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Article
Publication date: 9 November 2021

Biqin Zhan, Xian Huang, Chenyuan Cai and Honglian Cong

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new…

177

Abstract

Purpose

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.

Findings

On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.

Originality/value

In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 7 July 2020

Jialu Liang, Honglian Cong, Zhe Gao, Aijun Zhang and Zhijia Dong

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the…

350

Abstract

Purpose

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric has the characteristics of complicated design principle and hard technical design. The purpose of this paper is to realize the computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, and provide a certain reference for the development of this type of fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

The weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is divided into weft-knitted two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft-knitted two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, firstly, the structural characteristic of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is analyzed. Then, the design principle of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is studied. Next, the technical model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is established. Finally, the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric is proposed to realize the rapid product development.

Findings

Based on the above method, through the development example of weft two-side similar pattern jacquard fabric and weft two-side independent pattern jacquard fabric, the computer-aided design of the weft two-side jacquard fabric is verified.

Research limitations/implications

Because of limited research studies, three-dimensional computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric loop structure will be studied in the further research, and the technical design speed needs to be improved to meet the needs of large patterns and positioning patterns.

Practical implications

The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will offer a certain reference for product development, technical principles, performance research and computer simulation for the in-depth study of the fabric.

Social implications

The computer-aided design of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric will simplify the fabric design process and improve the efficiency of new fabric development, and provide the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.

Originality/value

The author analyzes the structural characteristic of the fabric by the physical fabric, summarizes design principle of the fabric through production process, uses mathematical methods to establish a three-dimensional technical model of the fabric, and proposes the CAD flow chart of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric, which has good theoretical significance and practice of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 6 March 2017

Honglian Cong, Hui Lei, Yongchao Zhang, Aijun Zhang and Pibo Ma

The obtained simulation structures could reflect the appearances and the features of the fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to promote a lot for design and manufacturing of…

261

Abstract

Purpose

The obtained simulation structures could reflect the appearances and the features of the fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to promote a lot for design and manufacturing of weft-knitted lace fabrics (WKLF).

Design/methodology/approach

The advantages of WKLF compared with warp-knitted ones were displayed. The formation mechanism of the WKLF was analyzed with employing the mechanics principles. Spring-mass model was proposed in this paper to achieve the simulation of the fabrics. End mass points and intermediate mass points were involved in the model. The displacement of end mass points was considered the dominance and the foundation to settle the positions of all the mass points.

Findings

A novel jacquard lace style fabric with pattern-background effect knitted on circular knitting machine were put forward, which were different from the traditional lace fabrics manufactured on the warp knitting machines.

Originality/value

First, as the manufacturing equipment, circular knitting machine costs much less than warp knitting machine; second, the elastic performance along weft direction of WKLF is more excellent than that of warp-knitted ones. Third, the excellent extensibility gives nice comfort; furthermore, long floating threads do not exist on the WKLF surface, so that the snag will be avoided.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 27 July 2020

Xuan Luo, Gaoming Jiang and Honglian Cong

The purpose of this paper is to develop the relationship among the three-dimensional-shaped (3D) knitwear on the flat knitting machine in a three-dimensional (3D) design model and…

365

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop the relationship among the three-dimensional-shaped (3D) knitwear on the flat knitting machine in a three-dimensional (3D) design model and the corresponding knitting in a two-dimensional (2D) pattern.

Design/methodology/approach

To do this, map functions are defined to convert the expression of the 3D-shaped knitwear to the horizontal and the vertical knitting. When the inverse functions of the map functions exist, one type is knitting in the 2D pattern can be determined with the aid of the knitwear expression in the 3D design model, when another type of knitting is in the 2D pattern.

Findings

The simulations indicate that the proposed scheme can implement the conversion from the 3D-shaped knitwear in the 3D design model to the corresponding knitting in the 2D pattern. In addition, the generated knitting by the proposed method can meet the technological requirements, which means that the knitting in the 2D pattern, converted by the proposed scheme, can be implemented in reality and the differences between the real knitwear can also be obtained as same as the map functions.

Practical implications

The generated 2D pattern can facilitate accelerating the design development of the 3D-shaped knitwear. Meanwhile, after accomplishing the 3D design, the relationship between 2D patterns in the two knitting directions is established through map functions.

Originality/value

Map functions proposed in this paper can be used in the 3D design model of the 3D-shaped knitwear so as to obtain the relatively accurate 2D paper appropriate for machine-knitting direction, which omits the process of designer's single 2D pattern after accomplishing the 3D design and saves the developing time.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 21 July 2020

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang, Zhijia Dong, Fenglin Xia and Honglian Cong

The size prediction of garment is an important part in the process of the garment design and production, and it is also one of the most important features in warp-knitted…

716

Abstract

Purpose

The size prediction of garment is an important part in the process of the garment design and production, and it is also one of the most important features in warp-knitted computer-aided design system. The purpose of this paper is to realize the auto-generation of the garment templates using JavaScript and WebGL technologies, based on the prediction of the size of warp-knitted seamless sportswear.

Design/methodology/approach

The warp-knitted jacquard technology is used to produce the warp-knitted seamless sportswear, which is divided into suits and tights. In order to achieve the purpose of this study, the dimensions of four kinds of jacquard patterns knitted under different knitting conditions are measured and the crosswise and longitudinal size shrinkage percentages are also calculated. Then, the relationship between the yarn count and the drawing density as well as the size shrinkage percentage is studied and a size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard fabric is established. Next, according to the results of the size calculation, the point positions of the garment boundary in the mathematical coordinate system is determined. The color formula is built by the two-dimensional mathematical matrix. Finally, combined with the coordinate position and color information, the template can be drawn automatically.

Findings

Based on the size prediction model of warp-knitted garment, the template generation of warp-knitted full-form sportswear on WebGL-enabled web browser is realized, which is proven to be an effective computer-aided design method for warp-knitted garments.

Research limitations/implications

Because of limited researches, only two groups of yarns and four kinds of jacquard patterns were studied. A vaster database should be built and smooth curve, accurate coordinate needs to be optimized in the further research.

Practical implications

The size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard garment and garment template auto-generation of warp-knitted computer-aided design system will simplify the fabric technical design process, shorten design time and improve the efficiency of new product development.

Social implications

The size prediction model for warp-knitted jacquard garment and garment template auto-generation of warp-knitted computer-aided design system will provide the industries a guidance for new sample development and it also can shorten the development time and lower cost.

Originality/value

This author analyzes the relationship between the size characteristics and knitting technology of warp-knitted jacquard patterns, proposes a model of size prediction and realizes the auto-drawing of the garment template in the warp-knitted CAD system, which provides a reference for the new product design and development of warp-knitted seamless sportswear.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 11 June 2018

Zhijia Dong, Gaoming Jiang, Guoming Huang and Honglian Cong

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D…

413

Abstract

Purpose

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D virtual display framework for the online design of warp-knitted seamless garment using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the feature-based parametric 3D human body model, the 3D model of skin-tight warp-knitted seamless garment is established using the geometric modeling method. By applying plane parameterization technology, the 3D garment model is then projected into corresponding 2D prototype pattern and a texture-mapping relationship is obtained. Finally, an online 3D virtual display application framework for warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented on modern WebGL-enabled web browsers using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which allow garment designers to globally access without installing any additional software or plugin.

Findings

Based on the 2D/3D model of warp-knitted seamless garment, an online 3D virtual display application running on modern WebGL-enabled web browser is implemented using the latest Javascript, WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which is proven to be an effective way for building the web-based 3D garment CAD systems.

Originality/value

This paper provides a parametric design method for warp-knitted seamless garment 2D/3D model, and web-based online virtual display of 3D warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented for the first time, which establishes the foundation for the web-based online computer-aided warp-knitted seamless garment design system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 September 2022

Fei Sun, Haisang Liu, Yuqin Din, Honglian Cong and Zhijia Dong

The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be…

206

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be skin-tight and less exposed, reducing production processes and increasing productivity. Study its electrical conductivity in different yarn materials, knit processes and deformation ranges. The analysis is compared to provide some basis for the design of the electrodes.

Design/methodology/approach

The method includes five operations: (1) Analysis of the morphological appearance, tensile variation, fiber material properties and electrical conductivity of high-elastic and filament silver-plated conductive yarns. (2) Based on the knitting process of the floating yarn structure, three-dimensional modeling of the flexible sensor was carried out to explore the influence of knitting process changes on appearance characteristics. (3) The fabric samples are knitted by different silver-plated conductive yarns with different structures. Processing of experimental samples to finished size by advance shrinkage. (4) Measure the resistance of the experimental sample after the machine has been lowered and after pre-shrinking. Use the stretching machine to simulate a wearing experiment and measure the change in resistance of the sample in the 0–15% stretching range. (5) Analyze the influence factors on the conductive performance of the flexible sensor to determine whether it is suitable for textile flexible sensors.

Findings

For the float knitted flexible sensors, the floating wire projection is influenced by the elasticity of the fabric and the length of the floating wire. Compared to the plain knitted flexible sensors, it has less resistance variation and better electrical properties, making it suitable for making electrodes for textile structures. In addition, the knitting method is integrated with the intelligent monitoring clothing, which saves the process for the integration of the flexible sensor, realizes positioning and fixed-point knitting.

Practical implications

The sensor technology of the designed weft-knitted float structure is varied and can be freely combined and designed in a wide range. Within the good electrical conductivity, the flexible sensor can realize integrated knitting, positioning monitoring, integrating into the appearance of clothing. It can also focus on the wearing experience of wearable products so that the appearance of the monitoring clothing is close to the clothes we wear in our daily life.

Originality/value

In this paper, an integrated positioning knitting flexible sensor based on the weft knitting float structure is studied. The improved knitting process allows the sensing contact surface to be close to the skin and reduces the integration process. The relationship between the exposure of the silver-plated yarn on the clothing surface and the electrical conductivity is analyzed. Within a certain conductive performance, reduces the exposed area of the conductive yarn on the clothing surface and proposes a design reference for the flexible sensor appearance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 29 June 2018

Jiajia Peng, Gaoming Jiang, Honglian Cong, Xuan Luo and Yan Zhao

The whole garment technology offers a solution for the production efficiency by directly knitting a seamless tubular garment. Due to its complexity, high requirements and few…

700

Abstract

Purpose

The whole garment technology offers a solution for the production efficiency by directly knitting a seamless tubular garment. Due to its complexity, high requirements and few references, the technology has not been widely applied in mass production. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to show garment technology’s detailed design method, the technique calculation process and its merits compared than common technology.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper first analyzes the knitting principle of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine from its configuration. After that, the design method is putted forward as well as the technique calculation process. To reveal the advantages of the whole garment technology, this paper builds a comprehensive evaluation system by comparing the knitting time, labor cost and the yarn consumption.

Findings

With the evaluation system, the whole garment technology is proved to be more productive, cost-saving and less materials-consuming. Moreover, this advantage stands more out when the machine gage is higher.

Research limitations/implications

Due to limited research time and references, this paper only presents the whole garment technology for knitting common and traditional styles. More complicated and fashioned garments can be studied in the future research.

Practical implications

The design method and technology presented in this paper can be used as a reference for both the designers in the manufacture industry and the scholars for academic research works.

Originality/value

This paper has presented the whole garment technology and a specific method for technique calculation with consideration of garment structures. It also builds a evaluation system to show the advantages in terms of knitting efficiency, labor cost and yarn consumption.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 23 August 2018

Honglian Cong, Xinxin Li, Aijun Zhang, Yanting Zhang and Jun Zhong

Double-jacquard technique is referred as the most advanced technology for forming patterns on both layers of a 3D fabric knitted on a double-needle bar warp-knitting machine. In…

296

Abstract

Purpose

Double-jacquard technique is referred as the most advanced technology for forming patterns on both layers of a 3D fabric knitted on a double-needle bar warp-knitting machine. In order to realize the computer-aided design and simulation of jacquard patterns, the purpose of this paper is to propose a mathematic model for representation of jacquard structures and an improved mass-spring model to improve the simulation of structural deformation behavior.

Design/methodology/approach

Primarily, it analyzes the jacquard patterning method and displacing principle to design jacquard structures on each layer and linking structures of two layers. Based on that, a loop geometry defined by six key points and segmental lines is built to transfer the jacquard bitmap and lapping movements into a fabric of loops and therefore realizing patterns visualization. Afterwards, an improved mass-spring model is built to simulate structural deformation, in which the fabric is simplified as a mesh of uniformly distributed mass particles. Each loop is treated as a massless particle while underlaps are referred as structural springs connecting loops particles. Elastic forces of these springs on each loop particle is calculated according to the Hook’s law and Newton’s second law, and then based on the explicit Euler’s equations, motion state of each particle is solved including the velocity and the shift.

Findings

Based on the above method, a simulator for double-layer jacquard fabrics is developed via Visual C++ language to visualize the patterned fabrics with pitting effects. With a jacquard shoe fabric as an example, this simulation model is proved to be practical and efficient by comparing the simulation result and real fabric.

Research limitations/implications

Because of limited researches, 3D simulation modeling of this double-layer jacquard fabric will be studied in the further research.

Practical implications

The implement of this simulation method will offer the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.

Originality/value

This approach can be used as a reference for simulating other knitted fabrics with jacquard patterns, such as jacquard garment fabrics and home textile fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 4 September 2017

Xuan Luo, Gaoming Jiang and Honglian Cong

A method for predicting the material consumption of a sweater is presented before it is knitted. It can be achieved with the five basic models combined with the parameters related…

380

Abstract

Purpose

A method for predicting the material consumption of a sweater is presented before it is knitted. It can be achieved with the five basic models combined with the parameters related to the dimensions of the knitting machine and needles. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the parameters of the needle bar flat knitting machine, the sweater is modeled with five basic structures. The mathematical expression of each basic structure can be derived with corresponding parameters under some consumptions. In following, the predictive weight of the sweater can be formulated with the expression of the length of the basic structures and the linear density of the yarn.

Findings

To evaluate the performance of the proposed scheme, experiments of three types of sweaters on four different knitting machines are carried out. The results show that the proposed method can achieve the performance with the bias values by percentage ranging from −1.54 to −2.84 percent.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the present limited research, more experiments could not be carried out. To improve the performance and robustness of the proposed method, statistical performance measures such as the statistical mean and variance in massive experiments will be studied in the further research.

Practical implications

The evaluation of the material consumption can be obtained before it is knitted with the known basic parameters related to the machine and yarn.

Originality/value

This paper derives the general expressions of five basic structures based on the corresponding parameters of knitting machine. The predictive weight of the sweater is expressed according to the above basic structures before the sweater is knitted.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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