Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani, Salma Farooq, Quratulain Mohtashim and Hugh Gong
Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity…
Abstract
Purpose
Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity. During the process of dyeing, the dye liquor comes in contact with the substrate; the absorption of the dye liquor into the substrate will be dependent on its porosity. The concept of porosity between the yarns of fabric is a common phenomenon; however, the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the fabric.
Design/methodology/approach
In this research, ring and rotor yarns of 25/s and 30/s counts are considered as textile substrates. The porosity of yarns was determined theoretically and experimentally using the image analysis method.
Findings
It was found that theoretical porosity is independent of the yarn manufacturing method. In addition, 30/s yarn was more porous as compared with 25/s yarn having a higher pore area. Rotor yarns had higher porosity, dye fixation and K/S as compared with ring yarns. Dyeing behaviour was also dependent on the count of yarn. Specifically, 30/s yarns have higher dye fixation as compared with 25/s yarns. However, 25/s yarns were dyed with deeper shades showing higher K/S values. Also, 25/s yarns are coarser than 30/s yarns having higher diameters and cross-sectional area, thus resulting in deeper shades and higher K/S values.
Originality/value
This novel technique is based on the comparative study of the porosity of various types of yarns using the image analysis technique. This investigation shows that the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the yarn.
Details
Keywords
Quratulain Mohtashim, Muriel Rigout and Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani
Sulphur dyes provide an inexpensive medium to dye cellulosic fibres with heavy shade depths. They offer moderate to good fastness to light and wet treatments. However, owing to…
Abstract
Purpose
Sulphur dyes provide an inexpensive medium to dye cellulosic fibres with heavy shade depths. They offer moderate to good fastness to light and wet treatments. However, owing to the environmental hazard produced by the use of sodium sulphide, the practical implication of these dyes is steadily decreasing. Moreover, these dyes are prone to oxidation causing pronounced fading on exposure to laundering. This paper aims to present the green processing of sulphur dyes by using a biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics. The study also proposes after-treatments with tannin to improve the fastness properties of the dyeings.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, dyeings were produced on cotton fabric with a range of C.I. Leuco Sulphur dyes, which were reduced with sodium sulphide and glucose. Sulphur dyeings were after-treated with an environment-friendly tannin-based product (Bayprotect CL (BP)); subsequently, the after-treated samples were evaluated for colour strength, wash, light and rubbing fastness.
Findings
A novel after-treatment method was developed, which substantially improved the wash fastness of C.I. Leuco Sulphur Black 1 dyeing to ISO 105 C06/C09 washing. However, the degree of this improvement varied for the other sulphur dyes used. The surface morphology and the possible mechanisms for the improved fastness properties were also discussed.
Research limitations/implications
The effect of after-treatment was significant for improving the wash fastness of sulphur black dyeings in particular, while the effect on other colours was minor. Significant improvements were observed for light and wet rub fastness for most of the dyeings, which signifies the importance of tannins as a finishing agent.
Practical implications
It is observed that the tannin-based product, BP, is found to provide the photoprotective effect by improving the lightfastness of the dyeings. Future research may involve the exploration of various tannins as a finishing agent to sulphur dyeings.
Originality/value
This novel finishing technique is found significant for improving the wash fastness of sulphur black 1 dyeings for both the reducing systems. Improvements were also observed for light and wet rub fastnesses for most of the dyeings.
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Saira Faisal, Muhammad Ali, Sheraz Hussain Siddique and Long Lin
Pretreatment of fabric with a number of chemicals and auxiliaries is a prerequisite for inkjet printing. Owing to the rapidly increasing use of inkjet printing for textile…
Abstract
Purpose
Pretreatment of fabric with a number of chemicals and auxiliaries is a prerequisite for inkjet printing. Owing to the rapidly increasing use of inkjet printing for textile fabrics, the study of the effects of process variables on various characteristics of the resulting print has drawn considerable interest recently. The purpose of this paper is to study the effects of different variables associated with the inkjet printing process on the quality of the resulting print. Specifically, the effects of chemicals and auxiliaries used in the pretreatment of the fabric prior to printing and factors such as steaming time were studies.
Design/methodology/approach
In the present study, which forms a part of a larger study by the authors, the influence of the nature of thickener, the amounts of thickener, urea and alkali, pH of the pretreatment liquor and the duration of steaming on ink penetration into the printed fabrics and the ink spreading across the fabrics was studied. The nature of ink penetration and ink spreading are known to have pronounced effects on the quality and, in turn, the overall appearance of the resulting print. A set of experiments based on a blocked 25–1 fractional factorial design with four centre points were conducted to evaluate the role of the aforementioned five variables. Ink penetration was quantified on the basis of the principles of Kebulka-Munk theory while ink spreading was analysed by image analysis.
Findings
Detailed statistical analyses of the experimental data obtained show that different thickeners perform differently and can have a marked influence on ink penetration and ink spreading. In the case of polyacrylic acid-based thickener, changing the levels of the factors has a marked effect on ink penetration and in-turn on ink spreading. In the case of polyacrylamide (PAM)-based thickener, on the other hand, the effect of changing the levels of various factors on the ink penetration and ink spreading is considerably less pronounced. In addition, PAM treated samples exhibited better performance in terms of ink penetration and spreading.
Originality/value
This study provides useful information for textile printers and highlights the importance of selecting the right type of thickener to make the printing process and the quality of the resulting print more predictable and controllable.
Details
Keywords
Quratulain Mohtashim, Muriel Rigout and Sheraz Hussain Siddique
Sulphur dyes are the most highly consumed colourants for cellulosic substrates owing to their reasonable cost and acceptable fastness. However, the use of noxious conventional…
Abstract
Purpose
Sulphur dyes are the most highly consumed colourants for cellulosic substrates owing to their reasonable cost and acceptable fastness. However, the use of noxious conventional reducing agent, sodium sulphide and impaired wash fastness against oxidative bleaching is gradually decreasing the market of these dyes. As the need for “Green” goods and services is raising public awareness, this paper aims to use a glucose-based biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics with a range of commercial sulphur dyes. The study also proposes an aftertreatment method to improve the fastness properties of the dyeing.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper investigated the impact of a newly developed aftertreatment method on the fastness properties of dyeing. This involved the sequential application of a cationic fixing agent (Tinofix ECO) and tannin (Bayprotect CL) on the coloured fabrics and subsequent evaluation of colour strength, washing, light and rubbing fastness.
Findings
The effect of aftertreating the dyed cotton was found to significantly improve the light and wet rub fastness. The surface morphology of the dyeing remained unaffected as depicted by the absence of any finish residues.
Research limitations/implications
The protective effect of the cation–tannin aftertreatments was examined with a view to providing the necessary commercial performance; however, it was established that the dry rub fastness was either reduced or remained unaffected and the wash fastness to International Organization for Standardization 105 C09 was also marginal.
Originality/value
This finishing technique is novel and can be found useful for manufacturing sulphur-dyed products with the improved light and wet rub fastness.