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This paper aims to describe the development of a method of constructing three‐dimensional (3D) human body shapes that include a degree of ease for purpose of computerized pattern making.

The body shape could be made with ease allowance to an individual's unique body shape using sweep method and a convex method. And then generates tight skirt patterns for the reconstructed virtual body shape using a computerized pattern making system.

This paper obtains individual patterns using individually reconstructed 3D body shapes by computerized pattern development. In these patterns, complex curved lines such as waist lines and dart lines are created automatically using the developed method. The method is successfully used to make variations of a tight skirt to fit different size women. The author also used the method to make other skirts of various designs.

The method described in this paper is useful for making patterns and then garments, without the need for the garments to be later adjusted for the subject.

In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape control lines were compared, which resulted in an agreement ratio of over 93 percent. This fact supports the adaptability and potential usefulness of the body model.Originality/value – This research makes it possible for customers to modify the body model to match their own body shape during internet or catalogue shopping; it can also enable apparel manufacturers to communicate with their customers by describing the body model to fit on the screen while in the ordering process.

This paper aims to describe the development of an interactive body model that can be altered to match individual body perimeter, postures and depth for the purpose of computerized pattern making.

Construction of the posture and depth adjustable body model requires the extraction of ten points, adjustment of coordinate points, linking of points by spline curves, control of section lengths and selectability of three hip types. Front to back depth of the model is adjusted by scaling ratio.

Good results were achieved in modelling back shapes, such as flat shape and stoop shape, and of modelling various hip shapes, such as flat shape and protruding shape. Also the presented body model is able to accurately simulate individual depth of bust, waist and hips. Silhouette comparison between the fully adjusted virtual body model and real body shapes shows an almost perfect match. A primary dialog for altering perimeter, length and depth, and a posture dialog for controlling back and hip shapes was developed.

By making fine adjustments to posture and depth, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties. This system could, therefore, be seen as a major step forward in pattern making.

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.