Reyhaneh Kamali, Yasaman Mesbah and Fatemeh Mousazadegan
The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.
Findings
The obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.
Originality/value
The consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.
Details
Keywords
Fatemeh Zahra Hourian Tabarestani, Fatemeh Mousazadegan and Nazanin Ezazshahabi
In the present work, the thermal insulation characteristics of multilayered mittens were studied in different airflow conditions.
Abstract
Purpose
In the present work, the thermal insulation characteristics of multilayered mittens were studied in different airflow conditions.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the thermal behavior of four groups of mittens consisting of one two-layer and three three-layer mittens containing nonwoven wadding materials with various weights and thicknesses was investigated during the exposure to airflows with different speeds. In order to evaluate the correlation between the heat transfer rates of different mittens with the human perception of cold, a set of pair-comparison tests was performed using Thurstone's law of comparative judgment.
Findings
The analysis of the results revealed that by an increment in the weight and the thickness of the wadding material, the thermal protection performance of mittens improves. Moreover, in the presence of airflow and by increasing its speed, due to the forced convective heat loss, the outer surface temperature of the mittens decreases and therefore the conductive heat transfer rate rises. This fact leads to the transfer of higher quantity of body warmth to the environment and thus feeling of coldness. According to the results, there was a proper correlation between the subjective perception of cold and the heat transfer rate of mittens. The statistical analysis of the results clarified that the effect of mitten's structural parameters and the airflow speed on the thermal protection behavior of mittens are significant at the confidence range of 95%.
Originality/value
Mitten is one of the important personal protective clothing, especially in cold environments. Thus, the thermal resistance of them has a prominent role in the protection of the hands and fingers from cold and frostbiting.
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Elnaz Safari Gorjan, Nazanin Ezazshahabi and Fatemeh Mousazadegan
Occurrence of fabric rupture is a problem that can influence fabric performance during wear. In this regard, fabric tearing resistance is considered by manufacturers and consumers…
Abstract
Purpose
Occurrence of fabric rupture is a problem that can influence fabric performance during wear. In this regard, fabric tearing resistance is considered by manufacturers and consumers and enhancing tear resistance through optimization of related parameters is beneficial.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the tearing resistance of a series of shirting fabrics with various weave patterns and weft densities were investigated by both static and dynamic tear test methods. Moreover, the constituent yarn's frictional and tensile behaviour was evaluated and their relation with tear resistance was analysis.
Findings
According to the outcomes, the fabric firmness and density and friction of yarns affect the tear resistance, reversely. However an improvement in yarn's tenacity can raise the tear resistance.
Originality/value
In this study it was aimed to not only consider influence of both static and dynamic tear test approach on the tearing performance of fabrics regarding their structural parameters, the impact of the constituent's yarn properties include tensile behaviour and friction coefficient on the tearing performance of fabric considered, as well.
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Fateme Sayanjali, Nazanin Ezazshahabi and Fatemeh Mousazadegan
The aim of the present study is to investigate the effect of fabric weave structure on air permeability and its relation with the garment ventilation.
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of the present study is to investigate the effect of fabric weave structure on air permeability and its relation with the garment ventilation.
Design/methodology/approach
For this purpose, five groups of cotton/polyester shirting fabrics with plain, T2/1, T2/2, T3/1 and T3/3 weave structures were studied. In order to evaluate ventilation, the garment samples were prepared in different sizes, so that the thickness of the air gap formed between the garment and the body simulator varies by zero, 1.5, 1.2 and 2.9 cm. The effect of wind and its speed (1, 2 and 3 m/s) on clothing ventilation has also been evaluated.
Findings
The results indicated that the rise of wind speed and air gap thickness, due to the increased convective heat transfer, would diminish the air gap temperature of clothing and improves its ventilation. In addition, the fabric weave pattern influences the air ability to pass through the fabric, thus affecting the ventilation capability of the garment.
Originality/value
Garments made of fabrics with higher structural firmness, such as the plain, not only have lower air permeability, but also has weaker ventilation capability.
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Keywords
Fatemeh Mousazadegan, Siamak Saharkhiz and Masoud Latifi
The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.
Design/methodology/approach
A linear three dimensional finite‐element analysis in ABAQUS 6.8 is used to model pucker formation under sewing thread tension. Fabric is modeled as a continuous shell under a constant stitch length and sewing thread tensions is the applied force. Simulation's results are compared with the experimental pucker profiles, which are derived by a triangulate laser, in the term of a surface roughness index.
Findings
A consistent correlation between simulation and experimental results is observed which reveals the ability of the model to predict the seam pucker formation of fabrics.
Originality/value
This study modeled tension seam pucker based on fabric's mechanical properties and exerted forces by finite‐element method. According to this study, it is possible to predict fabric deformation after tension pucker occurrence.