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Presents a novel method of measuring nine fabric properties considered to be important in tailorability and garment performance. Presents results of tests performed on a limited number of fabrics.

The balance between four different types of energies involved in a seam and their relative magnitudes which can result in seam instability is focused on. Experimental results for seams with and without overfeeding are presented, which agree with the theoretical analysis.

Different factors affecting seam instability are discussed and major energy terms involved and their order of magnitude are recognised. By comparing pre‐buckling and post‐buckling energies, four dimensionless groups were derived which are responsible for seam instability and can be used as independent variables in analysing the experimental results. The paper goes further and compares the analytical conclusions with the results of other investigators.

Studies the effect of thread tension and the stitch length, L, as well as the fabric thickness, t, and its compressive modulus, E, on the seam balance and total thread consumption.

Objective measurement of fabric mechanical properties has great potential for quality control of clothing materials. However, access to the requisite instruments still remains a problem for many potential users due to their high cost. A new methodology for measuring the basic low stress mechanical properties of woven fabric on a tensile tester is introduced. The results of experimental work on 39 samples are also presented. As a result, new parameters indicating the behavior of woven fabrics are introduced.

Gives an overview of the technique of current garment simulation and of the problems for more advanced simulation. To simulate the behaviour of a garment, three important models are usually used. They are: a garment model, a human body and an environment model. The models and the interaction among them are discussed using the conceptual‐mathematical‐posed problem structure of a model proposed by Barzel (1992).

The purpose of this paper is to provide an estimation of safe fabric length during automatic vertical feeding of fabrics into work stations.

The analysis is based on the application of the energy method and taking advantage of dimensionless groups.

Limits of the safe maximum force and length are obtained for a fabric of known properties and given friction coefficient between the fabric and supporting bed.

The paper demonstrates how to calculate the buckling force of a horizontally positioned fabric where the weight cannot be neglected and how to calculate the maximum length of such a fabric which can be pushed into a work station without buckling.

Aims to analyse the stress distribution in a circular flexible sheet. Part II verifies the theory with experimental work.

The investigation includes analysing the stress distribution in a circular flexible sheet clamped around its circumference under an externally applied force by a spherical object. Movement of the material normal to its original plane is then related to the external force and the elastic properties of the sheet, i.e. the elastic modulus and the Poisson's ratio. The effects of the size of the force‐applying object, relative to the sample radius, are also investigated.

The relationship between the applied force on the centre of a flexible sheet material by a spherical object and the sag of the sheet was derived. Poisson's ratio has an important role on the mechanism of deformation, restricting the extension of the sheet when it is high and intensifying the discontinuity of the strain at the interface.

The work could be expanded to industrial fabrics and to composite materials.

The two papers provide a first step in an attempt for a better understanding of the stresses involved in bagging of a linear elastic sheet. They provide the basis for the development of fabrics that can withstand bagging problems. This research may also put forward improved methods of measuring bagginess. Some of the theoretical work may be used to predict bagginess of fabrics based on properties.

The paper has two improvements on previous work: the inclusion of the effect of fabric Poisson ratio, and the suggestion of a better method of calculating the overall anisotropic properties.

This paper presents a new technique for collision detection between fabric and fabric or fabric and body, applied on our physical‐based fabric drape model. The technique can produce a realistic 3D virtual fashion show based on fabric mechanical properties and has the ability to handle the collision of clothing with an animated synthetic human. The collision technique appeared efficient and reliable when dealing with complex cases of fabric deformation. A full implementation of the drape model, collision detection with an animated human model is also described and discussed.

In the first three parts of this series of papers, methods were described by which the basic fabric mechanical properties important in clothing manufacturing operations may be measured and analysed. The fabric mechanical properties such as fabric tensile, shear, bending and longitudinal compression properties, have been related to fabric overfeeding during sewing and the natural curvature and curling couple of seamed fabric assemblies. The present paper describes work which was carried out with the aim of elucidating the relationships between the constitutive laws governing fabric extension, shear and bending, and the behaviour of the fabric in the three dimensionally deformed states in which the fabric is found during making‐up and end‐use. These deformed states involve strains in the plane of the fabric, and also bending out of the fabric plane. The fabric is approximated by a network of rod elements, aligned for convenience along the fabric constructional directions. The experimental results for a piece of woven fabric forced to conform to a spherical surface agree well with the theoretical calculations. The results also show that when a woven fabric is pulled onto a doubly curved surface by biaxial tensile stresses, equal in both directions, the fabric conforms to the surface mainly by shearing.