Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen, Linne Marie Lauesen and Arno Kourula
The purpose of this paper is to examine to what extent the conventional stakeholder model mirrors managerial perceptions of the stakeholder environment in the Swedish fashion…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to examine to what extent the conventional stakeholder model mirrors managerial perceptions of the stakeholder environment in the Swedish fashion industry. The authors aim to adopt a novel approach to stakeholder measurement, as the traditional stakeholder model is constrained by its static two-dimensional nature, which captures neither the nuances of the stakeholder literature nor the dynamics of the firm’s stakeholder universe.
Design/methodology/approach
Empirically, the paper is based on findings from a survey among 492 Swedish fashion manufacturers and retailers.
Findings
The paper reports significant discrepancy between the conventional stakeholder model and the perceptions of real-life managers of the stakeholder environment. On the surface, their understanding is more in line with the managerial model of the firm from which the stakeholder literature originally departs. It is argued, however, that the discrepancy may be rooted in technology rather than theory as the stakeholder model is constrained by its static two-dimensional nature, which captures neither the nuances of the stakeholder literature nor the dynamics of the firm’s stakeholder universe. The paper, therefore, introduces an animated alternative to the conventional stakeholder model that provides a richer graphical representation of a firm’s stakeholder universe.
Research limitations/implications
The paper refers to the open-ended questions in the survey in terms of descriptive statistics, and not the entire quantitative measures in the survey. This is because these questions are crucial to the authors’ approach to the suggested new stakeholder model, which is not tested quantitatively, but should be perceived as explorative – as a qualitative outcome of the survey. The survey is conducted through the web in the Swedish fashion industry only; thus; the authors’ suggested model needs further quantitative qualification, which the authors plead for in future research.
Originality/value
The originality of the paper is its novel approach to stakeholder measurement based on the perceptions of real-life managers of the stakeholder environment of the Swedish fashion industry. The traditional stakeholder model is constrained by its static two-dimensional nature, which the paper’s animated three-dimensional alternative provides a richer graphical representation of a firm’s stakeholder universe.
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Tereza Blazkova, Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen and Kirsti Reitan Reitan Andersen
This study aims to deepen the understanding of what stakeholders talk about when it comes to sustainable fashion on social media and how. Sustainable fashion is a broad umbrella…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to deepen the understanding of what stakeholders talk about when it comes to sustainable fashion on social media and how. Sustainable fashion is a broad umbrella term, which can distract attention from the differences between the individual subtopics and the sentiments ascribed to them. However, little systematic research exists on how the stakeholder activity and dominant sentiments vary across different sustainable fashion topics.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on a social media analysis of 19,179 tweets authored by 1,819 distinct stakeholders on Twitter (now “X”) from 2007 to 2022. A large language model, a type of artificial intelligence (AI) that focuses on understanding and generating human language, is used to conduct a sentiment analysis of six stakeholder groups and 81 keywords linked to sustainable fashion. Two case examples are used to highlight the differences in stakeholder perceptions of sustainable fashion.
Findings
The social media analysis demonstrates how subcategories of sustainable fashion significantly differ in terms of stakeholder interest, activity and sentiments. For instance, tweets on circular economy and relevant subcategories (closed loop, recycling, upcycling, etc.) are popular, whereas issues linked to environmental, social and governance (ESG) and due diligence receive little attention on social media. While sentiments toward sustainable fashion are in general positive, discussions on topics such as labor rights issues are consistently associated with negative sentiments across most stakeholder groups.
Originality/value
This study contributes to the literature by demonstrating how stakeholders and sentiments vary across different topics linked to sustainable fashion on social media, which has become one of the main channels for communicating sustainability content. The findings thereby shed new light on dominant stakeholder positions regarding a wide variety of sustainable fashion topics.
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Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen, Rebecca Earley and Kirsti Reitan Andersen
The purpose of this paper is to discuss how organisational complexities influence the design of circular business models, which have recently been introduced as a new panacea for…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to discuss how organisational complexities influence the design of circular business models, which have recently been introduced as a new panacea for aligning the interests of business with the needs of the environment.
Design/methodology/approach
The Service Shirt, a new garment concept, is used as an illustrative case example for demonstrating some of the organisational complexities of making circular business models operable. The shirt was developed through a series of design workshops for the fashion brand Fashion Alpha.
Findings
The analysis highlights multiple challenges emerging when a fashion product with a significantly extended lifecycle passes through different users, organisations and business models. It is concluded that it is difficult to talk about a circular business model (singular) as circular economy solutions depend on the contributions of multiple stakeholders with business models.
Practical implications
The findings illustrate how fashion companies interested in the circular economy fundamentally have to rethink conventional approaches to value, organisational boundaries and temporality.
Originality/value
Drawing on a case example from the fashion industry, the paper demonstrates the organisational complexities linked to the design of new business models based on circular economy thinking, as these require the coordination of actions between autonomous actors driven by different logics regarding value creation, value delivery and value capture.
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Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen, Kirsti Reitan Andersen and Ana Lucia Diaz Schiavon
This study aims to show how a massive open online course (MOOC) can be used as an educational tool to diffuse specialised corporate sustainability research globally to a broad…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to show how a massive open online course (MOOC) can be used as an educational tool to diffuse specialised corporate sustainability research globally to a broad range of learners.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on insights from the design and implementation of a sustainable fashion MOOC. The MOOC was launched in late 2019 on a global learning platform and has recently passed 40,000 enrolments (February 2022). The presentation of the MOOC draws on quantitative and qualitative data available to instructors on the global learning platform.
Findings
Based on the data about the learners and their use of the MOOC, this study demonstrates how MOOC can be a powerful tool to diffuse sustainability research to new groups of learners, who differ significantly from the typical students at business schools and universities in the West. Moreover, the findings also demonstrate how the COVID-19 pandemic had a significant impact on the MOOC’s popularity.
Originality/value
This study provides new empirical evidence on how sustainability research can be translated into online education material of relevance for a broad range of learners from around the world. Moreover, the study also points to the number of practical and structural challenges linked to the future mainstreaming of MOOCs and other types of online education material.
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Kerli Kant Hvass and Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen
The purpose of this paper is to examine the challenges and solutions emerging when fashion brands develop and test circular economy solutions within their existing business models.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to examine the challenges and solutions emerging when fashion brands develop and test circular economy solutions within their existing business models.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper is based on a 34-month case study in a global fashion brand, which launched a new in-store product take-back initiative.
Findings
The results indicate that fashion brands need to cope with multiple challenges in the process of developing circular business models in the organization, including: diverging perspectives of value and unclear success criteria, poor alignment with existing strategy, limited internal skills and competences, and limited consumer interest.
Research limitations/implications
The results of this paper are grounded in a single case study and thus limitations associated with broad generalizations apply. In addition, the paper only investigated one aspect of circularity, namely, product take-back and did not investigate design for circularity, product reuse, recycle and other circularity related issues.
Originality/value
The findings derive from practical experiences of a fashion brand implementing an in-store product take-back system in the existing business model. The study reveals new insights into the actual process of making circular fashion operable.
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Peter Neergaard and Esben Rahbek Pedersen
In the light of globalisation and the international division of labour, the article will stress the importance of a new conception of quality management, focusing more on the…
Abstract
In the light of globalisation and the international division of labour, the article will stress the importance of a new conception of quality management, focusing more on the social and environmental apsects of quality in global supply chains with a particular emphasis on suppliers’ perspectives. The increasing focus on corporate social responsibility, business ethics, corporate citizenship, sustainable development etc. indicates that managers have failed to see social and environmental aspects of the production as an integrated part of quality.
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The purpose of this paper is to outline the anatomy of small‐ and medium‐sized enterprises (SMEs) that try to manage corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the supply chain.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to outline the anatomy of small‐ and medium‐sized enterprises (SMEs) that try to manage corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the supply chain.
Design/methodology/approach
The data used for analysis stem from a large‐scale survey of 1,071 Danish SMEs carried out in 2005.
Findings
It is concluded that CSR activities directed towards the supply chains still remain the privilege of a small group of SMEs with quite advanced CSR systems.
Research limitations/implications
The survey was not specifically designed for this article. Moreover, only Danish SMEs participated in the survey. Whether the evidence from Denmark can be generalised to cover SMEs in other countries is left to determine.
Practical implications
The results indicate that there may be a need for more differentiated initiatives to promote CSR that will enable smaller enterprises to address CSR issues in the supply chain. Thus far, CSR has often been associated with large, high‐profile multinationals that have been trying to protect their image and brands from negative press, NGO activism, consumer boycotts and governmental sanctions. Little has been done to examine how SMEs can improve social and environmental conditions in cooperation with suppliers.
Originality/value
This article contributes to the existing body of literature by examining how a number of key SME characteristics affect the management of CSR.
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Esben Rahbek Pedersen and Peter Neergaard
The purpose of this paper is to analyse how managers in a multinational corporation (MNC) experience corporate social responsibility (CSR); the concept, the reasons for dealing…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to analyse how managers in a multinational corporation (MNC) experience corporate social responsibility (CSR); the concept, the reasons for dealing with it, and its integration in everyday practices. Moreover, the paper aims to discuss how the alignment and misalignment of managerial perceptions are likely to affect corporate social performance.
Design/methodology/approach
The analysis is based on a case study that includes interviews with ten managers and survey data from 149 manager respondents.
Findings
The paper concludes that managerial perceptions of CSR are characterised by a great deal of heterogeneity. It shows that, even in an organisation with a long CSR tradition and formalised CSR policies, standards and procedures, managers hold different, and not necessarily convergent, views of CSR.
Originality/value
The results indicate that simple categorisations of firms' CSR activities fail to encompass the multitude of perceptions and viewpoints that actually exist in modern organisations. Moreover, the paper questions whether managerial alignment on CSR issues is a precondition for high corporate social performance.
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Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen and Mahad Huniche
The purpose of this paper is to analyse how negotiations between the constituencies affect the processes and outcomes of lean projects in Danish public sector organisations.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to analyse how negotiations between the constituencies affect the processes and outcomes of lean projects in Danish public sector organisations.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper is based on a qualitative analysis of interviews with managers and employees who have participated in lean projects in the Danish public sector. Negotiated order theory serves as the overarching theoretical framework for the analysis.
Findings
The paper concludes that the processes and outcomes of lean depend not only on the technology itself, but also the negotiation context in which the planning and implementation of lean projects take place. Lean implementation is not a neutral and value‐free activity; it is fluid and open for multiple interpretations, interests, and logics.
Research limitations/implications
The project is based on qualitative data from lean projects in the Danish public sector. It cannot be concluded that the findings can be generalised to reflect all types of lean projects across organisational and geographical settings.
Originality/value
The paper adds value to the relatively scarce literature on lean management in the public sector by exploring how negotiative processes influence the planning, implementation, and maintenance/development of lean projects.
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Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen and Mahad Huniche
The purpose of this paper is to examine the determinants of lean implementation in Danish public sector organisations. It is proposed to structure the paper around a theoretical…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to examine the determinants of lean implementation in Danish public sector organisations. It is proposed to structure the paper around a theoretical model based on a negotiated order perspective.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper is based on interviews with 29 managers and employees from Danish public sector organisations who have been involved in the planning and implementation of lean projects over the past few years.
Findings
The paper identifies a number of factors within the structural context and the negotiation context which are deemed important for the fate of lean projects in the public sector.
Originality/value
The qualitative study brings new insights into the debate on the barriers and success factors in the lean transformation process in the public sector.