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Article
Publication date: 1 May 1992

Jacqueline R. Postle and Ron Postle

There has been much discussion in the literature about the relationship between fabric “handle” and objective instrumental measurements of fabric low stress mechanical and surface…

244

Abstract

There has been much discussion in the literature about the relationship between fabric “handle” and objective instrumental measurements of fabric low stress mechanical and surface properties such as fabric tensile properties, shear, bending, lateral compression, surface friction and surface roughness. But fabric “handle” is not really an inherent fabric property, rather it is a description of one of the ways in which people generally make a subjective assessment of some of the quality attributes of apparel fabrics, designed for particular end‐use applications. In contrast, fabric drape is an inherent mechanical property of a fabric. Fabric drape is that unique property which quantifies the ability of a fabric to bend simultaneously in more than one plane. In order to exhibit the property of drape, fabrics must be able to bend and shear simultaneously, thus distinguishing textile materials from paper or thin polymer films. Develops a fundamental mechanical analysis of fabrics bending under their own weight. The equations governing the shape of an elastic fabric cantilever are solved numerically. Discusses the implications for experimental measurement of fabric bending length and fabric bending rigidity in terms of these numerical solutions with negligibly small errors. Graphically presents profiles of the draped fabric cantilever. Makes a comparison of the numerical solutions with the approximate formulae derived by F.T. Peirce.

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International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 4 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 August 1996

Jacqueline R. Postle and Ron Postle

Aims to analyse unique deformation properties of textile materials in terms of basic mechanical properties. Models fabric deformation as a nonlinear dynamical system so that a…

280

Abstract

Aims to analyse unique deformation properties of textile materials in terms of basic mechanical properties. Models fabric deformation as a nonlinear dynamical system so that a fabric can be completely specified in terms of its mechanical behaviour under general boundary conditions. Fabric deformation is dynamically analogous to waves travelling in a fluid. A localized two‐dimensional deformation evolves through the fabric to form a three‐dimensional drape or fold configuration. The nonlinear differential equations arising in the analysis of fabric deformation belong to the Klein‐Gordon family of equations which becomes the sine‐Gordon equation in three dimensions. The sine‐Gordon equation has its origins in the study of Bäcklund Transformations in differential geometry. Describes fabric deformation as a series of transformations of surfaces, defined in terms of curvature parameters using Gaussian representation of surfaces. By considering a deformed fabric as a two‐dimensional surface, algebraically constructs analytical solutions of fabric deformation by solving the sine‐Gordon Equation. The theory of Bäcklund Transformations is used to transform a trivial solution into a series of solitary wave solutions. These analytical expressions describing the curvature parameters of a surface represent actual solutions of fabric dynamical systems.

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International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 8 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 19 September 2024

Chen Liu and Huafeng Feng

To investigate whether the actual effects of eight drape characteristics of virtual fabrics can be manifested in the Style 3D software.

27

Abstract

Purpose

To investigate whether the actual effects of eight drape characteristics of virtual fabrics can be manifested in the Style 3D software.

Design/methodology/approach

Image analysis was conducted using MATLAB software to obtain the drape characteristics of virtual fabrics. Pair the drape characteristics of the real and virtual fabrics for difference. The S-W method was used to conduct a normality test to obtain the correlation of paired samples. A paired sample t-test was performed to obtain the significance values.

Findings

The simulation restoration performance of the drape coefficient, number of undulations, maximum undulation angle, minimum undulation angle and undulation angle uniformity was good. However, there are differences in the simulation performance of the other three indicators: maximum undulation amplitude, minimum undulation amplitude and undulation amplitude uniformity compared to the drape characteristics of real fabrics.

Originality/value

Provides reference value for the improvement of Style3D software in virtual fabric simulation and finds the main influential parameters and their impact levels that contribute to the realistic representation of virtual fabrics in software. It provides a theoretical basis for course teaching in digital fashion.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 37 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 August 2013

Henry Wang, Trevor Mahar and Ron Postle

The market for lightweight next-to-skin knitted wool fabrics requires a reliable tactile sensory or handle assessment system. In this paper, eight bipolar pairs of fabric tactile…

60

Abstract

The market for lightweight next-to-skin knitted wool fabrics requires a reliable tactile sensory or handle assessment system. In this paper, eight bipolar pairs of fabric tactile attributes to describe the tactile sensory properties of fifty-two next-to-skin knitted fabrics were evaluated by twelve experienced trained judges. Principal component analysis and partial least squares regression techniques were employed to analyse the tactile sensory data. The results showed that the most agreed tactile sensory dimension amongst the judges only occurred in the first principal component of each of the eight tactile attributes. In conjunction with the judges' loading coefficients on the agreed component, judges were selected for assessing the next-to-skin knitted fabrics. Furthermore, the relationship between the overall tactile quality and the primary tactile attributes was established using a partial least squares regression method, from which the existence of collinearity between the primary tactile attributes was constrained and the overall tactile quality was predicted with a prediction error of 0.48 subjective units on a scale of 1-10.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 17 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 1 June 2002

Ron Postle

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in‐plane compression, shear and bending properties, have been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the evaluation…

1212

Abstract

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in‐plane compression, shear and bending properties, have been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the evaluation of the three‐dimensional formability and drape of textile materials in apparel products and three‐dimensional preforms. In contrast to woven fabrics where bending and shear properties determine the fabric formability, knitted fabrics have very high formability as a direct result of their easy biaxial extension properties. This ability to form three‐dimensional shapes using the biaxial extensibility of knitted structures enables these knitted textile materials to be utilised for a wide variety of close fitting apparel garments and shaped composite preforms. Some representative biaxial extension curves for the plain knitted structure are described in this paper. These curves illustrate an unusual shape for the load‐extension curve of a textile material arising from the pre‐tension or pre‐stress. The pre‐stress yields an initial high tensile modulus for the structure in contrast to the very low initial modulus characteristic of apparel textiles. Accordingly, for knitted textile materials, it is shown how biaxial extension of the fabric introduces a fabric pre‐stress to maximise the three‐dimensional fabric formability especially when subjected to transverse compression by the resin or matrix in a composite material. Typical uniaxial and biaxial tensile stress–strain curves for knitted fabrics are compared.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 August 1998

Ron Postle and Jacqueline Rebecca Postle

The buckling behaviour of engineering materials has been researched extensively since the 1890s and more recently, thin shell theory has generalised the analysis to include…

488

Abstract

The buckling behaviour of engineering materials has been researched extensively since the 1890s and more recently, thin shell theory has generalised the analysis to include complicated boundary conditions. However, the approximations and assumptions which form the basis of engineering models make them inappropriate for textile materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains so that the deformations are highly nonlinear. In this paper, we develop a nonlinear mathematical method. In the final section, the nonlinear differential equations used are generalised into a nonlinear evolution equation which is completely integrable and thus solved analytically obtaining dynamical solution for three‐dimensional fabric drape. These analytical solutions are applicable under all conditions and are not subject to computational difficulties associated with finding numerical solutions for highly nonlinear problems. The use of this analytical approach to fabric mechanics and dynamics provides us with a very powerful tool to formulate and solve many long‐standing problems in fabric and clothing technology.

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International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 February 2003

Isao Ajiki and Ron Postle

The viscoelastic properties of the sewing thread before and after loading in the sewing process were investigated. Sewing threads are subjected to dynamic tension and friction in…

766

Abstract

The viscoelastic properties of the sewing thread before and after loading in the sewing process were investigated. Sewing threads are subjected to dynamic tension and friction in the sewing process. In order to compare polyester, cotton and silk sewing threads, the fineness of the threads were selected to be almost equal. There are some differences between the stress extension curves of the parent thread and the sewn thread except for the polyester sewing thread. The phenomenon of inverse relaxation occurs for high levels of retraction. The stress‐inverse relaxation index for the polyester sewing thread is larger than for other threads and the inverse relaxation for silk thread is small. From the creep curves, the sewn threads show higher secondary creep and lower instantaneous recovery than the parent threads.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 15 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 20 November 2007

George K. Stylios

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1620

Abstract

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

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International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2006

George K. Stylios

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects…

1111

Abstract

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 14 November 2008

George K. Stylios

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1278

Abstract

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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