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Presents research into the improvement of flow‐line assembly systems. Aims to understand and improve the design and control of manually intensive flow‐line assembly in the clothing industry. A simulation model of the progressive bundle system has been constructed, incorporating operator performance variations and learning effects, machine failure and repair, operator absenteeism, quality failure and supervisory control. While the operator performance data and the stochastic variables are handled satisfactorily within the simulation, the problems of control are not handled well by conventional discrete event modelling techniques. Adopts a knowledge‐based approach to control in which an online computerized supervisor exercises control over the execution of the simulation run. Complex system models are not easy to validate and a four‐stage approach is used to demonstrate conformance with real‐world systems: qualification; face validity; modular validation; and time‐series system behaviour. Discusses applications of the model and the results of experiments with a line starting work on a new style.

Explains that the improvement of flowline assembly systems provides the context for this research: to understand and improve the design and control of manually‐intensive flowline assembly in the clothing industry. Constructs a simulation model of the progressive bundle system, incorporating operator performance variations and learning effects, machine failure and repair, operator absenteeism, quality failure and supervisory control. Notes that, while the operator performance data and the stochastic variables are handled satisfactorily within the simulation, the problems of control are not handled well by conventional discrete event modelling techniques. Adopts a knowledge‐based approach to control, in which an online computerized supervisor exercises control over the execution of the simulation run. As complex system models are not easy to validate, uses a four‐stage approach to demonstrate conformance with real‐world systems: qualification, face validity, modular validation and time‐series system behaviour. Discusses applications of the model and the results of experiments with a line starting work on a new style.

The paper discusses the design, implementation and validation of FLEAS, a flowline environment for automated supervision of clothing manufacturing systems. The paper argues for a mixed initiative approach to system control which incorporates both a scheduling component, based on local search, and a simulation component which dynamically tests the validity of the supervisory decisions made by the scheduler.

States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.

The purpose of this study is to examine the viewpoints and experiences of multiple budget actors to understand their particular budget related behaviours contingent upon the COVID-19 (C19) pandemic of a developing country.

This study uses Uganda as a case study and employs semi-structured interview method for the data collection. In trying to generate themes and patterns, data are analysed through three levels of coding: open, axial and selective coding. The contingency theory is used to interpret the data.

The task of budgeting formulation, implementation and control in times of C19 lead to varied actual behaviours of budget actors because of the environmental uncertainty, inappropriate structural and technological conditions and manipulative organisational cultures contingent upon the Ugandan C19 budget context.

The insights generated from the study can be useful for the national governments of emerging economies, e.g. African countries, to understand the conditions that influence the budget actors' behaviour and together, develop long-term financial resilience strategies to face future emergencies.

This study contributes to accounting and public budgeting theory by showing that contingency theory is a relevant framework for understanding budget actors' behaviour in emergency situations. The study potentially strengthens the contingency theory framework through its incorporation of organisational culture perspective into the “people” element.

States that bra design is a highly specialized process requiring a combination of design creativity, precision pattern making skills and a detailed knowledge of fabric performance. Although there is substantial published material cataloguing the historical origins of the garment, there is little information documenting the bra design and manufacture. Examines the design process, following a survey of professional designers. Describes a common framework along with the variations in individual working methods. Emphasizes the high dependence on heuristic knowledge and the reliance on physical prototyping in the design cycle.

The aim of this paper was to explore the use of objective fabric parameters in 3D virtual garment simulation.

Two methods (fabric assurance by simple testing and Browzwear's fabric testing kit) of obtaining objective fabric measurements and the derived parameters for virtual garment simulation were studied. Three parameters (extension, shear and bend) were investigated to establish whether the selected virtual software derived comparable parameters from the objective fabric measurements.

It was found that the conversion from the objective fabric measurement data to the required parameters for virtual simulation varied significantly. Manual analysis of the objective measurements showed the two test methods to be comparable for extension and shear parameters; However, some adjustment to the test method was required. The third parameter to be investigated (bending rigidity) concluded that the test methods and results obtained from the two different apparatus were not comparable and recommended further experimentation using a different testing technique.

Future research should be conducted on a larger variety of fabrics ensuring comparable loads are used in the testing of the extensibility parameters. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.

Objective measurement of extension, shear and bend properties was investigated in relation to the derived parameters for a selected virtual simulation package. An understanding of such parameters will aid the general industry in adapting 3D virtual garment simulation as part of the standard product development process, resulting in a significantly shorter product development cycle.

The purpose of this paper is to discuss how brassiere manufacturers develop new designs for bra products, suitable for individual consumers, through consumer codesign.

New product design that relies on conjoint analysis algorithms can depict multidimensional attribute profiles, such that consumers' choice behavior reflects their preferences and overall judgment of the profiles. This statistical technique provides a means to codesign and customize bra products and thereby enhance the overall bra design process.

Bra products codesign suggests goals such as attractive appearance, shoulder strap style, vivid/mild color, elegance/sexy lace, comfort/practicality, fabric, lining, comfort/attractive appearance, neckline design, comfort/excellent function cut, sewn cups, and generous quantities. The most preferred combination of attributes for all respondents is a cotton/cotton blend fabric, seamless bra that offers a detachable shoulder strap, lavender color, a two‐strap style, lace details, and a low‐cut plunge neckline. The paper illustrates consumers' bra awareness attributes, codesign approach, and individual optimum individualized bra designs.

The results provide a useful source of information for product managers, who should consider the use of codesign to design the best products for individual consumers and decrease the risk of design failure, as well as promote consumer loyalty and satisfaction toward the product.

The paper provides a unique method to understand the new product codesign structure and make bra product design decisions that integrate optimum individualized design.

This paper describes a method for fast three‐dimensional approximation of clothing from flat patterns. The pictures obtained are closely related to technical sketches used in the apparel industry. Our approach was implemented in a CAD program as currently used in the industry. Based on the parameterisation of flat polygonal curves and measurements, a geometrical approximation of the garment is achieved by reshaping the surfaces, using some curves as stating points. The methods herein described were applied to model certain elements inherent to the field of clothing design, such as collars, lapels and waistbands.

The purpose of this paper is to propose a relatively simple and rapid method to create a digital human model (DHM) to serve clothing industry.

Human body’s point cloud is divided into hands, foots, head and torso. Then forward modeling method is used to model hands and foots, photo modeling method is used to model head and reverse modeling method is used to model torso. After that, hands, foots, head and torso are integrated together to get a static avatar. Next, virtual skeleton is bound to the avatar. Finally, a lifelike digital human body model is created by the mixed modeling method (MMM).

In allusion to the defect of the three-dimension original data of human body, this paper presented an MMM, with which we can get a realistic digital human body model with accurate body dimensions. The DHM can well meet the needs of fashion industry.

The DHM, which is got by the MMM, can be well applied in the field of virtual try on, virtual fashion design, virtual fashion show and so on.

The originality of the paper lies in the integration of forward modeling, reverse modeling and photo modeling to present a novel method of human body modeling.