In the last two decades, the fashion value chain traveled to developing parts of the world. To these nations, it paved a path for socio-economic development initially but lately…
Abstract
Purpose
In the last two decades, the fashion value chain traveled to developing parts of the world. To these nations, it paved a path for socio-economic development initially but lately, the aftermath has costed more. This article visualizes the gains and losses of fast fashion to these countries.
Design/methodology/approach
An in-depth systematic literature review was performed to analyze the secondary data from academic journals and reports from international organizations. The authors have compiled their empirical journeys in academia, research and industry from low- and middle-income countries (LMICs) based on Schon's (1983, 1990) theory of reflective practice. Further on, the article is structured using the value chain analysis (VCA) method which visualizes the aftermath of mass-producing fashion for the developed countries.
Findings
In this research it was found that LMICs have made substantial economic progress in the past two decades, however at a high social and environmental cost. It is the right time to find a balance between economic development and harm caused to the citizens of these nations.
Originality/value
At the moment the existing academic literature talks about unsustainable practices in the fashion sector around the world. This research precisely targets the LMICs where the aftermath is supposed to be much more severe. Further, it provides solutions and urges these nations to bring a substantial change throughout the value chain for a robust future.
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Karan Khurana and Ruth Tadesse
This paper aims to highlight the relevance of second-hand clothing (SHC) in the Ethiopian textile and apparel value chain by investigating its potential and establishing a connect…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to highlight the relevance of second-hand clothing (SHC) in the Ethiopian textile and apparel value chain by investigating its potential and establishing a connect to sustainability from a consumption point of view.
Design/methodology/approach
Primary and secondary methods of research were used in this research. Structured observational technique was used to identify the retailers in the city. In total, 70 retailers of SHC were identified and 15 big size retailers were interviewed with open end questions through judgment sampling method.
Findings
From the analysis of the field research and scientific literature, the authors strongly believe that SHC has an important space in the consumer retail segment of the country. This trade remains in the shadow but is sustaining livelihoods of citizens. The SHC trade provides an automatic balance to the future excessive consumption which is a result of mass production and hence should be encouraged further on various dimensions.
Originality/value
Existing literature exhibits statistics of the trade and impact in East African Community (EAC) missing out on Ethiopia as it is not a member of the EAC. Moreover a connection of SHC to sustainability established has never been established in the past for under-developing countries, and it is one of the critical factors in the success of used clothing and future of textile and apparel business. This research also provides channelized solutions to the business for smooth implementation of SHC in Ethiopia and other under-developing countries.
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Karan Khurana and Zamira Ataniyazova
Uzbekistan is one of the most prominent cotton producers since the soviet era, but it has struggled to establish a complete value chain. The country’s strategic location and…
Abstract
Purpose
Uzbekistan is one of the most prominent cotton producers since the soviet era, but it has struggled to establish a complete value chain. The country’s strategic location and industrial potential have not been harnessed accordingly. This paper aims to critically investigate the barriers in the value chain and propose solutions to the stakeholders in the sector.
Design/methodology/approach
The research involves both primary and secondary research methods. Value chain analysis method has been implemented to ground the theories and results. A systematic literature review was conducted to understand the current position in the world market. Official statistical data was collected from the government bodies to support the reflections of academic literature. Primary data was collected by conducting in-depth semi-structured interviews and questionnaires in 50 local textile companies. Finally, the authors have used their empirical evidences from emerging economies to provide solutions to the sector.
Findings
The value chain suffers a disconnect, as the emphasis has been on exporting cotton. Moreover, companies have a very limited technical know-how of supply chain management and hence no value addition to the raw material. The consumer relies on imports, as there is no significant participation from the Uzbek companies across the fashion segments. This is a major loss of earnings to the country.
Originality/value
Existing academic literature revolves around the cotton and silk industry, but, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, there is no study that unites the value chain and provides solutions to its stakeholders. This paper provides a socio-economic vision to the stakeholders, academia and industry so that the country can harness its potential and become one of the leading apparel producing nations in the future.
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One of the oldest civilizations of Africa, Ethiopia is today at the advent of industrialization in various business sectors. Agriculture being a primary source of income (50 per…
Abstract
Purpose
One of the oldest civilizations of Africa, Ethiopia is today at the advent of industrialization in various business sectors. Agriculture being a primary source of income (50 per cent of the GDP) is now transforming into more dynamic and new sectors. Textile and apparel is one of the sectors that has received a lot of attention from the government and the objective is to become sourcing destinations of the world. The purpose of the paper is to provide an overview of the current advances to the stakeholders, academia and industry from concept to the consumer. The aim of the paper is to present a transition of advances made in textile and apparel business that the country has made in the past decade and also to examine the potential of the consumer for this country. The consumer in the country is young and brings a lot of novel opportunities for textile and apparel industry.
Design/methodology/approach
This analysis is an empirical journey of the author’s research in academia and textile and apparel industry in Ethiopia.
Findings
This paper establishes a connection between the stakeholders, academia, industry and beneficiaries of this business so that it could become a guideline for future business investors. It also highlights the problems within this sector and provides a clear idea for domestic companies to compete with global competitors in terms of upcoming future business trends.
Originality/value
Presently, in the atmosphere of fashion and textiles, there is air about Ethiopia being the next manufacturing hub of the world in Africa. However, no academic literature is available which summarizes the opportunities and tasks in this industry, and this paper caters to the need of the hour.
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Karan Khurana and Marco Ricchetti
The purpose of this paper is to trace developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over two decades and identify the drivers that progressively changed…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to trace developments in the fashion business commitment to sustainability over two decades and identify the drivers that progressively changed fashion brands’ perspective on sustainable supply chain management.
Design/methodology/approach
The research methodology is in the lines of Donald Schon reflective practice. Reflection-on-action is based on one of the authors practice in consultancy to fashion companies and in dialog with NGOs. The professional experience has been reconsidered through the analysis of the literature on sustainability initiatives and review of case histories.
Findings
The time span considered captures fashion brands sustainability awareness in its statu nascenti (nascent state) revealing a trial and error process that led to progressive refinements of both means and ends. Change drivers identified are: go beyond monitoring, adopt a comprehensive approach, look beyond first tier of suppliers, integrate sustainability to core business practices and bring transparency to the supply chain.
Originality/value
Existing literature surveys show that authors used to focus on specific issues and concentrate on individual case studies, under-representing the complex set of factors that companies, institutions and NGOs address, including the effect of past decisions, successes and mistakes. The paper is a first step to fill the gap and provides an up-to-date overview of current developments aimed at both scholars and practitioners, especially CSR and marketing managers and NGOs campaigners.
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Iris Stuart, Yong-Chul Shin, Donald P. Cram and Vijay Karan
The use of choice-based, matched, and other stratified sample designs is common in auditing research. However, it is not widely appreciated that the data analysis for these…
Abstract
The use of choice-based, matched, and other stratified sample designs is common in auditing research. However, it is not widely appreciated that the data analysis for these studies has to take into account the non-random nature of sample selection in these designs. A choice-based, matched or otherwise stratified sample is a nonrandom sample that must be analyzed using conditional analysis techniques. We review five research streams in the auditing area. These streams include work on determinants of audit litigation, audit fees, auditor reporting in financially distressed firms, audit quality and auditor switches. Cram, Karan, and Stuart (CKS) (2009) demonstrated the accuracy of conditional analysis, compared to unconditional analysis, of nonrandom samples through the use of simulations, replications, and mathematical proofs. Papers since published have continued to rely upon questionable research, however, and it is hard for researchers to identify what is the reliability of a given work. We complement and extend CKS (2009) by identifying audit papers in selected research streams whose results will likely differ if the data gathered are analyzed using conditional analysis techniques. Thus research can be advanced either by replication and reanalysis, or by refocus of new research upon issues that should no longer be viewed as settled.
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Mohammadreza Akbari and Robert McClelland
The purpose of this research is to provide a systematic insight into corporate social responsibility (CSR) and corporate citizenship (CC) in supply chain development, by analyzing…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this research is to provide a systematic insight into corporate social responsibility (CSR) and corporate citizenship (CC) in supply chain development, by analyzing the current literature, contemporary concepts, data and gaps for future discipline research.
Design/methodology/approach
This research identifies information from existing academic journals and investigates research designs and methods, data analysis techniques, industry involvement and geographic locations. Information regarding university affiliation, publishers, authors, year of publication is also documented. A collection of online databases from 2001 to 2018 were explored, using the keywords “corporate social responsibility”, “corporate citizenship” and “supply chain” in their title and abstract, to deliver an inclusive listing of journal articles in this discipline area. Based on this approach, a total of 164 articles were found, and information on a chain of variables was collected.
Findings
There has been visible growth in published articles over the last 18 years regarding supply chain sustainability, CSR and CC. Analysis of the data collected shows that only five literature reviews have been published in this area. Further, key findings include 41% of publications were narrowly focused on four sectors of industry, leaving gaps in the research. 85% centered on the survey and conceptual model, leaving an additional gap for future research. Finally, developing and developed nation status should be delineated, researched and analyzed based on further segmentation of the industry by region.
Research limitations/implications
This research is limited to reviewing only academic and professional articles available from Emerald, Elsevier, Wiley, Sage, Taylor and Francis, Springer, Scopus, JSTOR and EBSCO containing the words “corporate social responsibility”, “corporate citizenship” and “supply chain” in the title and abstract.
Originality/value
This assessment provides an enhanced appreciation of the current practices of current research and offers further directions within the CSR and CC in supply chain sustainable development.
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Josep Garcia-Blandon, Josep Maria Argiles Bosch and Monica Martinez-Blasco
This chapter investigates whether earnings management activities increase the likelihood of receiving a qualified audit report. We have carried out this study with a sample of…
Abstract
This chapter investigates whether earnings management activities increase the likelihood of receiving a qualified audit report. We have carried out this study with a sample of Spanish companies for the period 2001–2009. Previous research on the issue is not only scarce but also suffers from methodological pitfalls. In all cases, researchers have followed a matched sample approach without considering the implications of such approach for the statistical analysis. Despite its great popularity among researchers in accounting, the use of matched-based sampling is susceptible to produce technical errors in the statistical analysis. The main problem consists in the generalization of results obtained with a nonrandom sample to the whole population of firms. Our results do not show a significant relationship between EM and qualified audit reports. We have also addressed whether the international financial crisis has affected our results and concluded that Spanish companies seem to have used EM during the crisis to push down earnings, probably expecting to take advantage of the positive earnings surprises during the postcrisis period. Nevertheless, the financial crisis has not changed the nature of the EM-qualified opinions relationship.
Waris Ali, Jeffrey Wilson and Muhammad Husnain
This article conducts a thorough review and synthesis of the empirical research on the antecedents of stock price crash risk to ascertain the macro-, meso- and micro-level…
Abstract
Purpose
This article conducts a thorough review and synthesis of the empirical research on the antecedents of stock price crash risk to ascertain the macro-, meso- and micro-level determinants contributing to stock price crashes.
Design/methodology/approach
The authors systematically reviewed 85 empirical papers published in ABS-ranked journals to assess the macro-, meso- and micro-level determinants causing stock price crashes.
Findings
The findings indicate that macroeconomic factors such as corporate governance, political and legal factors, socioeconomic indicators and religious beliefs have an effect on firm-level corporate behavior contributing to stock price crash risk. At a meso-level customer concentration, industry-level characteristics, media coverage, structural features of ownership and behavioral factors have a substantial effect on stock price crash risk. Finally, micro-level variables influencing stock market crash risk include CEO qualities and compensation, business policies, earnings management, financial transparency, managerial characteristics and firm-specific variables.
Research limitations/implications
Based on our analysis we identify priority areas for future research.
Originality/value
This is a seminal work using a multilevel framework to categorize the determinants of stock price crashes into micro-, meso- and macro-level factors.
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Pingying Zhang, Paul Fadil and Chris Baynard
The purpose of this paper is to better understand dependency issues between the CEO and the board as well as the between the board and CEO through Emerson’s power dependency…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to better understand dependency issues between the CEO and the board as well as the between the board and CEO through Emerson’s power dependency framework.
Design/methodology/approach
A symbolic management approach is integrated with a board-CEO power dependency model to study the dependency issues.
Findings
According to the symbolic management perspective, uncertainty increases the likelihood of symbolic actions. A high level of uncertainty in CEO dependency issues suggests a high likelihood that board power over the CEO is manifested on a symbolic level, whereas a low level of uncertainty in board dependency issues suggests otherwise for CEO power over the board. The core of board-dependency issues is information provision.
Practical implications
A focus on improving board control over CEO performance, compensation and strategic proposals is likely to generate symbolic actions without an effective result.
Originality/value
The paper advocates that an effective approach to enhance board power is through reducing board information dependency on the CEO.