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Article
Publication date: 20 February 2014

M. Havlová

The main aim of this paper is to estimate the influence of finishing to the permeability of woven fabrics made of multifilament threads. The property of the textile permeability…

58

Abstract

The main aim of this paper is to estimate the influence of finishing to the permeability of woven fabrics made of multifilament threads. The property of the textile permeability is closely connected with the geometric structure of the given textile materials. A very small change in the structure of the fabric at a given location causes a change in the permeability at this location. Such a change in the structure may be due to the finishing of fabric. A demanded requirement in several applications areas of textiles is the homogeneity of their physical and mechanical properties. The laboratory measurement of the fabric permeability is very suitable for assessment of uniformity across the fabric area, because the test is very simple and non-destructive. In this research a set of polyamide and polyester multifilament woven fabrics was used. These fabrics were available both in the gray state and with the various types of applied finishes.

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World Journal of Engineering, vol. 10 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1708-5284

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Article
Publication date: 16 October 2018

Virginija Daukantiene and Giedre Vadeike

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness…

399

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and standard method.

Design/methodology/approach

Investigations were performed with commercially available eight polyester knitted fabrics containing different elastane yarn proportion. Bonded seams were laminated applying the urethane thermoplastic adhesive film of 0.175 mm thickness. Bonds were laminated by heat at 5.6 kPa pressure applying pressing device GTK DEA 25 R at 140°C temperature for 40 s duration. Sewn seams were assembled with 607 covering chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density and 512 overedge chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density. Specimens without and with the seams were conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions according to the standard LST EN ISO 139 before air permeability testing according to the standard LST EN ISO 9237. Standard thickness of the investigated knitted fabric was determined according to the standard EN ISO 5084. It is known from literature that the porosity is dominant factor influencing the air permeability of knitted fabrics. Therefore, the assumption was made that due to fabric porosity knitted fabric thickness being measured at different pressures also may differ. Thus, the permeability property may also be related to the difference between fabric’s thicknesses being measured under different pressures which may be applied with different material thickness gauges.

Findings

There was shown that fabric assemblies make the significant influence on the textile permeability to air. The results obtained indicate that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Air permeability of the specimens with the seams was lower than one of specimens without the seams. The highest decrease in permeability which ranged from 19.9 per cent up to 60.0 per cent was determined for the bonds. Fabric specimens with 607 covering chain stitch seam were in the second place with regard to the previously considered parameter. And, their permeability was decreased from 0.6 per cent up to 52.6 per cent. Changes in the air permeability of the specimens with 512 overedge chain stitch seam were lowest in the range of investigated assemblies. Based on the determined results, it was concluded that the thickness difference of the specimens with and without seams measured at different pressures is related to fabric porosity which makes the significant influence on the air permeability.

Practical implications

The samples of investigated fabrics were taken from the two companies which manufactures leisure clothing and sportswear such as skiing or swimming costumes, etc. Thus, the obtained investigation results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads the improvement of clothing quality in fashion industry.

Originality/value

Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of clothing, especially of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic, but also have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere, thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, the air permeability of commercially available polyester knitted fabrics containing different amount of elastane was investigated and the influence of fabric assemblies on the air permeability property was evaluated. A new approach based on the fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and the standard methods for the evaluation of air permeability were used.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 14 May 2024

Gizem Karakan Günaydın, Erhan Kenan Çeven and Nejla Çeven

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

109

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper evaluates the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics. Twill drapery fabrics with 18 Tex linen warp yarn where two types of weft yarns were utilized respectively with the order of “A” yarn and “B” yarn. 58 Tex Lyocell Linen blended first weft yarn (A yarn) was kept constant and the second weft yarn (B yarn) varied in different yarn structures and yarn count. Thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness were measured by means of Alambeta device. Correlation matrix between the thermal properties was also displayed. Air permeability results were obtained by using SDL Atlas Digital Air Permeability Tester Model M 021 A. One way analysis of variance (ANOVA) test was performed in order to investigate the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Findings

In this paper, weft yarn type was found as a significant factor on some of the thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness and on the air permeability properties.

Originality/value

There are limited works related to evaluation of some thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 8 March 2021

Vijay Kirubakar Raj and Renuka Devi

Parachutes are equipment that is repeatedly used as and when needed. Some of them are used for as many as 60 jumps. The property of the canopy fabric gets deteriorated with use…

244

Abstract

Purpose

Parachutes are equipment that is repeatedly used as and when needed. Some of them are used for as many as 60 jumps. The property of the canopy fabric gets deteriorated with use. It is evaluated by destructive tensile and bursting strength. This study aims to focus on the nondestructive evaluation of the canopy fabric's fitness by testing air permeability and relating it with bursting strength. Predictor equations were developed to determine bursting strength from air permeability values.

Design/methodology/approach

ANOVA techniques and statistical regression equations were formed.

Findings

A series of samples containing five parachutes fabrics was used seven times, and their air permeability and bursting strength were determined to find the extent to the effect of reuse of parachute fabrics on their bursting strength and air permeability determination. It was found that there was a progressive drop in bursting strength and an increase in air permeability. An investigation of the extent of determination in terms of bursting strength and an increase in air permeability following the sense of five different types of parachute fabrics is reported.

Research limitations/implications

The work focuses on the prediction of bursting strength to textile materials only and may not apply to other materials like membranes and sheets. The process of determining air permeability is relatively simpler and faster.

Practical implications

The bursting strength can be predicted for used parachutes, which are otherwise subjected to destructive testing.

Social implications

The men using the parachutes can be assured of the superior flawless performance of the parachute as equipment and also contribute to the saving of resources due to nondestructive testing, 100% evaluation of all parachutes is possible.

Originality/value

This article describes the nature of the test procedure and discusses the means of introducing it to users of parachutes. It is accepted that the method must undergo field evaluation and possible modification before it can become a routine tool of parachute using organizations.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 14 June 2022

Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani, Salma Farooq, Quratulain Mohtashim and Hugh Gong

Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity…

87

Abstract

Purpose

Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity. During the process of dyeing, the dye liquor comes in contact with the substrate; the absorption of the dye liquor into the substrate will be dependent on its porosity. The concept of porosity between the yarns of fabric is a common phenomenon; however, the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, ring and rotor yarns of 25/s and 30/s counts are considered as textile substrates. The porosity of yarns was determined theoretically and experimentally using the image analysis method.

Findings

It was found that theoretical porosity is independent of the yarn manufacturing method. In addition, 30/s yarn was more porous as compared with 25/s yarn having a higher pore area. Rotor yarns had higher porosity, dye fixation and K/S as compared with ring yarns. Dyeing behaviour was also dependent on the count of yarn. Specifically, 30/s yarns have higher dye fixation as compared with 25/s yarns. However, 25/s yarns were dyed with deeper shades showing higher K/S values. Also, 25/s yarns are coarser than 30/s yarns having higher diameters and cross-sectional area, thus resulting in deeper shades and higher K/S values.

Originality/value

This novel technique is based on the comparative study of the porosity of various types of yarns using the image analysis technique. This investigation shows that the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the yarn.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

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Article
Publication date: 20 October 2021

Marco Reggiani

This paper aims to shed light on current initiatives of urban regeneration around the Shibuya Station area within the context of contemporary Tokyo’s place development strategies…

979

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to shed light on current initiatives of urban regeneration around the Shibuya Station area within the context of contemporary Tokyo’s place development strategies. The objectives are twofold: to illustrate the characteristics of the plans and the planning approaches framing the interventions; and to identify the strategies employed to reshape the cityscape.

Design/methodology/approach

Using a case study approach, this paper combines data from historical and archival research, as well as policy documents and plans. These are supplemented by data from extensive fieldwork undertaken between 2015 and 2019 to critically assess and interpret the implemented policies and the outcomes of the regeneration.

Findings

The paper provides insight into the ongoing urban regeneration around the Shibuya Station area and identifies five key themes that summarise the strategies employed to transform the urban landscape in the area. Despite the apparent success and some innovations introduced by the redevelopment project, critical issues remain–especially around the privatisation of public space and the lack of a holistic approach to sustainability.

Originality/value

The paper examines a significant and timely case of urban regeneration. By critically discussing the implications of the redevelopment around Shibuya Station in the context of Tokyo’s current place development strategies, the study highlights the importance of an inclusive notion of sustainable development and contributes to the debate around Japanese urbanism and urban regeneration.

Details

Journal of Place Management and Development, vol. 15 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1753-8335

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Article
Publication date: 23 July 2019

Colin Higgins, Wendy Stubbs, Dale Tweedie and Gregory McCallum

Motivated by Morgan’s (1997) analysis of the “paradoxical” role of metaphors in understanding and managing organisations, the purpose of this paper is to assess in what respects…

2241

Abstract

Purpose

Motivated by Morgan’s (1997) analysis of the “paradoxical” role of metaphors in understanding and managing organisations, the purpose of this paper is to assess in what respects organisations using integrated reporting (IR) are on a “journey” of organisational change.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper analyses IR practitioner literature to interpret the IR journey metaphor more precisely. The authors then use in-depth interviews to assess the extent to which this metaphor captures how six early adopter organisations in Australia implement IR, and what changes result, over four years.

Findings

The journey metaphor implies substantive and holistic organisational change. By contrast, the authors find organisations use IR in contextual, instrumental and piecemeal ways. The authors propose a “toolbox” metaphor to help (re)present how organisations adapt their reporting to fit decisions already made, and challenges presented, through ordinary and ongoing strategic management.

Research limitations/implications

Morgan (1997) stresses metaphors are invariably used to both describe and manage organisations. The authors’ analysis identifies specific ways the IR journey metaphor is descriptively misleading. The authors’ “toolbox” metaphor suggests different ways organisations are, or could, manage IR to create value.

Originality/value

This is the first paper to provide a systematic analysis of the IR journey metaphors, and to assess in what respects this metaphor captures actual organisational practice. The findings also challenge the broader notion in academic research that reporting frameworks can lead organisational change.

Details

Accounting, Auditing & Accountability Journal, vol. 32 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0951-3574

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Article
Publication date: 31 October 2018

Ludek Broz and Tereza Stöckelová

The purpose of this paper is to contribute to the body of knowledge on how research evaluation in different national and organisational contexts affects, often in unintended ways…

1199

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to contribute to the body of knowledge on how research evaluation in different national and organisational contexts affects, often in unintended ways, research and publication practices. In particular, it looks at the development of book publication in the social sciences and humanities (SSH) in the Czech Republic since 2004, when a performance-based system of evaluation was introduced, up to the present.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper builds upon ethnographic research complemented by the analysis of Czech science policy documents, data available in the governmental database “Information Register of R&D results” and formal and informal interviews with expert evaluators and other stakeholders in the research system. It further draws on the authors’ own experience as scholars, who have also over the years participated in a number of evaluation procedures as peers and experts.

Findings

The number of books published by researchers in SSH based at Czech institutions has risen considerably in reaction to the pressure for productivity that is inscribed into the evaluation methodology and has resulted in the rise of in-house publishing by researchers’ own research institution, “fake internationalisation” using foreign low-quality presses as the publication venue, and the development of a culture of orphaned books that have no readers.

Practical implications

In the Czech Republic robust and internationally harmonised bibliometric data regarding books would definitely help to create a form of research evaluation that would stimulate meaningful scholarly book production. At the same time, better-resourced and better-designed peer review evaluation is needed.

Originality/value

This is the first attempt to analyse in detail the conditions and consequences the Czech performance-based research evaluation system has for SSH book publication. The paper demonstrates that often discussed harming of SSH and book-writing in particular by performance-based IF-centred research evaluation does not necessarily manifest in declining numbers of publications. On the contrary, the number of books published may increase at the cost of producing more texts of questionable scholarly quality.

Details

Aslib Journal of Information Management, vol. 70 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2050-3806

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Article
Publication date: 7 June 2018

Merve Kılıç and Cemil Kuzey

This paper aims to investigate the adherence level of current company reports to the International Integrated Reporting Council (IIRC) integrated reporting framework through…

3892

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate the adherence level of current company reports to the International Integrated Reporting Council (IIRC) integrated reporting framework through analysis of whether and to what extent those reports include the content elements of this framework. This study also aims to examine the impact of corporate sustainability characteristics on the adherence level of current company reports to the integrated reporting framework.

Design/methodology/approach

The sample for this research comprises the non-financial companies which were listed on Borsa Istanbul, the Turkish stock exchange, as of 31 December 2015. The authors constructed a disclosure index based on the content elements of the IIRC reporting framework. They then measured the integrated reporting disclosure score (IRS) of each company through a manual content analysis of its annual reports and stand-alone sustainability reports. To test the hypotheses, the authors performed a number of statistical analyses.

Findings

The authors determined that current company reports mainly present generic risks rather than company-specific; provide positive information while dismissing negative information; present financial and non-financial initiatives separately; lack a strategic focus; and include backward-looking information rather than forward-looking information. Consistent with the predictions, the authors found that the IRS is significantly and positively associated with sustainability reporting, Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) adoption, sustainability index listing and the presence of a sustainability committee.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the literature by enhancing the understanding of integrated reporting practices through the application of a checklist based upon the IIRC integrated reporting framework. Further, this study contributes to the literature by evaluating the impact of corporate sustainability characteristics on IRS.

Details

Meditari Accountancy Research, vol. 26 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2049-372X

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Article
Publication date: 30 March 2022

Diego Andrés Correa-Mejía

This study aims to identify the impacts of corporate governance (CG) and institutional context on multilatinas’ corporate reporting quality (CRQ). CG and institutional context…

322

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to identify the impacts of corporate governance (CG) and institutional context on multilatinas’ corporate reporting quality (CRQ). CG and institutional context facilitate the reduction of agency problems and the existence of accountability processes that minimize information asymmetries.

Design/methodology/approach

A panel data model was developed from a sample of 77 multilatinas studied during the 2014–2020 period. Different estimations were carried out through the panel data model to identify the impact of CG and institutional context on CRQ.

Findings

It is evidenced that appropriate CG structure has a positive impact on multilatinas’ CRQ. In addition, each country’s regulatory quality is confirmed to have a positive effect on firms to produce higher-quality reports.

Practical implications

This research provides empirical support to what is put forward by agency and stakeholder theory regarding the role that CG and institutional context play in reducing information asymmetries and improving accountability processes to all stakeholders in the Latin American context.

Originality/value

This study contributes original results to the existing literature. Unlike previous works, the present research analyzed multilatinas facing social and political contexts that differ from those of multinationals from developed countries. Different ways of reporting were also covered, going beyond traditional ways of evaluating CRQ – which generally take the sustainability report as a basis.

Details

Corporate Governance: The International Journal of Business in Society, vol. 22 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1472-0701

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