J.S. Jo and S.C. Harlock
Part 1 of this article gave an overview of the computer‐aided design system. This part describes the software program developed as part of the system. Examples are given to…
Abstract
Part 1 of this article gave an overview of the computer‐aided design system. This part describes the software program developed as part of the system. Examples are given to illustrate application of the software in the design and grading of flat patterns.
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J.S. Jo and S.C. Harlock
The development of an educational CAD system for the design of flat patterns for female apparel is described. The philosophy used in the development of the system is explained…
Abstract
The development of an educational CAD system for the design of flat patterns for female apparel is described. The philosophy used in the development of the system is explained, together with the structure of the system which includes on‐line help files, demonstration programs and tutorials with assignments to assist the novice user.
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F.B.N. Ferreira, S.C. Harlock and P. Grosberg
A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Experiments were carried out under…
Abstract
A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Experiments were carried out under specified sewing conditions, whereby needle and bobbin thread tensioner adjustment, sewing speed, number of plies, fabric quality and sewing thread quality were varied in order to investigate the effect of these factors on the needle and bobbin thread tensions. The patterns of the thread tension traces obtained were analysed as well as the effect of these factors on the peak tensions detected on both thread tension traces. Four significant peak tensions on the needle thread tension trace and two significant peak tensions on the bobbin thread tension trace were detected, during a stitch cycle. It was found that no significant variations occurred as far as the timing and shape of the peak tensions were concerned. However, variations were detected in the peak tensions according to the sewing conditions, as expected. From the analysis of the data obtained, multiple regression equations were derived to predict, with a good degree of accuracy, the peak tensions generated, according to the sewing conditions.
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Describes a PC‐based CAD system for producing made‐to‐measure garment patterns which has been developed and implemented in the commercial environment of a bridalwear manufacturer…
Abstract
Describes a PC‐based CAD system for producing made‐to‐measure garment patterns which has been developed and implemented in the commercial environment of a bridalwear manufacturer. The software simulates the hand drafting methods of the company while automating pattern production with the following benefits: first, very rapid production of made‐to measure patterns; second, production of patterns which require minimal alteration at first fitting; third, a user friendly interface with very short training period; fourth, the de‐skilling of the pattern cutting procedure so that problems of staff turnover and training are minimal; and fifth, the elimination of human error in pattern cutting. Initial software development concentrated on bodice patterns. Further enhancements included sleeves and skirts and the mixing and matching of these three components of a dress. Cutting layouts were produced using automatic layout algorithms so that the whole procedure from order and measurements entry through pattern drafting and lay‐planning to the final full scale plotting could be carried out automatically. Furthermore, a queuing system allowed several orders previously entered on the computer to be processed in succession without any intervention by an operator. All the company’s styles are now held by the computer, which is in constant use, to the exclusion of the previously used skilled and lengthy hand drafting methods.
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KWOK Yi Lin, S.C. HARLOCK, A.Y.C. TAM and T.Y. LO
This paper presents the design of clothing for premature infants. This includes the development of suitable designs by taking into account physiological requirements of premature…
Abstract
This paper presents the design of clothing for premature infants. This includes the development of suitable designs by taking into account physiological requirements of premature infants together with the nursing practices that affect a premature infant’s thermal environment. The result of this research has shown that it is feasible to construct garments that meet the criteria and may allow some premature infants to be transferred from incubators with cots at an earlier age than normal, thereby releasing valuable incubator space.
Part I considers the design of the style of garments.
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An overview of the current state of Computer Inte‐grated Manufacture (CIM) in the clothing industry is presented. A modular CIM system is proposed to link the various activities…
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An overview of the current state of Computer Inte‐grated Manufacture (CIM) in the clothing industry is presented. A modular CIM system is proposed to link the various activities involved in the design, manufacture and retailing of apparel and an assess‐ment is made of the extent to which the CIM system can be currently achieved and the further developments necessary for full implementation.
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F.B.N. Ferreira, S.C. Harlock and P. Grosberg
The purpose of this investigation was to try to develop a theoretical model to satisfy and explain the interaction between the needle and bobbin threads, the tensions developed…
Abstract
The purpose of this investigation was to try to develop a theoretical model to satisfy and explain the interaction between the needle and bobbin threads, the tensions developed and their influence on seam balance. An explanation of the conditions determining seam balance is proposed based on a “robbing back” theory of stitch formation.
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F.B.N. Ferreira, S.C. Harlock and P. Grosberg
A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Investigates the relationship between the…
Abstract
A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Investigates the relationship between the peak tensions generated during the experiments and the corresponding seam balance. It was found that under the conditions of the experiments it is possible to define an envelope of conditions under which balanced seams will be obtained.
Yi Lin Kwok, S.C. Harlock, A.Y.C. Tam and T.Y. Lo
Based on the design of the garment described in Part I of this title, a hospital trial was undertaken with 10 premature infants. This paper presents the results of i) evaluation…
Abstract
Based on the design of the garment described in Part I of this title, a hospital trial was undertaken with 10 premature infants. This paper presents the results of i) evaluation of the thermal regulatory performance of the garment and ii) a questionnaire on handling the premature infants when wearing this clothing system answered by the seven doctors and twenty-seven nurses who took care of the 10 premature infants involved in this research work.
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W.M. Yu, S.C. Harlock, G.A.V. Leaf and K.W. Yeung
Describes the setting up of a moiré topographic system to measure three‐dimensional convex and concave surfaces of moulded brassière cups. The essential features of the system…
Abstract
Describes the setting up of a moiré topographic system to measure three‐dimensional convex and concave surfaces of moulded brassière cups. The essential features of the system consisted of a photographic instrument which precisely controlled the position of the light source, the camera, the grid and the cup sample. As the uniformity of the grid was most crucial to produce a high contrast moiré picture, a photochemical‐machined grid plate was developed, and a pneumatic grid translation device was incorporated into the system to produce a clear image. The tolerance of the instrumental error was derived by the law of error propagation and the confidence with the moiré set‐up was assured.