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Article
Publication date: 1 May 2005

Ludovic Koehl, Ting Chen, Philippe Vroman and Xianyi Zeng

This paper, which deals with the forecasting of nonwovens end-uses, is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for measuring the structures of nonwovens…

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Abstract

This paper, which deals with the forecasting of nonwovens end-uses, is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for measuring the structures of nonwovens. The raw data are extracted directly from 3D images of the accurate topographic surfaces of the materials and also from other instruments. Next, data analysis techniques are applied to select relevant structural parameters and forecast the expected end-uses of nonwovens. Relevant physical features are selected by integrating measured data and the knowledge of experts. The effectiveness of these methods has been shown through a number of nonwoven products designed for filtration.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Available. Content available
Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

Xianyi Zeng and Ludovic Koehl

636

Abstract

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

M. Dimassi, L. Koehl, X. Zeng and A. Peruwelz

The knowledge of structural parameters of nonwovens media is poorly understood. The pores size distribution (PSD) function is one of those parameters. The difficulty is not only…

668

Abstract

Purpose

The knowledge of structural parameters of nonwovens media is poorly understood. The pores size distribution (PSD) function is one of those parameters. The difficulty is not only the understanding of the distribution of pores but also the identification of pores geometry distribution (PGD) and their behaviour concerning the dynamic fluid transportation. The purpose of this paper is to present an efficient and reliable method based on image analysis which on one hand, performs the estimation of the PSD function and takes into account the geometric aspect of pores, and on the other hand, analyses liquid wicking in very thin filter media.

Design/methodology/approach

The proposed methods, in this paper, are applied on thin filter media made of polyester. The samples have not sudden any treatment. The authors set up an optical test bed in order to observe the dynamic properties of the samples. Dynamic raw data about the liquid wicking are extracted directly from video sequences using the appropriate test bed. The structural parameters are extracted from the non‐wetted samples.

Findings

Obtained results allow a better understanding of the liquid wicking in very thin filter media. In addition to the PSD function, the PGD function adds informations about the shape of pores. The dynamic data of the liquid wicking explains that pores have different behaviour when liquid reached them. It can be deduced from this study that the fluid transport in the pore network is defined by three main parameters: geometric parameter (size, shape), capillary action and pores connection in the network.

Research limitations/implications

The led back‐lighting system is not sufficient to observe precisely the liquid wicking. An additional front‐lighting will be added in further studies.

Originality/value

The extraction of dynamic properties from video sequences, by performing image analysis is an original method to characterise the porosity in thin media filter.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

M.A. Nazarboland, X. Chen, J.W.S. Hearle, R. Lydon and M. Moss

This paper aims to discuss the development of a software tool UniverFilter™ which is capable of geometrical modelling of 3D woven fabrics, interfacing with computational fluid…

969

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to discuss the development of a software tool UniverFilter™ which is capable of geometrical modelling of 3D woven fabrics, interfacing with computational fluid dynamics tools to numerically determine the fluid (and more specifically liquid) flow path and simulating the filtration process by introducing particles of various shapes and sizes.

Design/methodology/approach

The method employed in creating the software tool is based on geometrical modelling of the single‐layer woven fabric with monofilament yarns, numerical analysis of the fluid‐flow problem, and mathematical modelling of the forces exerted on particles to accurately predict the settlement of such particles on the fabric. In the case of particle motion, a Lagrangian approach is used.

Findings

Creation of a software tool capable of simulation and modelling the filtration process through woven fabrics is the primary achievement. The effect of geometrical parameters of the woven fabric on fluid flow utilizing the results from fluid pressure and fluid velocity on the fabric show that the fluid flow is significantly influenced in the interstices and chamber downstream by the fabric. Fluid‐flow resistance and pressure loss are obtained from the results of fluid velocity and pressure. The results from the fluid pressure on the fabric could also be employed to more accurately predict how pore shapes and sizes are transformed.

Originality/value

Creation of a modelling tool for filtration through woven fabric media. This software is the foundation of establishing a standalone tool with the capability to design, test and improve fabric filter design for more efficient filtration properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

Yan Chen and Zhi‐ge Chen

The research documented in this paper aims to identify the components and characters of color perception and to establish the basis for color perception description and evaluation.

2773

Abstract

Purpose

The research documented in this paper aims to identify the components and characters of color perception and to establish the basis for color perception description and evaluation.

Design/methodology/approach

Ten pairs of antonyms obtained on the basis of investigation were suggested to evaluate the perception of color. About 15 color samples were prepared for subjective evaluation. The factorial analysis method and artificial neural network were applied to analyze the evaluation results given by professionals and to establish the objective basis for color perception evaluation.

Findings

The color perceptions could be distinguished by word pairs. These word pairs were grouped according to the perception characteristics. The relation between color parameters and color perception could be established by artificial neural network technique.

Research limitations/implications

The results showed in this paper were obtained on the limited number of samples.

Originality/value

The principle of color perception was investigated on the subjective evaluation of color samples. The relation between color parameters and color perception was established and could be applied for reference of clothing color design.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

Ying Wang, Yan Chen and Zhi‐ge Chen

The research in this paper aims to investigate the perception created by clothing style and semantic space to describe this perception. The results of study could be applied to…

648

Abstract

Purpose

The research in this paper aims to investigate the perception created by clothing style and semantic space to describe this perception. The results of study could be applied to establish relation between customers' feelings and design elements.

Design/methodology/approach

Women's overcoats were chosen as research objects. The technique of sensory engineering was applied to investigate the customers' feelings and demands related to product images. Card system, shape analytical method, and regression analysis were applied in this research.

Findings

Six word‐pair were selected to establish the semantic space. The product elements space with seven items and 25 categories was established. The relation between two spaces could be quantified according to the principle of sensory engineering.

Research limitations/implications

The findings can be applied to women's overcoat and similar clothing for customer‐orientated design.

Originality/value

The theory of sensory engineering was applied for practical application purposes. Some useful parameters were obtained to explain the reliability of the research results and influences of design elements on perception judgment.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

Yu Chen, Xianyi Zeng, Michel Happiette, Pascal Bruniaux, Royer Ng and Winnie Yu

The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

1460

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

Design/methodology/approach

The current method first generates a number of fuzzy models each corresponding to one specific key body part and one specific wearer's movement and then aggregates all the values of ease allowance generated from these fuzzy models using the ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operator. The aggregated ease allowance takes into account geometric measures on all representative human bodies, comfort sensations of wearers related to all movements or actions and different styles of trousers (tight, normal and loose). The weights of the OWA operator can be used to adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are automatically determined according to designer's linguistic criteria characterizing the relationship between wearer's movements and the features of the garment to be designed.

Findings

Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, the authors obtain a personalized ease allowance, permitting to further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment. The effectiveness of the method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can also be applied for designing other types of garment.

Originality/value

Integration of wearer's body shapes and human comfort in the design of personalized garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 14 June 2011

Gaurav Agarwal, Ludovic Koehl and Anne Perwvelz

The purpose of this paper is to examine the influence of ageing and the use of fabric softener during the life cycle of knitted fabrics.

527

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to examine the influence of ageing and the use of fabric softener during the life cycle of knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The low‐stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric (KES‐F) and universal surface tester (UST) revealing that the tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties were altered by both ageing during the wash cycles and the use of fabric softener.

Findings

Machine laundering leaves fabrics with an uncomfortable hand due to the removal of finishes and the harsh mechanical action of laundering, and results in the change in mechanical properties of the fabrics.

Originality/value

The paper identifies the critical mechanical parameters which are influenced by ageing and the use of fabric softeners during life cycle of garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 23 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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