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Article
Publication date: 5 September 2016

Xiaofeng Yao, Jianping Wang, Susan P. Ashdown, Shunhua Luo and Hui Shi

Understanding costumer requirements is a precondition for clothing design and manufacturing. A good shapewear designer should know women’s preferences for their buttock shapes…

374

Abstract

Purpose

Understanding costumer requirements is a precondition for clothing design and manufacturing. A good shapewear designer should know women’s preferences for their buttock shapes before making patterns. The purpose of this paper is to figure out factors affecting the beauty of women’s buttock shapes and the effect of ethnic background to buttock shapes preference.

Design/methodology/approach

The approach utilized both 3D virtual models and 3D printed models to detect women’s preference for their buttock shapes. As a first stage, a two-step K-means cluster method was used to classify female buttock shapes into ten groups and these ten kinds of buttock shapes were output as 3D virtual models and printed out as 3D plastic models. In a subsequent stage, 51 Caucasians, 35 African-Americans and 49 Asians were selected to rank the models separately based on their preference and choose the factors which they thought could influence the beauty of buttock shapes. Kendall’s W coefficient was tested to help assessing the ranking results. Finally, a sample girdle was designed based on the buttock shape preferences of Asian females as an example, and was tested by a model.

Findings

Results showed some correlation between ethnicity and buttock shape preference. Both methods of presentation of the shapes were equally preferred by participants. Caucasian women preferred a full, round buttock shape, which was coordinated to other parts of the body. The attractive buttock shape as judged by Asian women was curvy, not drooping and not too big. African-American women choose buttock shapes that were very full with high buttock bumps as beautiful. A sample girdle was made based on the preferences of Asian females and it proved to perform well in creating the desired shape during the trial test.

Originality/value

Current research in the literature about women’s buttock beauty is based on plastic surgeons’ experiences. This study provides a novel method to analyze female’s preference for their buttock shapes; a method that can also be used for other body parts. The results can also be used as an indicator for underwear designers to improve shapewear pattern designs and for consumers to evaluate the shaping ability of shapewear.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 4 March 2016

Hui Shi, Jianping Wang, Xiaona Chen, Shunhua Luo and Lingxi Zhang

An improved waterproof seam production technology (ultrasonic welding-thermo adhesive tape sealing (USW-TATS)) was developed in this study. The technology will improve the…

595

Abstract

Purpose

An improved waterproof seam production technology (ultrasonic welding-thermo adhesive tape sealing (USW-TATS)) was developed in this study. The technology will improve the waterproof performance of seam which has problem resulted from needle holes and thread like seam leaking and excess shrinkage.

Design/methodology/approach

Threadless seams were produced by ultrasonic welding (USW) with coated and lamination fabric to replace the traditional sewing process in Sewing-thermo adhesive tape sealing (S-TATS). The process efficiency was evaluated by Methods-Time Measurement (MTM). Seam performance including hydrostatic pressure, shrinkage and tear force was compared among three technologies (USW, USW-TATS and S-TATS). The effect of ultrasonic welding parameters (amplitude, roller pressure and roller speed) on the USW-TATS seam performance was investigated.SEM analysis was carried out to examine the condition and morphology of the joints cross section.

Findings

It was found that waterproof performance and dimensional stability of USW-TATS seam were superior to that of S-TATS seam. Tear force and hydrostatic pressure increased firstly and then decreased with the increasing of USW parameters in UAW-TATS process. Binary regression relationships were found between the USW parameters and tear force or hydrostatic pressure. Shrinkage decreased with the increasing of roller pressure and speed.

Practical implications

Research results can be applied to predict seam performance of waterproof clothing, reduce equipment parameters setting time and enhance product quality in industry.

Originality/value

A threadless production technology (USW-TATS) was proposed to improve waterproof performance and dimensional stability of outdoor clothing seams.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 9 June 2023

Honggui Di, Yuyin Jin, Shunhua Zhou and Di Wu

The application of servo steel struts enables the active control of the excavation-induced deformation in foundation pits. However, there is currently only one design axial force…

172

Abstract

Purpose

The application of servo steel struts enables the active control of the excavation-induced deformation in foundation pits. However, there is currently only one design axial force for each servo steel strut, which requires in-situ axial force adjustments based on the experience of site engineers. The purpose of this study is to develop a method for determining the design axial forces of servo steel struts at different excavation steps.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, a hybrid method for determining the design axial forces of servo steel struts in different excavation steps was established based on the combination of the elastic foundation beam model and nonlinear optimisation.

Findings

The hybrid method is capable of providing a better set of design axial forces than the original design method. The lateral wall displacement and bending moment could be better controlled. Ordinary steel struts should be prevented from being set between servo steel struts to avoid axial force losses.

Practical implications

The axial forces of the servo steel struts at different excavation steps should be designed to achieve better deformation control effects. Moreover, a well-designed set of axial forces can also reduce the internal forces of the retaining structure.

Originality/value

The hybrid method enables the determination of the design axial forces of servo steel struts at different excavation steps, which can guide axial force adjustments in practical projects.

Details

Engineering Computations, vol. 40 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0264-4401

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 7 November 2016

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang, Chun Zhu and Yan Hong

Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the…

1123

Abstract

Purpose

Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to develop cycling clothes’ patterns and evaluate their dynamic wear comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

First, the 3D-to-2D flattening technology was applied to develop garment patterns of a cycler’s jersey T-shirt. Then, 3D animation technology was used to simulate the scene of cycling. Next, a novel pressure-measuring method was proposed to measure static and dynamic clothing pressures in a virtual environment. Finally, the collected data were used for evaluating wear comfort.

Findings

Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort noticeably improved at the front neck, side neck, upper front chest, around back neck point and front shoulder, and the front neck. Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort visibly deteriorates at the back neck, below chest, outseam, back except around back neck point and around scapula, and the around scapula area. The dynamic pressure at back neck, below front chest and shoulder fluctuate wildly throughout the whole cycling. On the contrary, the dynamic pressure at the front neck, side neck, front upper chest and at the back cause it to tend to stability during cycling.

Originality/value

The 3D virtual-reality technology was applied to simulate cycling. And a novel method was proposed to measure numerical clothing pressures for evaluating the dynamic wear comfort. The proposed method can not only quantitatively evaluate the wear comfort of cycling clothes and optimize cycling clothes’ patterns, but also can be applied to other tight garment types.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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