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Article
Publication date: 8 November 2022

Manoj Kumar Imrith, Satyadev Rosunee and Roshan Unmar

The thermophysiological comfort of fabrics is prerequisite as customers covet adequate moisture, heat management-supported and UV protective clothing that measure up to their…

111

Abstract

Purpose

The thermophysiological comfort of fabrics is prerequisite as customers covet adequate moisture, heat management-supported and UV protective clothing that measure up to their levels of activities and environmental conditions. Hitherto, scant tasks have been reported with the purpose of engineering both comfort and UV protection simultaneously. From that vantage point, the objective of this work is to develop a model for optimum UPF, air permeability, water-vapour resistance, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and areal density of knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Weft knitted fabrics of various compositions were investigated. UPF was tested using the Labsphere UV transmittance analyser. The FX 3300 (Textest instruments) air permeability tester was used to test air permeability. Thermal comfort and water-vapour resistance were evaluated using the Alambeta and Permetest instruments, respectively. Based on image processing, the porosity was measured. Fabrics thickness and areal density were measured according to standard methods. Furthermore, parametric and non-parametric statistical test methods were applied to the data for analysis.

Findings

Linear regression was substantiated by Kolmogorov-Smirnov test. Then multiple linear regression of porosity and thickness together on UPF and comfort parameters were visually depicted by virtue of 3D linear plots. Residual analysis with quantile-quantile and probability plots, advocated the tests using the Shapiro-Wilk test. The result was validated by comparison with experimental data tested. The samples gave satisfactory relative errors and were supported by the z-test method. All tests indicated failure to reject the null hypothesis.

Originality/value

The predictive models were embedded into an interactive computer program. Fabric thickness and porosity are the inputs needed to run the program. It will predict the optimum UPF, areal density and thermophysiological comfort parameters. In a nutshell, knitters may use the program to determine optimum structural parameters for diverse permutations of UPF and thermophysiological comfort parameters; scilicet high UV protection together with low thermal insulation combined with low water-vapour resistance and high air permeability.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 1 August 2010

Naveen V Padaki, R. Alagirusamy, B.L. Deopura and R. Fangueiro

The simulation of resin flow during the resin transfer molding (RTM) process through multilayered textile fabric of known permeability and porosity has been attempted in this…

47

Abstract

The simulation of resin flow during the resin transfer molding (RTM) process through multilayered textile fabric of known permeability and porosity has been attempted in this study. A simple three-dimensional computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulation model has been developed and the results of the simulation are compared with the experimental RTM resin flow through multilayer interlocked woven structures. A multiphase simulation model is observed to reasonably predict the time for RTM mold filling. Fabric structural influence in terms of an Interlacement Index (I) has significant influence on the resin flow behaviour of the multilayered preform. A higher I of the preform means a longer time to fill the mold in both the experimental and simulated results. Images of the simulated flow front has been compared with the experimental results and it is observed that not only the mold filling time, but also the area of resin flow in the multilayer perform, is influenced by a fabric structural factor, I.

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Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 14 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 25 February 2021

G.L.D. Wickramasinghe G.L.D. Wickramasinghe, Sameera Umesh Dolawatte, Isuru Udayanga Thebuwana and W.W.S. Sampath Botheju

The main objectives of this research work were to investigate the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn properties and melange fabric properties with special reference…

280

Abstract

Purpose

The main objectives of this research work were to investigate the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn properties and melange fabric properties with special reference to melange appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

Polyester/nylon intermingled yarns were produced using an SSM DP3-C air-intermingling machine using commercial process parameters and Heberlein P212 nozzle. Melange fabric samples were knitted from polyester/nylon intermingled yarns while maintaining the same parameters to avoid knitting variations. The fabric samples were dyed using a sample dyeing machine while maintaining dye recipe and dyeing parameters constant to avoid dyeing variations.

Findings

The production speed has significant effect on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties. When the production speed is increased, mingle points, mingle stability, linear density, strength and the elongation of the intermingled yarns decreases. When the production speed is increased, fabric weight decreases and the melange effect varies from dot-like appearance to line-like appearance.

Research limitations/implications

Only the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties is discussed in this paper. Appearance evaluating systems developed in this research are limited to melange fabrics produced using air-intermingled yarns with two colour components.

Practical implications

Results indicate that the intermingled yarns for the application of melange fabrics should be developed with optimum intermingling speeds, and it should not be changed during the production since production speed has significant effect on yarn and fabric parameters. Therefore, melange appearance and fabric weight may vary between fabric lots with different production speeds even though all the other parameters are kept constant. Further, melange appearance evaluation method developed in this research could be used as a guide in developing melange fabrics.

Originality/value

This research introduced a qualitative and a quantitative method to analyse melange fabric appearance. This melange appearance evaluation method can be used as a guide to achieve specific melange effect in the sample development stage. Further, when a melange sample appearance catalogue is developed for all the variables for a particular fabric type using this evaluation method, customer requested appearance can be achieved in minimum sample trials which save time, capacity, money and customer credibility.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 31 May 2022

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay and Vivek Prasad Shaw

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of…

67

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of abrasion on the change in surface appearance, mass loss and ultimate tensile properties of the stretch denim fabric in different directions (warp, weft and biased).

Design/methodology/approach

After abrading the fabrics in three different directions (warp, weft and biased), the loss in ultimate tensile properties, mass loss and surface appearance has been investigated in the respective directions of abrasion (warp, weft and biased). The study also encompasses the effect of different types of stretch yarn with varying levels of elastane content on such unidirectional abrasive damage.

Findings

It is seen that with the same level of abrasion cycles, the fabric's response in terms of mass loss and loss in ultimate tensile properties are different in different directions. The mass loss due to abrasion in biased direction is found to be minimum. The loss in ultimate tensile properties due to abrasion was highest in the weft direction. It is also found that the higher mass loss due to abrasion does not always result in a greater loss in ultimate tensile properties. The composition and the structure of the weft yarn significantly affected the extent of the mass loss and the loss in ultimate tensile properties during abrasive damage.

Originality/value

The impact of abrasive damage in terms of mass loss and loss in tensile strength along the different directions of denim fabric has not been explored till date. Abrasion of fabric can be done both in multi-direction (Lissajous motion) as well as in uni-direction (linear motion). The multidirectional abrasion provides a holistic or comprehensive idea of the fabric's response to the abrasive damage but does not take into consideration the fabric's anisotropic response to the abrasive damage. Most of the earlier investigation related to abrasive damage of denim fabric has been done in instruments where the motion of the abrader is multidirectional (Lissajous) in nature. For greater depth of understanding about the fabric performance under abrasive damage along the various direction (warp, weft and biased), unidirectional abrasion is conducted in this study.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 28 September 2021

Vivek Prasad Shaw and Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the…

305

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the effect of abrasion on the durability of comfort related to body movement and shape retention property of the stretch-denim fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper investigates the effect of abrasion on the initial tensile properties, recovery and resilience properties of the stretch-denim fabric. Further, to analyse the effect of the composition of the elastane yarn, three different types of elastane yarns having different types of sheath (covering) fibre, structure and different levels of elastane content have been used in the weft.

Findings

The comfort related to body movement and the shape retention properties of the stretch-denim fabric got affected due to abrasive damage. The elastane yarn composition and structure played an important role in determining the extent of the change in such properties during abrasion. The fabric with a higher level of elastane content suffered a greater loss in shape-retention properties due to abrasion. The extent of mass loss in stretch-denim fabric does not always correlate to the extent of loss in the comfort and shape-retention properties.

Originality/value

Most of the earlier studies have investigated the effect of abrasion on the durability aspect of the stretch-denim fabric. In a practical scenario, the stretch-denim garments are rarely discarded due to tearing or change in appearance but mainly due to bagging, i.e. distortion in shape after usage. Thus, the study on the combined effect of the abrasion and cyclic loading on the comfort and shape-retention properties will help to predict the performance of the apparel during usage.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 3 October 2022

Mladen Stančić, Dragana Grujić, Nemanja Kašiković, Branka Ružičić and Djordje Vujčić

The research aims to examine the varying influence of printed inkjet ink on the warm/cool feeling and air permeability of printed textile materials and thus on the thermal…

144

Abstract

Purpose

The research aims to examine the varying influence of printed inkjet ink on the warm/cool feeling and air permeability of printed textile materials and thus on the thermal properties of printed garments.

Design/methodology/approach

The influence of different number of printing pass and different tone value (TV) coverage was examined. The tested samples were printed with water-based pigment inkjet inks with 10, 50 and 100% TVs with one, three and five printing passes. The tested samples were subjected to thermal characteristics testing by measuring the warm/cool feeling and air permeability before and after printing.

Findings

The research results showed that there is an increase in the value of the warm/cool feeling by increasing the amount of applied ink on the textile material, which occurs by increasing the TVs and the number of printing pass. At the same time values of air permeability decrease by increasing the number of printing pass, as well as by increasing TVs.

Originality/value

Based on the results, mathematical models of the dependence of the warm/cool feeling value of printed textile materials on the air permeability and parameters of digital inkjet printing were created. These models are important in clothing design because they show in advance the values of the warm/cool feeling of the clothes being designed and thus enable the design of clothes for different purposes with optimal esthetic and thermal properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 28 June 2024

Meghana Kammeta and N.K. Palaniswamy

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and…

64

Abstract

Purpose

In everyday life, people generally wear two layers of clothes (a knitted vest and a knitted t-shirt) during the summer. It is essential to understand which types of innerwear and outerwear maximize comfort. The primary objective of this research is to investigate the influence of layering outerwear on innerwear, as well as the air gap between two layers, on thermal comfort properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, a total of 12 combinations were created from four vest fabrics and three T-shirt fabrics. The thermal properties (thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, thermal diffusion and peak heat flow) were evaluated for the individual inner and outer layers. Each inner layer was layered with an outer layer to observe the effect of layering on the thermal properties. An air gap of 2 mm was introduced between the inner and outer layers to study the effect of air gap on thermal properties.

Findings

Tencel fibre exhibits higher thermal conductivity and absorptivity than cotton and polyester. Upon layering an outer layer on an inner layer, the thermal conductivity and thermal absorptivity increase to a slight extent, thermal resistance and diffusion increase drastically and the peak heat flow reduces. With an air gap between the two layers, the thermal conductivity did not improve, the difference in thermal resistance among all the combinations reduced, the thermal absorptivity of the combination textiles was lower than that of the innerwear alone, the thermal diffusion increased and the peak heat flow diminished for all the combinations.

Practical implications

In practice, this comprehensive thermal comfort analysis provides specific combinations of inner and outer articles of clothing that are most appropriate for enhancing comfort during the summer season.

Originality/value

Though there are many studies on the effect of multilayer fabrics on thermal properties, no extensive research analyses the influence of innerwear and outerwear combinations on thermal comfort properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Available. Open Access. Open Access
Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Natalie Ishmael, Anura Fernando, Sonja Andrew and Lindsey Waterton Taylor

This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of…

7257

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of combining yarn interlocking with yarn interlooping.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper describes the key textile technologies used for composite manufacture: braiding, weaving and knitting. The various textile preforming methods are suited to different applications; their capabilities and end performance characteristics are analysed.

Findings

Such preforms are used in composites in a wide range of industries, from aerospace to medical and automotive to civil engineering. The paper highlights how the use of knitting technology for preform manufacture has gained wider acceptance due to its flexibility in design and shaping capabilities. The tensile properties of glass fibre knit structures containing inlay yarns interlocked between knitted loops are given, highlighting the importance of reinforcement yarns.

Originality/value

The future trends of reinforcement yarns in knitted structures for improved tensile properties are discussed, with initial experimental data.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 6 November 2018

Onur Balci, Gözde Özlem Kinoglu and Burcu Sancar Besen

In this study, which is divided into two parts, the silicone softeners having different properties and including different additives as glycerin, polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400…

268

Abstract

Purpose

In this study, which is divided into two parts, the silicone softeners having different properties and including different additives as glycerin, polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400) and polyethylene glycol 4000 (PEG 4000) (due to their high hydrophilic characters) are produced for the purpose of providing or developing the hydrophilic character, lubricity and filling properties of the emulsions. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

Design/methodology/approach

In the first part of the study, the produced silicone emulsions were characterized and applied to the 100 percent cotton-knitted fabrics. In addition, the mechanical properties and whiteness degrees of the fabrics were also researched. In this part of the study, the effects of the produced silicone softeners on the comfort properties of the fabric samples were investigated by qualitative handle, hydrophility, contact angle, air permeability, thermal comfort and moisture management tests.

Findings

The results showed that while classic silicone application improved mechanical comfort properties of the samples such as the handle and drape properties, they worsened other thermal comfort properties as hydrophility, transfer or dispersion of the moisture, and air permeability. In addition, the thermal comfort properties about heat transfer of the fabric samples were not significantly affected by application of the silicone softeners. All results were affected from the producing recipe of the silicone softeners, and generally the usage of the additives had positive effect on the comfort results depending on the producing recipe (especially type of the silicone oil) of the silicone softeners.

Research limitations/implications

In this study, the additives were used in single form; however, their dual or trio combinations and/or their different amounts can be used in the emulsions.

Practical implications

In order to enhance the hydrophilic character, lubricity and filling properties of the silicone softeners, they could be produced by using appropriate additives.

Originality/value

In the literature, there were not any studies about the silicone softeners including different additives. So the authors can say that the contribution of the additives to the recipes of the silicone softeners is a novel approach.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 10 March 2022

Abenezer Fikre Hailemariam and Nuredin Muhammed

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

282

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Yarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.

Findings

Denim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.

Originality/value

Both spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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