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Article
Publication date: 17 July 2020

In Hwa Kim, Hyunsook Han and Su-Jeong Hwang Shin

The purpose of study is to investigate effectiveness of pattern technique in relation to the use of anthropometric references for drafting women's basic bodice patterns by…

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of study is to investigate effectiveness of pattern technique in relation to the use of anthropometric references for drafting women's basic bodice patterns by assessing characteristics of pattern formation, quantification of wearing ease on the transverse plan and actual ease distribution on body forms.

Design/methodology/approach

Three pattern drafting techniques were analyzed, which have different frequency of using direct body measurements for pattern formulation. Ease quantification and wearing ease distribution were evaluated on the two different body forms: a young female body and a heavy woman body. Women's basic bodice patterns were drafted with YUKA CAD and virtually draped on the two body forms with CLO 3D. Rapidform was used to evaluate garment appearance. Areal ease and its distribution were assessed. A deviation map was used for wrinkle analysis.

Findings

Compared to the pattern formation derived from few anthropometric references, patterns using sufficient anthropometric references provided overall better fit for the different body forms. Ease distribution without considering body arcs was found to be a cause of garment fit problems. Patterns with little or no ease caused transverse fine wrinkles and skewed side seams. Pattern techniques those used linear equations caused problems on the bust because the formulation could not reflect bust protrusions in relation to the body torso shape differences.

Originality/value

This study revealed characteristics of pattern formulae and linear equations in relation to anthropometric references and body shapes. The findings may be effective in developing algorithm of the customized pattern formation in the industry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 5 October 2010

Hyunsook Han, Yunja Nam and Su‐Jeong Hwang Shin

The purpose of this paper is to provide algorithms of the automatic landmark extraction software program that are applicable for any torso shape.

590

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to provide algorithms of the automatic landmark extraction software program that are applicable for any torso shape.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, Automatic Landmark Identification (AULID), an automatic landmark extraction software program, was developed to extract consistent landmark locations from any torso shape. A methodology of geometrical characteristics of the body surfaces around each landmark was used for the algorithms and implemented with C++. The accuracy of the AULID was tested on various torso shapes. The verification methodology consisted of mean difference (MD), mean absolute differences (MAD), and one‐way analysis of variance. Duncan test for multiple comparisons was used to evaluate the significant differences of MAD values among different torso groups. The MAD values were compared to the anthropometric survey allowable errors.

Findings

The algorithms of AULID provided both accuracy and consistency of identifying landmarks on any body torso types.

Originality/value

Most 3D body scanning systems often show landmark location errors when dealing with nonstandard body shapes. None of automatic landmark extraction software program provides consistency of identifying landmarks in various body shapes. However, algorithms of AULID, an automatic landmark extraction software program, in this study are only consistent definitions for identifying landmarks in any torso shape.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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