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Article
Publication date: 31 October 2024

Wiah Wardiningsih, Ryan Rudy, Witri Aini Salis, Rinayati Aprilia, Rachmaningsih Wardatul Jannah and Rr Wiwiek Eka Mulyani

This study aims to analyse cellulose fibres extracted from the pseudo-stems of Cymbopogon citratus and evaluate their properties in non-woven fabric production.

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Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to analyse cellulose fibres extracted from the pseudo-stems of Cymbopogon citratus and evaluate their properties in non-woven fabric production.

Design/methodology/approach

The water retting method was used for fibre extraction, and intrinsic fibre qualities were examined to assess their suitability for textile applications. A thermal bonding technique, using a hot press machine and polylactic acid powder as a binder, was applied for non-woven fabric development.

Findings

The retted fibres had an average length of 156 mm and a fineness value of 5.73 tex. The fibre’s tenacity and elongation values were 1.33 gf/denier and 12.78%, respectively. Fourier transform infrared analysis confirmed the presence of major cellulose components. The fibre’s crystallinity and friction coefficient were 50% and 0.3, respectively. C. citratus fibre exhibited hygroscopic characteristics with a moisture regain of 10.65%. Experimental non-woven fabrics (70% C. citratus fibre, 30% polylactic acid powder) demonstrated consistent weight and thickness, with variations in tensile strength. Moisture regain values for non-woven fabrics were approximately 7.6%.

Originality/value

The features of C. citratus fibre, obtained with the water retting process, exhibited suitability for textile applications. Three experimental non-woven fabrics comprising of C. citratus fibre and polylactic acid powder were produced with three different pressing temperatures. The tensile strength properties of these fabrics were influenced by pressing temperature.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 January 2024

Wiah Wardiningsih, Farhan Aqil Syauqi Pradanta, Ryan Rudy, Resty Mayseptheny Hernawati and Doni Sugiyana

The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric produced using these fibres.

Design/methodology/approach

The fibres were extracted via a decortication method. The acquired intrinsic qualities of the fibres were used to assess the feasibility of using them in textile applications. The thermal bonding approach was used for the development of the non-woven fabric, using a hot press machine with low-melt polyester fibre as a binder.

Findings

The mean length of Curcuma longa fibres was determined to be 52.73 cm, with a fineness value of 4.00 tex. The fibres exhibited an uneven cross-sectional morphology, characterized by a diverse range of oval-shaped lumens. The fibre exhibited a tenacity of 1.45 g/denier and an elongation value of 4.30%. The fibres possessed a moisture regain value of 11.30%. The experimental non-woven fabrics had consistent weight and thickness, while exhibiting different properties in terms of tensile strength and air permeability, with Fabric C having the highest tensile strength and the lowest air permeability value.

Originality/value

The features of Curcuma longa fibre, obtained with the decortication process, exhibited suitability for textile applications. Three experimental non-woven fabrics comprising different compositions of Curcuma longa fibre and low-melt polyester fibre were produced. The tensile strength and air permeability properties of these fabrics were influenced by the composition of the fibres.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2021

Ryan Rudy and Wiah Wardiningsih

This study aimed to determine the peak impact force and force attenuation capacity of weft-knitted spacer fabrics intended for padding that can be used for human body protection…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aimed to determine the peak impact force and force attenuation capacity of weft-knitted spacer fabrics intended for padding that can be used for human body protection against impact.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of five weft-knitted spacer fabrics were fabricated with four different diameters of nylon monofilament yarns and one doubled monofilament yarns, respectively. The impact performances of the weft-knitted spacer fabrics were tested using a drop test method with a customized test rig to simulate falling. Impact tests were conducted on single- and multilayered experimental spacer fabrics to investigate the peak impact force and force attenuation capacity.

Findings

It was found that weft-knitted spacer fabric with a coarser or larger diameter of monofilament spacer yarn generated lower impact force and higher force attenuation capacity, thus resulting in better impact performance. Greater force attenuation can be achieved by utilizing a higher number of spacer fabric layers. However, the increase in thickness must be considered with the spacer fabric end use.

Originality/value

This study employed relatively coarse nylon monofilament yarn as spacer yarns to gain knowledge on the impact performance of weft-knitted spacer fabrics compared to warp-knitted spacer fabrics which are more common. The results showed that the diameter of spacer yarn significantly influenced the impact performance of the experimental weft-knitted spacer fabrics. These results could be useful for designing and engineering textile-based impact protectors.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 August 2021

Atin Sumihartati, Wiah Wardiningsih, Naelly Al Kautsar, Muhammad Permana, Samuel Pradana and Ryan Rudy

The purpose of this study is to explore the potential of Cordyline Australis fibers as an alternate raw material for textile.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore the potential of Cordyline Australis fibers as an alternate raw material for textile.

Design/methodology/approach

The water retting method was used to extract the fiber. Cordyline Australis fibers were characterized in terms of the morphology of fibers (fiber cross-sectional and longitudinal), fiber chemical functional groups, tensile strength and elongation, fineness, fiber length, moisture regain and friction coefficient.

Findings

Cordyline Australis fiber strands consist of several individual fibers. At the longitudinal section, the fiber cells appeared as long cylindrical tubes with a rough surface. The cross-section of the Cordyline Australis fibers was irregular but some were oval. The key components in the fibers were cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. The tensile strength of the fiber per bundle was 2.5 gf/den. The elongation of fibers was 13.15%. The fineness of fiber was 8.35 Tex. The average length of the fibers was 54.72 cm. Moisture Regain for fiber was 8.59%. The friction coefficient of fibers was 0.16. The properties of the fiber showed that the Cordyline Australis fiber has the potential to be produced into yarn.

Originality/value

To the best of the author's knowledge, there is no scientific article focused on the Cordyline Australis fibers. Natural fibers from the leaves of the Cordyline Australis plant could be used as an alternate material for textile.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 26 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 July 2022

Wiah Wardiningsih, Sandra Efendi, Rr. Wiwiek Mulyani, Totong Totong, Ryan Rudy and Samuel Pradana

This study aims to characterize the properties of natural cellulose fiber from the pseudo-stems of the curcuma zedoaria plant.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to characterize the properties of natural cellulose fiber from the pseudo-stems of the curcuma zedoaria plant.

Design/methodology/approach

The fiber was extracted using the biological retting process (cold-water retting). The intrinsic fiber properties obtained were used to evaluate the possibility of using fiber for textile applications.

Findings

The average length of a curcuma zedoaria fiber was 34.77 cm with a fineness value of 6.72 Tex. A bundle of curcuma zedoaria fibers was comprised of many elementary fibers. Curcuma zedoaria had an irregular cross-section, with the lumen having a varied oval shape. Curcuma zedoaria fibers had tenacity and elongation value of 3.32 gf/denier and 6.95%, respectively. Curcuma zedoaria fibers had a coefficient of friction value of 0.46. Curcuma zedoaria fibers belong to a hygroscopic fiber type with a moisture regain value of 10.29%.

Originality/value

Extraction and Characterization of Curcuma zedoaria Pseudo-stems Fibers for Textile Application.

Article
Publication date: 21 December 2022

Tina Martina, Wiah Wardiningsih, Ajeng Rianti, Ryan Rudy and Samuel Martin Pradana

The purpose of this study was to characterize the fiber from Curcuma longa (turmeric) stems. The fiber’s properties were used to assess its potential for textile yarn production.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to characterize the fiber from Curcuma longa (turmeric) stems. The fiber’s properties were used to assess its potential for textile yarn production.

Design/methodology/approach

The natural fiber used in this investigation was extracted from agricultural waste through a cold water-retting process.

Findings

The Curcuma longa fiber had a crystallinity of 50%. Cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin were detected in the fibers’ Fourier transform infrared spectra. A Curcuma longa fiber bundle contains several constituent fibers. The fibers exhibited an irregular cross-section, with a variable oval shape for the lumen. The fibers of Curcuma longa averaged 30.22 cm in length. The fineness of the fibers was 6.58 Tex. In this study, Curcuma longa fibers had an 11.30% moisture regain. The tensile strength of the fibers was 19.18 g/Tex. Curcuma longa fibers showed a break elongation of 9.79%. The fiber coefficient of friction was 0.3.

Originality/value

Curcuma longa has characteristics that make it appropriate for industrial uses like spinning. Thus, it is possible to use Curcuma longa fiber as a raw material for textiles.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 June 2019

Rudi Wessel Pretorius, Ryan Anderson, Anisa Khotoo and Richelle Pienaar

This paper aims to reflect on approaches through which open, distance and e-learning (ODeL) students can use their local environments for assessments and explores how this shapes…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to reflect on approaches through which open, distance and e-learning (ODeL) students can use their local environments for assessments and explores how this shapes their conceptualisations of “university” and “campus”. Key issues and lessons learnt are covered, thus providing pointers for implementation of the type of assessment approaches that are presented.

Design/methodology/approach

Using three undergraduate sustainability-related modules in the Department of Geography, University of South Africa (Unisa), the lecturers’ reflections on the real-world sustainability learning experiences of students in these modules (2015-2018) have been cross-correlated and compared to present an integrated picture of emerging best practice.

Findings

The use of real-world, place-based applications, which form a central theme in the assessment strategy for all three modules, allows students to deal hands-on with sustainability issues, establishes a connection between ODeL students and the university and presents an opportunity to engage these students in real-world sustainability learning despite not being on campus.

Research limitations/implications

The case study format and qualitative, reflective methodology present limitations, while specifically focusing on ODeL and the final phase of undergraduate studies. Despite these limitations, the lessons learnt can be of value to universities currently transferring to online offerings, with possible impacts for sustainability learning.

Originality/value

This paper addresses misconceptions on the role of ODeL in transforming to sustainability. The criticism that ODeL is suitable for primarily theoretical training is countered by evidence that appropriately structured assessments requiring ODeL students to engage with real-world issues in their local environments, can provide valuable sustainability learning experiences.

Details

International Journal of Sustainability in Higher Education, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1467-6370

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 12 July 2010

Maarten Vansteenkiste, Christopher P. Niemiec and Bart Soenens

Cognitive evaluation theory (CET; Deci, 1975), SDT's first mini-theory, was built from research on the dynamic interplay between external events (e.g., rewards, choice) and…

Abstract

Cognitive evaluation theory (CET; Deci, 1975), SDT's first mini-theory, was built from research on the dynamic interplay between external events (e.g., rewards, choice) and people's task interest or enjoyment – that is, intrinsic motivation (IM). At the time, this research was quite controversial, as operant theory (Skinner, 1971) had dominated the psychological landscape. The central assumption of operant theory was that reinforcement contingencies in the environment control behavior, which precluded the existence of inherently satisfying activities performed for non-separable outcomes. During this time, Deci proposed that people – by nature – possess intrinsic motivation (IM), which can manifest as engagement in curiosity-based behaviors, discovery of new perspectives, and seeking out optimal challenges (see also Harlow, 1953; White, 1959). IM thus represents a manifestation of the organismic growth tendency and is readily observed in infants' and toddlers' exploratory behavior and play. Operationally, an intrinsically motivated activity is performed for its own sake – that is, the behavior is experienced as inherently satisfying. From an attributional perspective (deCharms, 1968), such behaviors have an internal perceived locus of causality, as people perceive their behavior as emanating from their sense of self, rather than from experiences of control or coercion.

Details

The Decade Ahead: Theoretical Perspectives on Motivation and Achievement
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-0-85724-111-5

Book part
Publication date: 12 November 2018

Vaughn Schmutz, Sarah H. Pollock and Jordan S. Bendickson

Previous research suggests that women receive less critical attention and acclaim in popular music. The authors expect that gender differences in the amount and content of media…

Abstract

Previous research suggests that women receive less critical attention and acclaim in popular music. The authors expect that gender differences in the amount and content of media discourse about popular musicians occur because music critics draw on the cultural frame of gender as a primary tool for critical evaluation. In order to explore the role of gender as a frame through which aesthetic content is evaluated, the authors conduct detailed content analyses of 53 critical reviews of two versions of the popular album 1989 – the original released by Taylor Swift in 2014 and a cover version released by Ryan Adams less than a year later. Despite Swift’s greater popularity and prominence, the authors find that reviews of her version of the album are more likely to focus on her gender and sexuality; less likely to describe her as emotionally authentic; and more likely to use popular aesthetic criteria in evaluating her music. By contrast, Ryan Adams was more likely to be seen by critics as emotionally authentic and to be described using high art aesthetic criteria and intellectualizing discourse. The authors address the implications of the findings for persistent gender gaps in many artistic fields.

Details

Gender and the Media: Women’s Places
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78754-329-4

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 January 2019

Boyke Rudy Purnomo

This study aims to examine the relationship between artistic orientation and entrepreneurial performance and how other central entrepreneurial resources, namely, entrepreneurial…

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Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to examine the relationship between artistic orientation and entrepreneurial performance and how other central entrepreneurial resources, namely, entrepreneurial orientation and financial literacy, affect this relationship.

Design/methodology/approach

Regulatory focus theory was used to develop the model. A survey of 375 small creative business entrepreneurs was conducted in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, and a hierarchical linear regression was used for data analysis.

Findings

The results reveal a positive correlation between artistic orientation, entrepreneurial orientation, financial literacy and entrepreneurial performance. Therefore, artistic orientation affects a creative firm’s financial and nonfinancial performance. In addition, artistic orientation and financial literacy provide a positive influence on the overall performance of a creative venture. However, the interaction effect of entrepreneurial orientation and financial literacy on the artistic orientation – performance relationship – is invisible

Practical implications

This research provides guidance on how creative firms may focus on the acquisition, development and protection of useful resources, namely, artistic orientation and financial literacy

Originality/value

This research is the first systematic empirical test evaluating the relationship between artistic orientation and entrepreneurial performance

Details

Journal of Enterprising Communities: People and Places in the Global Economy, vol. 13 no. 1/2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1750-6204

Keywords

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