A. Shams-Nateri, S.H. Amirshahi and M. Latifi
This paper presents a study of color behavior and reflectance factors of fibers in their crosssectional and longitudinal directions. In the practical field, it was demonstrated…
Abstract
This paper presents a study of color behavior and reflectance factors of fibers in their crosssectional and longitudinal directions. In the practical field, it was demonstrated that the reflectance factors and the lightness (L*) of fibers are different in their cross-sectional and longitudinal directions and the mentioned values are higher for the lateral surface. The measurement of reflectance factors of fibers' cross-sections showed that lightness and reflectance factors increase as fibers’ density increase in the measurement cell. A relationship was established between colors of fibers in two directions using the ratio of K/S values of yarns in cross-sectional and the longitudinal directions at different wavelengths. In the second part of this work a neural network was applied to relate the color of fibers in the mentioned directions. Results showed an excellent prediction with the later technique.
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E. Dehnavi, A. Shams-Nateri and H. Khalili
This paper aims to focus on the absorption behaviour of single and binary mixtures of natural dyes on wool. Natural dyes are multi-components with different structures and…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to focus on the absorption behaviour of single and binary mixtures of natural dyes on wool. Natural dyes are multi-components with different structures and properties.
Design/methodology/approach
In this research, the absorption behaviour of single and binary mixtures of natural dyes was investigated on wool fibre. Study was conducted via some natural dyes, including pomegranate peel as a yellow natural dye with tannin, weld as a yellow natural dye without tannin and madder as a red natural dye without tannin. Applied mordant was alum, which was used in the pre-mordant method. Different shades were obtained by varying dye concentration in the binary mixture. The effect of tannin on absorption behaviour of binary mixture of natural dyes was investigated by spectral reflectance and colour parameters of dyed samples measurements.
Findings
Obtained results indicate that tannin affects the absorption behaviour of natural dyes in binary mixtures.
Practical implications
Because natural dyes are multi-components with different structure and properties, the study of compatibility and absorption behaviour of natural dyes in binary mixture on wool is important in applied researches.
Originality/value
The study of compatibility and absorption behaviour of binary mixture of natural dyes on wool is novel.
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Tahreem Beg, Maha Farrukh and Farhana Naeem
Reactive and direct dyes are the most frequently used dyes for cotton fabrics. Cellulosic fibers pose a great affinity toward them. However, both dyes consume large quantities of…
Abstract
Purpose
Reactive and direct dyes are the most frequently used dyes for cotton fabrics. Cellulosic fibers pose a great affinity toward them. However, both dyes consume large quantities of salts for exhaustion; these electrolytes (salt) are discharged as effluents posing environmental problems and disorders in aquatic life. Therefore, this study aims to explore alternative approaches to minimize salt consumption.
Design/methodology/approach
For this study, the combination of chitosan and keratin, being sustainable biopolymers, are used as mordants instead of salts for the cationization of 100% cotton and chief value cotton (CVC) during dyeing with direct and reactive dyes. Color strength, exhaustion rates and color fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration have been evaluated in this paper. In this research, keratin solution is applied on cotton and CVC (with the cotton to polyester ratio of 80%:20%) fabrics by pad-dry-cure, while chitosan solution has been applied with the exhaust method. The pretreated fabrics are dyed with both direct and reactive dyes with 2% and 4% depth of shade (DOS). The performance of the cationized fabrics with salt-free dyeing method was compared with the conventional dyeing.
Findings
The results of this study showed positive impact on exhaustion rates ranged from 19% to 69% of the values obtained without salt in 2% DOS and a range of 22%–47% in 4% DOS of reactive and direct dyes with treated samples. Color fastness to crocking results indicated the improvement of results by a factor of 0.5–1 after treatment and good wash fastnesses rating (4.5/5) were achieved for the chitosan-keratin treated fabrics equivalent to untreated samples. In addition, antimicrobial testing was performed on both treated and untreated fabrics of cotton and CVC. The results indicated that chitosan treated samples showed greater inhibition toward microbial activity as compared to keratin treated samples. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was used to identify the functional groups of chitosan and keratin treated fabric samples to confirm their presence. In the FTIR spectra, the chitosan was characterized by its hydroxyl, carbonyl and amide III peaks indicating the presence of chitosan and keratin was detected by the presence of primary amines. Scanning electron microscopy analysis was conducted in which it was visibly seen that the fibers have been coated with chitosan and keratin laid after being dyed.
Originality/value
For the first time, direct and reactive dyes are applied on chitosan and keratin-treated cotton and CVC to obtain multifunctional and eco-friendly fabrics.
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Abbas Hajipour, Ali Shams Nateri and Alireza Sadr Momtaz
This study aimed to use a scanner as a low-cost method for measuring the opacity of textile fabric. Textile fabrics must have specific ranges of opacity according to their uses…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aimed to use a scanner as a low-cost method for measuring the opacity of textile fabric. Textile fabrics must have specific ranges of opacity according to their uses for shirting, curtaining, etc. In this way, opacity is an important property in the textile industry. Conventionally, textile opacity is estimated using a spectrophotometer, which is an expensive method.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study a scanner was used as a low-cost method for measuring the opacity of textile fabric. The opacity was estimated by using red, green and blue (RGB) parameters of images of fabric against white and black background.
Findings
The accuracy of opacity estimation was improved by converting RGB into several color spaces. The best opacity estimation was obtained by using the XYZ color space. In addition, using a regression method, the best estimation was obtained by using a fourth-order polynomial regression with the LSLM color space.
Originality/value
The opacity of fabric has been measured by spectrophotometer, but in this study, the opacity of fabric was measured by scanner as a low cost device and also with novel and simple method. This method achieved acceptable accuracy for opacity estimation. The obtained result is comparable with spectrophotometer results.
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Mahshid Montazeri, Ali Shams Nateri and Keivan Ansari
In this article, a simple system will be presented to measure reflectance of metallic surfaces quickly and precisely based on goniospectrophotometric geometry. The paper aims to…
Abstract
Purpose
In this article, a simple system will be presented to measure reflectance of metallic surfaces quickly and precisely based on goniospectrophotometric geometry. The paper aims to discuss these issues.
Design/methodology/approach
This system works by capturing reflected light from different colored patches by digital camera and with the knowledge of spectral power distribution of light source and defined observer, reflection of each sample can be reproduced. By fixing the light source, the position of the detector would be eliminated to four angles of observation.
Findings
This method can achieve acceptable reconstruction accuracy for metallic samples. This approach confirmed repeatability and practicality of the simple imaging acquisition to replace spectral reflectance measurement devices in different viewing angles.
Originality/value
The reflectance of metallic samples has been measured at several angles such as 20°, 45°, 75° and 110° from specular reflection. A simple system was used to measure multi-angle reflectance of metallic surfaces by digital camera. By suggested system can be measured the reflectance without contact and limitation in the shape of surfaces. This method achieved acceptable reconstruction accuracy for metallic samples. This simple imaging acquisition is comparable with goniospectrophotometer for measuring multi-angle reflectance of metallic samples.
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Ali Shams Nateri and Ehsan Dehnavi
This work aims to study the effect of mordanting method as pre-mordanting (on-chrome), meta-mordanting (meta-chrome) and post-mordanting (after-chrome) on wool dyeing with madder…
Abstract
Purpose
This work aims to study the effect of mordanting method as pre-mordanting (on-chrome), meta-mordanting (meta-chrome) and post-mordanting (after-chrome) on wool dyeing with madder natural dye without tannin and pomegranates peel, as a natural dye contains tannin.
Design/methodology/approach
The woolen yarn was dyed with madder and pomegranate peel natural dyes by three methods as pre-mordant, meta-mordant and pos-mordant. The color parameters and reflectance spectra of dyed samples were analyzed by using derivative spectroscopy and the principal component analysis (PCA) techniques.
Findings
The obtained results indicate that the color difference between the samples dyed with madder by pre-mordanting, and the samples dyed by other methods is more than the color difference between the samples dyed by meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. However, the color difference between samples dyed with pomegranate peel by pre-mordanting and meta-mordanting methods is less compared to other pairs. Also, analysis of reflectance spectra and color depth (K/S) values indicate that the color depth of dyed sample with madder by pre-mordanting method is more than other dyeing methods. But, the color depth of sample dyed with pomegranate peel by post-mordanting method is less compared to other methods. The analysis of first-, second-, third- and fourth-order derivatives of reflectance spectra and the study of the first, second, third and fourth PCs of reflectance spectra indicate that the reflectance of dyed samples with madder and pomegranates peel depends on the mordanting method.
Originality/value
Evaluation of the effect of mordanting method on color and reflectance of wool dyed with madder and pomegranates peel natural dyes using derivative spectroscopy and the PCA techniques
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Wanxin Li, Fangfang An, Dawu Shu, Zengshuai Lian, Bo Han and Shaolei Cao
This study aims to elucidate the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic relationships of CI Reactive Red 24 (RR24) on cotton fabrics, achieve the recycling of inorganic salts and water…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to elucidate the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic relationships of CI Reactive Red 24 (RR24) on cotton fabrics, achieve the recycling of inorganic salts and water resources and obtain comprehensive data on color parameters, fastness and other characteristics of fabrics dyed with the recycled dyeing residual wastewater.
Design/methodology/approach
The dyeing wastewater obtained through advanced oxidation technology was used as a medium for dyeing cotton fabrics with RR24. The absorbance value of the dyeing residue served as an evaluation index, and the relevant kinetic and thermodynamic parameters were calculated based on this absorbance. The color parameters and fastness of the fabric samples were measured to compare the performance of different dyeing media.
Findings
Dyeing cotton with RR24 in both media follows pseudo-second-order kinetics. When dyeing with wastewater media, the dye adsorption in the first 45 min increased by 0.082–1.29 g/kg compared with conventional dyeing. Furthermore, the half-dyeing time was shortened by 4.19–11.99 min and the equilibrium adsorption amount was reduced by 0.277–0.302 g/kg. The adsorption of RR24 on cotton fabrics conformed to the Freundlich model. Fabrics dyed using recycled wastewater exhibit a deeper color, with reduced red light and enhanced blue light, resulting in an overall deeper apparent color.
Originality/value
These dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic properties are beneficial for comprehending and interpreting the dyeing performance and behavior of reactive dyes in dyeing wastewater. They lay a theoretical foundation for the treatment and recycling of dyeing wastewater.
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Ali Shams Nateri, Elham Hasanlou and Abbas Hajipour
This paper aims to investigate using scanner-based adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system (ANFIS), artificial neural networks (ANNs) and polynomial regression methods for…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to investigate using scanner-based adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system (ANFIS), artificial neural networks (ANNs) and polynomial regression methods for prediction of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) and dye concentrations on AgNP-treated silk fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
For estimation of the dye and AgNPs concentration using image processing, the silk fabrics were scanned under the condition of 200 pixels per inch. The red green blue (RGB) values of scanned images were obtained after applying the median filter. Then, the relationship between scanner RGB values and dye and AgNPs concentrations were obtained by using artificial intelligence methods such as ANFIS and ANNs.
Findings
The best result was achieved by the ANFIS system for calculation concentration of dye with 0.07% error and concentration of AgNPs with 0.008 (gr/l) error. The obtained results indicate that the performance of the ANFIS system method is better than the other methods.
Originality/value
Using a scanner-based artificial intelligence technique for prediction of nanosilver and dye content on silk fabric.
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Fatemeh Saberian, Mirahmad Amirshahi, Mahdi Ebrahimi and Asieh Nazemi
This paper aims to identify the dimensions of digital platforms' services quality and their impact on customers' purchase intent based on customer experience.
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to identify the dimensions of digital platforms' services quality and their impact on customers' purchase intent based on customer experience.
Design/methodology/approach
The research has a mixed method. Qualitative data is gathered by using of systematic literature review and Delphi method and quantitative data is gathered through survey of 412 experts from three well-known restaurant industry platforms. These restaurant digital platforms were Snapfood, Changal and Chelivery.
Findings
The results indicate the effect of platforms' service quality dimensions on customer hedonic and cognitive experiences. Also, the results indicate that the platforms' customers attach different priority to the various dimensions of platforms' services quality which are platform services' ease of use, platform information quality, services and products quality, platform customers interaction, platform design, platform response speed, platform services' trustiness, platform services' security and platform responsibility. Finally, the results showed that all of these dimensions have positive impact on customers' purchase intent based on their experiences.
Originality/value
The development of digital service platforms despite being new, has recently great progress, but, many dimensions of digital platforms' services quality have been not well-known yet. The present research has cleared the subject.
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Milad Bakhshi, Kambiz Heidarzadeh Hanzaee and Mirahmad Amirshahi
Shopping motivations are considered the primary stimuli for shoppers in the prepurchase stage of the customer journey. This study contributes to the understanding of how cultural…
Abstract
Purpose
Shopping motivations are considered the primary stimuli for shoppers in the prepurchase stage of the customer journey. This study contributes to the understanding of how cultural factors affect shopping motivation. This study aims to understand the effect of cultural factors on shopping motivations in Eastern culture with Islam religion.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on the approach of phenomenology, and multiple methods were performed to interpret the phenomenon of shopping motivations. To this aim, 16 observations and 18 in-depth interviews were performed for data collection, and after that, data interpretation was done.
Findings
In this study, the motivations fall into product-related and hedonic motivations which are related to shopper psychology, while environmental motivations are culturally dependent. The influence of cultural factors on the individual concept of shopping motivations was identified in this study. Nine subthemes including product selection, product quality, functional, in-store service, convenience, store environment, value shopping, self-gratifications and role-playing were identified in the categories of product-related, environmental and hedonic motivations.
Practical implications
In non-Western countries, the store environment profoundly influences shoppers’ experience. This study clearly illustrates relationships between theory and practice in grocery shopping motivations in a non-Western context. Retailers who are active in eastern Islamic countries should pay attention to the fact that cultural and contextual factors play a significant impact on the shopping motivation and behavior of these shoppers.
Originality/value
In this study, shopping motivations are not fixed in different societies, and cultural and contextual factors play a significant impact in this regard. In other words, shopping motivations are fluid, and cultural factors play a significant role in their formation. This study makes two important contributions: First, cultural motivations are prominent among Muslim shoppers. Among these motivations, shopping environment motivations, including relationships with others and cleanliness, and staff behavior are very significant. These motivations are highly influenced by the culture of the context and we discover which motivations are not related to psychology alone and that the context has a significant influence on their formation. Second, hedonic motivations are also highlighted in the purchase of utilitarian products. In addition to direct effects, such as Islamic regulations on halal foods, Muslims’ religious tenets also have significant indirect effects on their behaviors and motivations.