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Camera‐based colour measurement systems have application where it is difficult to apply a contact instrument, or where the contact instrument, because of its fixed lighting geometry, does not provide the necessary data. The paper describes the principles, procedures and precautions necessary for camera based colorimetry. Equations are presented to convert digitised R G and B values, which are system specific, into CIE X Y Z colour values, an international standard method of colour specification. It is reported that colours spaced equally in RGB values appear to have visual colour difference steps varying in size by as much as 30:1 through the different regions. The poorest colour resolution occurs for RGB values that represent dark or strongly coloured shades. At least ten bits per channel digitisation of RGB values is required to achieve a colour resolution similar to the human visual system for dark, intense shades.

Thermoplastic polymer fabrics are normally heat set to make them dimensionally stable. These fabrics in garment panel form may again be exposed to heat during the processes such as bonding, sublimation printing and cause to change their dimensions. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the response of polyester yarns in knitted fabrics to heat setting and post-heat treatments.

In this study, the thermal shrinkage behaviour of heat set polyester knitted fabrics when subjected to post-heat treatment processes are analyzed using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and analysis of fabric shrinkage. DSC is a thermo-analytical technique that measures the difference in the amount of heat needed to increase the temperature of the sample and the reference. A heat flux versus temperature curve is one of the results of a DSC experiment. The polymer structure and morphology of polyester heat-treated and post-heat–treated fabrics were determined by examining the DSC thermograms.

Heat setting and post-heat setting causes the effective temperature of polyester to change. Effective temperature occurred around 160°C for fabrics heat set at low temperatures and increases as the heat setting temperature increases. Post-heat treatments cause to elevate the effective temperature. Shrinkage of fabrics below the effective temperature is not statistically significant while the shrinkage at higher temperatures is significant. Effective temperature is the main determinant of thermal shrinkage behaviour of polyester.

The study reveals the significance of the effective temperature of polyester on heat treatments and post-heat treatments. The study revealed that heat-setting temperature is a primary determinant of the thermal stability of polyester fabric that are subjected to heat treatments.

The ink industry is as old as the written word. It touches our lives from the newspapers we read, the advertising we see, the carpet we walk on, the car fascia boards with which we are presented, the fluorescnet signs on shops and buildings, right through to the life saving messages on fire extinguishers. More recently inks have been used in the highest technology with circuit boards which really are “printed” circuits. Throughout the range of technology from the lowest and oldest to the highest and most modern, ink, the ink industry and printing plays a formidable part.

This study aims to use hexanediol, pentaerythritol and keratin as crosslinking agents on the acrylic fabric used as garments.

Plain 1/1 acrylic fabric was produced with 14 and 11 weft yarn/cm using yarn count 28/2 Ne, then it was modified with different agents, and the effect of crosslinking on some of the inherent properties was determined. The color strength as well as washing fastness was evaluated. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy determined the changes that acted in the structure of the treated acrylic fabrics. Several physical and functional utility characteristics were studied such as stiffness, crease recovery, tensile strength and elongation, pilling, air permeability, absorbency and static electricity.

Polyacrylonitrile is one of the man-made materials used in the textile field; despite novel characteristics, it has some negative properties, especially in absorbency and pilling, which are improved after treatment.

The results presented that the different conditions that were used with cross-linkers enhanced the acrylic fabrics properties. Where analysis of variance test at P-value 0.05 and radar chart area offered that the treated acrylic fabric with 5% (w/v) keratin accomplished the highest preferable properties for end use.

This research aims to explore the impact of augmented reality (AR), the digital technology that superimposes virtual elements in a real environment, on consumers in the context of experiential marketing. Specifically, this study proposes a research model based on the stimulus-organism-response model, which considers AR media characteristics as external stimuli, consumers’ value perceptions as the organisms, and purchase intentions as the responses. The research model was tested with 248 consumers using structural equation modelling. The results show that informativeness, ease of use, and telepresence have positive effects on consumers’ utilitarian value perception and that telepresence and interactivity have positive effects on hedonic value perception. Overall, this study contributes to the growing body of knowledge on AR and provides actionable insights for managers implementing digital transformation strategies and AR applications in marketing practices.

The shortage of grain, reflected by an increase in the rate of extraction in milling and then by the rationing of bread, has fully aroused the attention which it warrants. Avoidance of wastage, always important, now becomes imperative. In view of this, notes in connection with the occurrence of “rope” in bread which were recently made available to members of the baking industry by the Ministry of Food may be even more important than the warnings issued in previous years. The disease is associated with warm weather and develops most rapidly at about 100°F. The first of the symptoms is usually the development in the bread of a faint fruity odour, resembling that of an over‐ripe pineapple, which becomes more intense as the bread gets older. Discolouration and softening of the crumb next occurs, so that on attempting to cut the bread it tends to stick to the knife. When the crumb is pulled apart, fine gelatinous threads may be formed. Although an outbreak of “rope” is unpleasant, there is fortunately little or no evidence that such an occurrence is dangerous to health. The disease can of course occur in cakes and similar bakery products, but outbreaks are practically always confined to bread. The comparative immunity of cakes is probably due to a generally lower moisture content, which does not encourage development of the disease. Another possibility is that fruit, where present, may cause the development of a certain amount of acid, and acid conditions discourage the activity of the organism responsible for the trouble. “Rope” in bread is caused by the spore‐forming bacterium B. mesentericus. It has been suggested the disease is due to the decomposition of the starch by amylase, in which the organism is rich. There are several strains of this bacterium, which is of widespread occurrence—it is found, for example, in the soil. All kinds of flour, whether of high or of low extraction, and including those derived from cereals other than wheat, are possible carriers of the disease. However, carefully‐conducted experiments have shown that the “rope” spore content of the flour, unless particularly high, is of minor significance when outbreaks of “rope” occur. Far more important are the conditions under which the bread is made and under which it is treated after baking. It has been found that “rope” formation is more likely to develop in the dense crumb associated with under‐fermentation than in loaves in which the crumb is well‐developed. Use of sufficient yeast to cause the fermentation to be vigorous has also been found to be beneficial. The initial development of the organism appears to be at the expense of the soluble nitrogen compounds, sugars, etc., present in the bread. When these materials are exhausted, attack upon the protein of the loaf proceeds. A possibility is that prolonged fermentation causes a partial transformation of the gluten into nitrogenous substances which are more easily assimilated by the bacteria, whereas in a short, vigorous fermentation the formation of such substances may not occur to the same extent. Occurrences of the disease may be expected to be more severe with high extraction flours or whole‐meals, since higher extraction gives a medium which is better suited for the growth of the “rope”‐causing organism. All the members of the mesentericus group are characterised by the formation of spores which are extremely difficult to destroy by heating. For example, the spores can resist the temperature of boiling water for hours on end. Since the interior of a loaf probably does not exceed this temperature whilst in the oven, many of the spores will escape destruction. The spores will thus pass through the operation of baking and, if conditions are favourable, the development of the disease will start at or near the middle of the loaf. Since the damp, soggy crumb associated with an under‐baked loaf is conducive to the development of “rope,” thorough baking is a definite advantage. Owing to the fact that the “rope” organism requires warmth for its growth, rapid and thorough cooling of the bread in well‐ventilated cooling rooms is an important preventative factor. Spacing upon the racks should be such that the loaves do not touch, and the latter should not be packed whilst warm into delivery vans. Cleanliness is also of vital importance. Odd scraps of bread, dried dough, etc., may contain the spores of the organism and contact of the loaves with such material will lead to contamination which may bring to nought the preventative efforts made in other directions. Since the “rope” organism does not like acidity, addition to the bread dough of acidic substances is a useful deterrent. Acetic acid and acid calcium phosphate are particularly useful in this connection, since the requisite concentrations of these substances do not cause deterioration in bread quality. Bakeries with sackages below 100 per week may obtain without permit acetic acid solution of strength suitable for immediate addition. For larger users, the acid is supplied in a more concentrated form against a permit obtainable from the Directorate of Molasses and Industrial Alcohol, and is diluted before adding to the mixing. Though acetic acid or acid calcium phosphate may be used to suppress outbreaks or as preventatives during exceptional conditions, supplies of these agents are insufficient to enable them to be used continually as general preventatives during hot weather. For this purpose, the “acid dough” process of the British Arkady Co. Ltd., which requires no special materials, is recommended by the Ministry of Food. A small batch of “starter” dough is first prepared and is then incorporated into a larger mixing of “acid dough.” Portions of the latter are then added to the main mixing of bread dough, no alteration in the other constituents of the latter being required. Once the “acid dough” has been prepared, daily supplies may be kept up for months. A portion of the dough from the previous day is used as a starter for the new mixing, and from the second day onwards the “acid dough” becomes a fairly‐stabilised producer of acid.

In the “dry” state, pigment particles are held together by attraction forces of various physical chemical natures including the van der Waals force and the “liquid bridge” force. These attraction forces must be overcome in order to disperse pigment particles into liquid media. Dispersion machinery is designed to generate energy required to overcome, to various extents, such attraction forces. On the other hand, the efficiency of dispersion operation is significantly dependent upon the effectiveness of the transfer of energy from the dispersion tools/dispersion charges to the oversized pigment particles, as a result of the presence of the adhesion and cohesion within the dispersion system. This paper explores the nature and the significance of various forces between pigment particles and of the adhesion and cohesion phenomena associated with pigment dispersion, from a practical point of view. Principles relevant to improving the efficiency of pigment dispersion via minimisation of the adhesion between pigment particles and via maximisation of the adhesion and cohesion within the dispersion system are also discussed.

The purpose of this paper is to address the key variables that determine the level of control of color in a typical textile supply chain, including lighting variability, color perception, and color measurement.

A fishbone diagram is used to demonstrate the wide range of variables that affect the control and communication of color within the textile supply chain.

It is important to identify the important parameters and variables that influence the control of color within various stages of the textile supply chain. In regard to visual assessment variability, the results obtained in an ongoing study at North Carolina State University based on the psychophysical testing of 50 observers demonstrate a statistical difference for visual judgments of small color differences between naïve and expert observers. Results of a paired t‐test between the second and the third trial conducted by naïve observers indicate that the repetition of the visual observations significantly affects the assessment of small color differences.

Assessment of lighting measurements of several stores in the USA demonstrate variability in lighting, with many stores having at least two different light sources. This variability, in combination with uncontrolled lighting from external windows and entrance/exit areas, can lead to significant variability in the color perception of textile garments displayed in such areas, and may lead to consumer experience being significantly different from that intended by the designer.

The optimization of variables that influence the assessment and communication of color is vital to achieving effective communication between all parties involved. This can significantly reduce costs and lead times resulting in improved competitiveness and cost efficiency associated with increased consumer satisfaction and confidence in the industry.

The repetition of visual observations significantly affects the assessment of small color differences.

This paper aims to examine the third-place phenomenon, within a fashion context, through the theoretical lens of servicescape and experiential retailing. It identifies third places’ typologies, evolution and adoption and explores the opportunities third places offer to retailers when attempting to connect better with consumers.

Taking a qualitative approach, research was conducted using secondary data sources, observation of 98 retail stores and the shopping-with-consumers technique with 42 informants. Manual thematic analysis and magnitude coding was conducted.

Third-place fashion practices are prevalent and growing. Their predominant functions include sociability, experiential, restorative and commercial. Variances inherent in third places are expounded and a third-place-dimensions model is proposed.

Due to the chosen research approach, the results are limited in terms of generalizability to other settings. Several research directions are elucidated, including exploration of fashion third places on consumers’ place attachment within specific sectors; the impact of differing age, gender and geographies on third place meaning; virtual and hybrid forms; retailer motivations; and third-place alliances.

The preliminary study serves to support managers to understand how consumers perceive and experience the fashion third place and the potential of the third place to enhance consumer engagement.

The research makes a valuable contribution to the dearth of extant literature on third place within the fashion field. It offers a new theoretical perspective on form, function and benefits of third places as a conduit of social-, experiential-, and commercial-experience consumption.

The 2019 FIFA (Federation Internationale de Football Association) Women's World Cup in France saw unprecedented levels of success for women's football. FIFA estimates that, for the first time, total global viewership of the tournament reached 1bn. During the tournament, the eventual champions – the United States – saw their midfield veteran, Megan Rapinoe, win the golden boot (top goal scorer) and the golden ball award (most valuable player). In addition to her exploits on the pitch, Rapinoe, one of numerous ‘out’ lesbian athletes competing at the Women's World Cup, also received an unprecedented amount of media coverage. In this chapter, we analyse British print media coverage of Rapinoe during the one-month period of the Women's World Cup (7th June–7th July) and the week after the tournament concluded. Our findings indicate that although Rapinoe is a polarising character, media coverage of her throughout the tournament was generally positive. We show this through Rapinoe as a ‘personality’, Rapinoe as ‘outspoken’ and Rapinoe as a role model.