Jose Favilla, João Paulo Marcicano, Regina A. Sanches and Marcus Olivas Maia
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the suitability of linen in garments for atopic dermatitis (AD) wearers.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the suitability of linen in garments for atopic dermatitis (AD) wearers.
Design/methodology/approach
In total, 60 garments were tested with four boys (five to eight years old): two with AD and two healthy kids using circular knitting occlusive structure (OS) 28-gauge and non-occlusive structure (NOS) 12-gauge with cotton, polyester staple and linen yarns. Air and water vapor permeability fabric results were analyzed using ANOVA method and occlusive levels correlated with thickness and UPF rates. Skin irritation levels were evaluated with Patient-Oriented SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (PO-SCORAD) self-assessment tool and for body temperature measurements infrared cameras were used. The authors standardized hygiene products; laundry procedures and soaps were previously identified and measured for their pH and skin irritation history with wearers.
Findings
Lower skinbody temperature (−2.6°C-−2.8°C) and PO-SCORAD values (16.1-22.8) during use by AD volunteers suggest promoting both wear tolerance (WT) and NOS preference. Air permeability of 3,222 l/m2s with NOS knitted linen as at least 48 percent higher than tested fibers indicating AD volunteers preference during hot climate (24°C to 37°C and 54 to 69 percent RH). Control healthy volunteers were less sensitive to NOS (−1.3°C-−1.6°C) and hot feeling polyester was detected in use. UPF confirms open loops of NOS (NOS UPF 10-5 vs OS UPF 25-15). Thickness (0.6 to 1.0 mm) and RET values (3.1-3.8) were both without significance for this study.
Research limitations/implications
Due to the experimental character of this study with a reduced group of two AD volunteers, wear test conclusion is limited to these specific boys. Work extension aiming at broad AD wears statistics significance should consider more volunteers.
Practical implications
The study provides specific answers to opening new possibilities for AD wear other than cotton or polyester, both fibers with more availability in the Brazilian garments retail industry that sometimes did not meet their routine needs. This study provides practical daily understanding of correlations of WT and air permeability level of NOS knitted applied to garments in direct contact with the skin in subtropical climates.
Social implications
Both academically and socially, the results can contribute to increasing information related to textile process and practical knowledge of knits to better accomplish AD clothing in subtropical climates. The practical wear test results with AD volunteers also indicate guidelines to parents who were having trouble identifying base layers, fundamental textiles and options for their kids in search of possible relief and well being mainly on hot days.
Originality/value
Circular knitting jersey linen study in direct contact with sensitive skin in a subtropical climate city like São Paulo is unique. The study also considered helping parents of a six-year-old AD boy in attendance to a doctor’s suggestion to find better options of clothings to be used during his daily routines.
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Regina A. Sanches, João Paulo Pereira Marcicano, Maria Silvia Barros de Held, Bárbara Maria Gama Guimarães, Raquel Seawright Alonso, Karina Mitie Takamune, Adriana Yumi Sato Duarte and Franco Giuseppe Dedini
The purpose of this paper is to present a comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics used in the manufacturing of apparel, which are produced from organic cotton…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to present a comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics used in the manufacturing of apparel, which are produced from organic cotton, lyocell and soybean protein fiber (SPF). It is important for both the environment and society that textile industry continues to adopt more ecofriendly materials and furthermore, pushes to increase awareness regarding these material choices available to the consumer and the corresponding impacts of consumers’ decisions. The use of sustainable fibers may be a starting point for changing the industrial paradigm of the textile industry.
Design/methodology/approach
The research presented herein analyzes the potential use of three raw materials used in the development of knitted fabrics: organic cotton, lyocell and SPF. The experimental trials, based on norms, determined the weight, pilling, rupture pressure resistance, absorption by capillarity, dimensional alteration and elasticity. The significance of the experimental results was verified through the analysis of variance, with a confidence interval of 95 percent (p=0.05) and the determination of the optimal regulation of the machine was made through an analysis of the response surface.
Findings
The results indicate that each of the studied materials are suitable for textile application; however, the fabrics manufactured from soybean yarn, compared to those manufactured from organic cotton or lyocell, have a higher potential to meet the needs of the costumer.
Social implications
The discussion regarding sustainability is far reaching on the ways it interacts with human life. As such, the latent need for meeting this new demand presents a unique opportunity for the development of new processes and products. In the case of the textile industry, initiatives are gradually being adopted that make the processes used by the supply chain less damaging to the environment. Clothing and fashion are highly visible elements of society, so consequently, the textile industry serves as an excellent candidate for promoting a sustainable and eco-friendly mindset.
Originality/value
The incorporation of sustainable fibers can serve as a starting point for change to the industrial paradigm existing within the textile industry. To this point, this study intended to analyze the potential implementation of three raw materials – organic cotton, lyocell and SPF – in the development of knitted fabrics. The results indicated that these materials are adequate for textile applications.
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Anelise Leal Vieira Cubas, Ana Paula Provin, Ana Regina de Aguiar Dutra, José Baltazar Salgueirinho Osório de Andrade Guerra and Clarissa Carneiro Mussi
Higher education institutions (HEIs) have a pivotal role in global sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to assess the QualEnv Consortium's contributions (QualEnv…
Abstract
Purpose
Higher education institutions (HEIs) have a pivotal role in global sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to assess the QualEnv Consortium's contributions (QualEnv, a cooperative network of 16 universities across several countries, aimed to promote sustainability within HEIs). This paper focuses on three key objectives: illustrating QualEnv's successful, replicable sustainability strategies, highlighting their application and outcomes and contributing to the discourse on sustainable practices in HEIs.
Design/methodology/approach
This research uses qualitative and exploratory methods to provide an in-depth view of sustainability practices and strategies within universities. This study relies on documentation, specifically the “Sustainability Handbooks” of the QualEnv project, as a source of evidence.
Findings
This study reveals that the QualEnv Consortium's strategies have significantly improved the environmental and social performance of participating HEIs. Notably, this research identifies substantial enhancements in key sustainability metrics, including reduced carbon emissions, increased adoption of eco-friendly practices and stronger community engagement.
Research limitations/implications
This study has some limitations. First, the choice of a qualitative methodological approach may constrain the generalizability of the findings. Another relevant limitation is related to the uniformity in adopting sustainable practices. The effectiveness of actions linked to the Sustainable Development Goals may depend on consistency in implementation among participating universities, and variations in this aspect can affect the direct comparison of adopted strategies.
Originality/value
This research contributes to the sustainability in higher education field by comprehensively examining the QualEnv Consortium's innovative approach. By focusing on QualEnv's experiences and outcomes, this research offers valuable insights and serves as a model for HEIs worldwide seeking to align their academic, research and community engagement efforts with sustainable development goals.
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Regina C.G. Leite, Abilio M.P. de Jesus, José Correia, Patricia Raposo, Renato N. Jorge, Marco Paulo Parente and Rui Calçada
Recent studies have proposed the application of local fatigue approaches based on fracture mechanics or on strain-life material relations for the fatigue analysis of metallic…
Abstract
Purpose
Recent studies have proposed the application of local fatigue approaches based on fracture mechanics or on strain-life material relations for the fatigue analysis of metallic structures. However, only few studies in the literature apply local approaches in the riveted bridges analysis; although these approaches can be applied to any type of connections, requiring a detailed stress analysis of joints and, consequently, considerable computational resources costs. The approach based on S-N curves, formulated in nominal or net stresses, is more usual in the fatigue analysis of riveted bridges. Due to economic factors, riveted bridges have had their operating life extended, while changes in the transport system over the years have subjected such structures to overloads different from those originally planned. These bridges, most of them centenary, were not originally designed accounting for fatigue damage; they represent an important group of structures that are very likely subjected to significant fatigue damage indexes. These factors make necessary detailed residual fatigue life studies to substantiate the decisions of extend (or not) the operational period of these bridges. The paper aims to discuss these issues.
Design/methodology/approach
The present paper presents a methodology aiming at applying the local approaches in the fatigue analysis of riveted joints of metallic bridges, through the use of sub-modeling techniques and procedures automation. The use of such techniques made such an application viable by keeping the computational costs involved at a moderate level. The proposed procedures were demonstrated using the Trezói Railway Bridge, located on the Beira Alta line, Portugal, built shortly after the Second World War. The proposed set of procedures allowed, through finite elements analysis, to obtain the relevant stresses to perform local fatigue damage analysis. A global structural model was constructed, using beam elements, and local models of a critical node were built with solid finite elements. The structure is analyzed under the passage of regulatory trains. The details of the modeling performed and the computation of the principal stresses in the vicinity of a node and the tangential/circumferential stresses at the holes of two critical riveted connections of that node are analyzed and a fatigue damage analysis is carried out.
Findings
In the proposed submodelling approach, disassembling the complex riveted nodes into riveted subassemblies allowed the evaluation of the local stresses at riveted holes at an affordable computational cost.
Originality/value
A methodology is proposed to allow the application of local fatigue analysis in real complex riveted joints, mitigating the computational costs that would result from a full model of the node with all rivets.
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Marcos Roque da Rosa, Sara Moggi, Clodis Boscarioli and Kátya Regina de Freitas Zara
This study aims to examine how Brazilian universities have implemented the sustainable development goals (SDGs) in institutional practices, curriculum and teaching, management and…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to examine how Brazilian universities have implemented the sustainable development goals (SDGs) in institutional practices, curriculum and teaching, management and community outreach programs.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on content analysis of the data sets of Brazilian higher education courses and their link to SDGs. A literature review has also been developed to integrate the knowledge of sustainability practices in Brazilian universities. Dashboards will be used to present the related findings.
Findings
Brazilian universities’ practices have concentrated their efforts on SDGs, which include responsible consumption and production, sustainable cities and communities and quality education. The literature emphasizes energy efficiency, reflecting its prominence as a subject of study among universities.
Originality/value
This research highlights the innovative use of data analysis techniques to present the findings. It also provides examples of environmental, social and governance (ESG) practices, frameworks and tools that can help sustainability management in this sector.
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Frida Lind, Alexander Styhre and Lise Aaboen
The purpose of this paper is to explore university‐industry collaboration in research centres.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explore university‐industry collaboration in research centres.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper builds on an explorative study of three research centres at a technical university in Sweden, using in‐depth interviews. The three research centres, Alpha, Beta and Gamma, have various degrees of involvement with industry.
Findings
A total of four broad forms of collaboration are suggested: distanced, translational, specified and developed collaboration.
Research limitations/implications
The paper shows that the different institutional logics of academic actors, industry actors and funding agencies can be present in collaborations in (at least) four different ways resulting in four different types of research processes. Since not all actors are likely to be equally satisfied in all types of collaborations, the continued development of the research centres will be at risk.
Practical implications
If the role of the research centre is to be a forum for collaboration, the research centre has to be a good mediator between the actors in order to ensure their satisfaction with the research centre within and between projects. If, in contrast, the role of the research centre is to be a facilitator of collaboration, the research centre needs to enable the actors to learn how to interact with each other in order for the distanced, translational, specified collaboration to evolve into developed collaboration.
Originality/value
Few studies have focused on the collaborations per se in research centres, taking the different institutional logics of the actors involved in the collaboration into account.