Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi and Faouzi Sakli
The purpose of this paper is to predict the bagging recovery velocity of bagged denim fabric samples. Hence, the authors attempt to carry out a model highlighting and explaining…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to predict the bagging recovery velocity of bagged denim fabric samples. Hence, the authors attempt to carry out a model highlighting and explaining the impact of some considered frictional parameters such as yarn-to-yarn friction expressed as weft yarn rigidity parameter and metal-to-fabric friction expressed by mean frictional coefficient parameter.
Design/methodology/approach
The statistical analysis steps were implemented using experimental design type Taguchi and thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modeling methodology analyzed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis. The predictive power of the obtained model is evaluated by comparing the estimated recovery velocity (theoretical) with the actual values. These comparative values are measured after the bagging test and during the relaxation time of the denim fabric samples. The regression coefficient (R2) values as well as the statistical tests (p-values, analysis of variance results) were investigated, discussed and analyzed to improve the findings.
Findings
According to the statistical results given by Taguchi analysis findings, the regression model is very significant (p-regression=0.04 and R2=97 percent) which explains widely the possibility of bagging behavior prediction in the studied experimental field of interest. Indeed the variation (the increase or the decrease) of the frictional input parameters values caused, as a result, the variation of the whole appearance and the shape of the bagged zone expressed by the residual bagging height variations. In spite of their similar compositions and characteristics, the woven bagged fabrics presented differently behaviors in terms of the bagging recovery and kinetic velocity values. After relaxation times which are not the same and relative to different fabric samples, it may be concluded that bagging behavior remained function of the internal frictional stresses, especially yarn-to-yarn and metal-to-fabric ones.
Practical implications
This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. In fact, in terms of the importance to the industrial producers of the materials it helps to provide a first step in an attempt for a better understanding of the stresses involved in bagging of woven fabrics in general and denim fabrics particularly due to important frictional input contributions. They provide the basis for the development of fabrics that can withstand bagging problems. This research may also put forward improved methods of measuring bagginess as function of frictional parameters in order to optimize (minimize) their effects on the bagging behaviors before and after repetitive uses. These experimental, statistical and theoretical findings may be used to predict bagginess of fabrics based on their properties and prevent industrial from the most significant and influential inputs which should be adjusted accurately. This work allows industrial, also, to make more attention, in case of a high-quality level to ensure, to optimize and review yarn behaviors used to produce fabrics against drastic solicitations and minimize frictions forms during experimental spinning and weaving processes.
Originality/value
Until now, there is no sufficient information to evaluate and predict the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behavior. Besides, there is no work that deals with the kinetic recovery evolution as function of frictional inputs to explain accurately the bagging behavior evolution during relaxation time. Therefore, this present work is to investigate and model the residual bagging recovery velocity after bagging test as function of the frictional input parameters of both denim yarn and fabric samples (expressed by the friction caused due to contact from conformator to fabric).
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R. Abghari, S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, M. Haghpanahi and M. Latifi
To investigate the relation of in‐plane fabric tensile properties with woven fabrics bagging behavior, a new test method was developed and a real time data acquisition and strain…
Abstract
To investigate the relation of in‐plane fabric tensile properties with woven fabrics bagging behavior, a new test method was developed and a real time data acquisition and strain gauge technique were used. The bagging procedure was carried out while the woven fabric tensile deformations along warp and weft directions were measured. The fabric bagging behavior was characterized by bagging resistance, bagging fatigue, residual bagging height and residual bagging hysteresis. The experimental results show that the bagging load, work, hysteresis, residual hysteresis and fatigue are highly linearly correlated with corresponding parameters in warp and weft directions. An empirical relationship obtained between residual bagging height and bagging fatigue and resistance (R2=0.83) suggests that the proposed new test method is able to evaluate bagging behavior of fabrics.
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Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Charles Adolphe and Faouzi Sakli
The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.
Design/methodology/approach
To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches.
Findings
According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate.
Practical implications
This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches.
Originality/value
This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.
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Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi and Faouzi Sakli
The purpose of this paper is to optimize the frictional input parameters related to the yarn and woven fabric samples. Indeed, using metaheuristic techniques for optimization, it…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to optimize the frictional input parameters related to the yarn and woven fabric samples. Indeed, using metaheuristic techniques for optimization, it helps to attempt the best quality appearance of garment, by analysing their effects and relationships with the bagging behaviour of tested fabrics before and after bagging test. Using metaheuristic techniques allows us to select widely the minimal residual bagging properties and the optimized inputs to adjust them for this goal.
Design/methodology/approach
The metaheuristic methods were applied and discussed. Hence, the genetic algorithms (GA) and ant colony optimization (ACO) technique results are compared to select the best residual bagging behaviour and their correspondent parameters. The statistical analysis steps were implemented using Taguchi experimental design thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modelling methodology analysed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis to prepare to the optimization steps.
Findings
The regression results are essential for evaluate the effectiveness of the relationships founded between inputs and outputs parameters and for their optimizations in the design of interest.
Practical implications
This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to optimize the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behaviour due to bagging phenomenon can be analysed and optimized accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones can fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help to understand why residual bagging behaviour remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions.
Originality/value
Until now, there is no work dealing with the optimization of bagging behaviour using metaheuristic techniques. Indeed, all investigations are focused on the evaluation and theoretical modelling based on the multi linear regression analysis. It is notable that the metaheuristic techniques such as ACO and GA are used to optimize some difficult problems but not yet in the textile field excepting some studies using the GA. Besides, there is no sufficiently information to evaluate, predict and optimize the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behaviour. Several and different denim fabrics within their different characteristics are investigated to widen the experimental analysis and thus to generalize the results in the experimental design of interest.
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Aims to analyse the stress distribution in a circular flexible sheet. Part I provides a theoretical approach to the analysis of the bagging deformation in textile fabrics.
Abstract
Purpose
Aims to analyse the stress distribution in a circular flexible sheet. Part I provides a theoretical approach to the analysis of the bagging deformation in textile fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
The investigation includes analysing the stress distribution in a circular flexible sheet clamped around its circumference under an externally applied force by a spherical object. Movement of the material normal to its original plane is then related to the external force and the elastic properties of the sheet, i.e. the elastic modulus and the Poisson's ratio. The effects of the size of the force‐applying object, relative to the sample radius, are also investigated.
Findings
The relationship between the applied force on the centre of a flexible sheet material by a spherical object and the sag of the sheet was derived. Poisson's ratio has an important role on the mechanism of deformation, restricting the extension of the sheet when it is high and intensifying the discontinuity of the strain at the interface.
Research limitations/implications
The work could be expanded to industrial fabrics and to composite materials.
Practical implications
The two papers provide a first step in an attempt for a better understanding of the stresses involved in bagging of a linear elastic sheet. They provide the basis for the development of fabrics that can withstand bagging problems. This research may also put forward improved methods of measuring bagginess. Some of the theoretical work may be used to predict bagginess of fabrics based on properties.
Originality/value
The paper has two improvements on previous work: the inclusion of the effect of fabric Poisson ratio, and the suggestion of a better method of calculating the overall anisotropic properties.
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S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, E. Hezavehi, Sh. Hoseini Hashemi and A. Rashidi
The purpose of this paper is to describe a unique approach to investigate the wrinkle force of textile structures in a cylindrical model.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to describe a unique approach to investigate the wrinkle force of textile structures in a cylindrical model.
Design/methodology/approach
In this research, an apparatus was designed and constructed in order to investigate the torsional and wrinkle behavior of textile structures in a cylindrical model under a different rotational level using data acquisition and micro‐controller systems.
Findings
In the light of research results, the fiber and fabric type, fabric physical and mechanical properties and imposed rotational level significantly contributed to wrinkle characteristics of worsted fabrics. It was noticed that with increase of rotational level, the wrinkle force, and energy increased along weft and warp directions. Wrinkle characteristics along warp direction exhibited greater values than in weft direction.
Originality/value
The study is aimed at determining wrinkle behavior of worsted fabrics under the combined influences of compression and torsional strains.
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Emadaldin Hezavehi, Saeed Shaikhzadeh Najar, P. Zolgharnein and Hamed Yahya
The purpose of this paper is to analyze the stress‐relaxation behavior of different woven fabrics under constant torsional strain in a wrinkled state. For this purpose, a new…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to analyze the stress‐relaxation behavior of different woven fabrics under constant torsional strain in a wrinkled state. For this purpose, a new method for determination of stress‐relaxation behavior of the fabric was used while keeping the torsional strain constant.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the behavior of stress relaxation of fabric is examined with modification of wrinkle force tester sophisticated electro‐mechanical method and fabricating a device which uses a computer and micro controller, with constant torsional strain by a rotational level of 9.1 turn/m in 280°, and in 300 s.
Findings
The results depict that stress‐relaxation percentage in fabric in weft alignment is more than warp alignment and the fabrics which tolerate more torsional force, possess less stress‐relaxation percentages. In this way, with increasing polyester percentage in fabric the scale of stress‐relaxation percentage decreases. Also, adoption of data derived from experiments with Maxwell model shows that the interlaced model is a suitable model for explaining the stress relaxation decline in fabric. Correlation coefficient of fabrics in weft alignment with Maxwell model is more than warp alignment.
Practical implications
This study has practical implications in the clothing as well as in technical textiles areas.
Originality/value
Knowing visco‐elastic properties is very important. However, there is no information available to study the stress relaxation of woven fabrics under the combined influences of compression and constant torsional strains.
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Yang Yang, Weijing Zhang, Zheng Liu and Peihua Zhang
The purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of filament composition with different specifications on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of filament composition with different specifications on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
In this paper eight bi-layer knitted fabrics with the same knitting structure but different filament compositions were prepared, and the thermal-wet comfort properties of these fabrics were examined. According to experimental data, the effect of filament composition on the thermal comfort properties of fabric was analyzed.
Findings
The increasing difference of hydrophilicity between inner and outer layers resulted in the enhancement of moisture management properties. Better thermal-physiology performance was exhibited by fabrics made up of finer and circular section fibers. Excellent thermal transfer, drying performance and one-way water transport capacity benefited the improvement of dynamic cooling effect of fabrics.
Originality/value
This work provides a useful and effective method for the development of bi-layer knitted fabric applied for sports and summer clothing.
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Globally, consumer’s inclination towards functional foods had noticed due to their greater health consciousness coupled with enhanced health-care cost. The fact that probiotics…
Abstract
Purpose
Globally, consumer’s inclination towards functional foods had noticed due to their greater health consciousness coupled with enhanced health-care cost. The fact that probiotics could promote a healthier gut microbiome led projection of probiotic foods as functional foods and had emerged as an important dietary strategy for improved human health. It had established that ice cream was a better carrier for probiotics than fermented milked due to greater stability of probiotics in ice cream matrix. Global demand for ice cream boomed and probiotic ice cream could have been one of the most demanded functional foods. The purpose of this paper was to review the technological aspects and factors affecting probiotic viability and to standardize methodology to produce functional probiotic ice cream.
Design/methodology/approach
Attempt was made to search the literature (review and researched papers) to identify diverse factors affecting the probiotic viability and major technological challenge faced during formulation of probiotic ice cream. Keywords used for data searched included dairy-based functional foods, ice cream variants, probiotic ice cream, factors affecting probiotic viability and health benefits of probiotic ice cream.
Findings
Retention of probiotic viability at a level of >106 cfu/ml is a prerequisite for functional probiotic ice creams. Functional probiotic ice cream could have been produced with the modification of basic mix and modulating technological parameters during processing and freezing. Functionality can be further enhanced with the inclusion of certain nutraceutical components such as prebiotics, antioxidant, phenolic compounds and dietary fibres. Based upon reviewed literature, suggested method for the manufacture of functional probiotic ice cream involved freezing of a probiotic ice cream mix obtained by blending 10% probiotic fermented milk with 90% non-fermented plain ice cream mix for higher probiotic viability. Probiotic ice cream with functional features, comparable with traditional ice cream in terms of technological and sensory properties could be produced and can crop up as a novel functional food.
Originality/value
Probiotic ice cream with functional features may attract food manufacturers to cater health-conscious consumers.
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Titay Zeleke, Fekadu Beyene, Temesgen Deressa, Jemal Yousuf and Temesgen Kebede
Change of climate is attributed to human activity that alters the composition of the global atmosphere observed over comparable periods. The purpose of this paper is to explore…
Abstract
Purpose
Change of climate is attributed to human activity that alters the composition of the global atmosphere observed over comparable periods. The purpose of this paper is to explore smallholder farmers' perceptions of climate change and compare it with meteorological data, as well as to identify perceived adaptation barriers and examine the factors that influence the choice of adaptation options in eastern Ethiopia.
Design/methodology/approach
In total, 384 sample households were chosen from four districts of the zone. A cross-sectional survey was used to conduct the study. Primary data was acquired through key informant interviews, focus group discussions and semistructured interviews, whereas meteorological data was collected from the National Meteorological Service Agency of Ethiopia. A Mann–Kendall statistical test was used to analyze temperature and rainfall trends over 33 years. A multivariate probit (MVP) model was used to identify the determinants of farmers' choice of climate change adaptation strategies.
Findings
The result indicated that temperature was significantly increased, whereas rainfall was significantly reduced over the time span of 33 years. This change in climate over time was consistently perceived by farmers. Smallholder farmers use improved varieties of crops, crop diversification, adjusting planting dates, soil and water conservation practices, reducing livestock holdings, planting trees and small-scale irrigation adaptation strategies. Moreover, this study indicated that sex of the household head, landholding size, livestock ownership, access to extension, access to credit, social capital, market distance, access to climate change-related training, nonfarm income, agroecological setting and poverty status of the households significantly influence farmers’ choice of adaptation strategies.
Research limitations/implications
Further research is required to evaluate the economic impact of each adaptation options on the livelihood of smallholder farmers.
Practical implications
Institutional variables significantly influenced how farmers adapted to climate change, and all of these issues might potentially be addressed by improving institutional service delivery. To improve farm-level adaptation, local authorities are recommended to investigate the institutional service provision system while also taking demographic and agroecological factors in to account.
Originality/value
This study compared farmers' perceptions with temperature and rainfall trend analysis, which has been rarely addressed by other studies. This study adopts an MVP model and indicated the adaptation strategies that complement/substitute strategies each other. Furthermore, this study discovered that the choice of adaptation options differed between poor and nonpoor households, which has been overlooked in previous climate change adaptation research.