finally, a sample girdle was designed based on the buttock shape preferences of Asian females as an example, and was tested by a model.

Results showed some correlation between ethnicity and buttock shape preference. Both methods of presentation of the shapes were equally preferred by participants. Caucasian women preferred a full, round buttock shape, which was coordinated to other parts of the body. The attractive buttock shape as judged by Asian women was curvy, not drooping and not too big. African-American women choose buttock shapes that were very full with high buttock bumps as beautiful. A sample girdle was made based on the preferences of Asian females and it proved to perform well in creating the desired shape during the trial test.

Current research in the literature about women’s buttock beauty is based on plastic surgeons’ experiences. This study provides a novel method to analyze female’s preference for their buttock shapes; a method that can also be used for other body parts. The results can also be used as an indicator for underwear designers to improve shapewear pattern designs and for consumers to evaluate the shaping ability of shapewear.

The circular design process in contemporary fashion design, from two-dimensional (2D) sketching and pattern making to three-dimensional (3D) prototypes, can be facilitated by virtual prototyping. Virtual pressure representations on avatars provide visual and quantitative information regarding garment fit and comfort, which are particularly important for active wear. The purpose of this study is to investigate the benefits of using avatars in active poses from 3D body scans and the use of digital 3D tools for the design process and the prediction of fit of active wear.

This research initially explores virtual fit of cycling wear in active poses and compares the actual pressure values from humans with virtual pressure maps on custom avatars made from body scans in cycling poses across a range of sizes.

Similar fit results were achieved visually in both the standing and cycling poses. However, the comparisons showed no correlation between the actual and virtual pressure data. Of the 32 cases representing different combinations of the parameters of this research (four sizes, two garment types, four active poses), the differences were significant. The results suggest that, rather than providing a direct correlation with pressure values on the body, the main value of avatar data is in providing comparative visual support for fit evaluation.

The approach taken in this research, which considers the active pose and the size range, potentially contributes to the improvement of virtual fit technology, and its more effective use in apparel product development and fit evaluation.

The purpose of this paper is to analyze petite women’s body size and figure and investigate whether current petite sizing charts accurately reflect actual petit size women’s bodies. This study also categorizes petite women’s body shapes and suggests primary body measurements as a base size for each shape. The ultimate goal is to suggest fundamental body measurements for apparel companies to modify and improve their sizing.

This study used data from SizeUSA data to compare body measurements of 18-35-year-old petite women to regular women. The authors compared the results to measurement differences between petite and regular sizing charts of 14 apparel companies. Then, using the principal component analysis and cluster analysis, the authors classified petite women’s body shapes. Body measurements for each body type are contrasted with the current petite sizing charts, and then, the authors present differences as suggestions for modification and improvement of petite sizing.

Industry sizing system do not generally represent average petite size women preciously except for stature. Within the petite women, four body types were identified (top petite: 30.0 percent, bottom petite: 30.8 percent, regular petite: 23.6 percent, and plus size: 15.4 percent). Of the four groups, the ASTM D7878 generally represented the “top petite” sizing.

It is the first to analyze the industry petite sizing system utilizing population data and focus petite sizing for women aged 18-35. The authors believe this study could draw attention of the apparel industry, providing companies with ideas of how to improve their petite sizing for young women.

The three‐dimensional (3D) body scanner is an important new technology that will impact the design and production of apparel, but use of this tool is at an early stage of development. Appropriate measurement extractions from the complex 3D scans that will address the needs of apparel patternmakers are an essential part of the development process for this new tool. The paper aims to address these developments.

In this study, a method of automatically locating the side seam for torso fitting garments from 3D body scans for a variety of body types was developed and tested. The method is based on the location of center points of body depth measurements, and five different body landmarks or combinations of body landmarks were tested to determine the best choice for implementation.

Based on rankings and ratings of the results by apparel experts, a method using the average value of body depth measurements taken at about 100 locations equally spaced from the axilla to the crotch was chosen as the best solution.

Additional testing of this method and development of a method for locating the side seam for lower body garments is the next step in this research.

Identifying appropriate landmarks and body measurement extraction processes for apparel or style‐based measurements is as important as the more commonly derived anthropometric measures based on body landmarks. Landmarks such as side‐seam placement pose unique challenges that must be solved with analysis and reconstruction of style‐based data. The paper provides information on these factors.

Most apparel sizing systems are based on one or two body dimensions and rely on assumptions about proportional body relationships to project other dimensions necessary to design the garment pattern. Garments from these systems will not fit a population with large variations in body proportions. Using nonlinear optimization methods and anthropometric data of US Army women three multidimensional sizing systems were derived that are designed to provide improved fit for women from the USA, a population with much variation. These systems range from an optimized linear system with a regular grade to an unconstrained optimized system with a grade break at each size. The optimized sizing systems compare favorably with D5585‐94 in their ability to accommodate variation in the population based on a mathematical test of the aggregate loss of each system. Issues related to pattern grading, size selection, and calculation of stock keeping units are discussed.

Examines the fifteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.