Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects…
Abstract
Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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Examines the eleventh published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…
Abstract
Examines the eleventh published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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Chollakup R., Schacher L., Sinoimeri A. and Adolphe D.C.
Using the framework of a general study on the ‘spinnability’ of silk/cotton blends, studies have been carried out to characterize the mechanical properties and tactile feeling of…
Abstract
Using the framework of a general study on the ‘spinnability’ of silk/cotton blends, studies have been carried out to characterize the mechanical properties and tactile feeling of these blended textiles for different blend proportions, processing, and yarn count. The variable spinning parameters include the type of silk fibre, the blending technique (intimate and drawframe blending) and the silk content in the blend (25 and 50&), as well as the pure cotton used as the reference. Yarns and knitted fabrics have been produced and tested using classical processing methods and test instruments. However, the instrumental test measurements do not seem to be relevant for characterizing the influence of the variable processing parameters on the hand improvement of the final knitted fabric. Therefore, sensory analysis methodologies have been used to objectively describe the tactile feeling of these products compared to the cotton one. In this paper, the results of both analyses show that the changes in the physical properties of the blended yarns and the tactile feeling of the knitted fabrics are affected more by the blending technique than by the silk content.
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Selsabil El‐Ghezal Jeguirim, Mahdi Sahnoun, Amal Babay Dhouib, Morched Cheickrouhou, Laurence Schacher and Dominique Adolphe
The purpose of this paper is to model the relationship between manufacturing parameters, especially finishing treatments and instrumental tactile properties measured by Kawabata…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to model the relationship between manufacturing parameters, especially finishing treatments and instrumental tactile properties measured by Kawabata evaluation system.
Design/methodology/approach
Two soft computing approaches, namely artificial neural network (ANN) and fuzzy inference system (FIS), have been applied to predict the compression and surface properties of knitted fabrics from finishing process. The prediction accuracy of these models was evaluated using both the root mean square error and mean relative percent error.
Findings
The results revealed the model's ability to predict instrumental tactile parameters based on the finishing treatments. The comparison of the prediction performances of both techniques showed that fuzzy models are slightly more powerful than neural models.
Originality/value
This study provides contribution in industrial products engineering, with minimal number of experiments and short cycles of product design. In fact, models based on intelligent techniques, namely FIS and ANNs, were developed for predicting instrumental tactile characteristics in reference to finishing treatments.
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E. Strazdienė, S. Ben Saïd, M. Gutauskas, L. Schacher and D.C. Adolphe
The aim of presented investigation was to test developed testing device Griff tester, created for the objective evaluation of textile hand and to compare the obtained data with…
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of presented investigation was to test developed testing device Griff tester, created for the objective evaluation of textile hand and to compare the obtained data with sensory evaluation results of textiles, subjected to different final treatments.
Design/methodology/approach
The effect of two finishing products, i.e. the crease‐resistant finishing Knittex® “K” and the softener macro silicone Ultratex® “Ul” upon 100 per cent cotton plain weave fabric was studied by two methods – objective evaluation and sensory analysis. Objective evaluation was done using Griff tester device where disc shaped specimen was extracted through a rounded hole of the stand. Sensory analysis was performed by the panel of 11 trained persons.
Findings
Investigations have shown that both treatments changed the hand of the fabric in the expected direction. Meantime, two experimental methods (objective and sensory approach) have shown their effectiveness to evaluate the textile touch, respectively.
Practical implications
The obtained results proved that criterion Q can be used for sensitive and vivid detection of differences between fabrics, affected by different final treatment operations. The effects of finishing products' concentrations were found to be in accordance with the manufacturer's technical specifications and with the finishing industrialist's expectations.
Originality/value
Investigation results obtained by Griff tester revealed the possibility of fabric hand evaluation on the basis of one relative criterion Q. These results can be linked with some attribute issued of the sensory analysis applied to the characterisation of the tactile feeling.
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L. Schacher, D.C. Adolphe and J.‐Y. Drean
A lot of fibre and fabric structures or finishing parameters influence the functional properties of fabrics. In order to assess the thermal properties of conventional polyester…
Abstract
A lot of fibre and fabric structures or finishing parameters influence the functional properties of fabrics. In order to assess the thermal properties of conventional polyester and microfibre types of fabrics the plate/fabric/plate method for conductivity or cool/warm feeling was used. Fabrics made of microfibres show lower heat conductance and therefore higher thermal insulation properties. Microfibre fibres exhibit a warmer feeling than conventional polyester fabrics depending on pressure, which may be due to the difference in the fibre and fabric surface in contact with the human skin.
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Emilie Drean, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Adolphe and François Bauer
For size reasons, adapted sensors, able to measure intrinsic mechanical properties of fabrics, have not been developed yet. The study aims at developing a sensor that can be…
Abstract
Purpose
For size reasons, adapted sensors, able to measure intrinsic mechanical properties of fabrics, have not been developed yet. The study aims at developing a sensor that can be inserted within a specific textile, a “complex” fabric used as seat‐cover fabrics, and consisting of an assembly of three layers.
Design/methodology/approach
Piezoelectric polymer sensors containing polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) were chosen. A total of 20 “complex” were studied. A characterisation in compression was achieved, using the Kawabata Evaluation System. The best‐adapted measurement method using a PVDF sensor has been required. The method consists in analyzing the response under compressive stress of a PVDF disc using the resonant frequency of the material. A constraint series is applied to the fabric in the sensor area; the maximal phase at the sensor's resonant frequency is taken up for each one.
Findings
Phase variation is linear and differs according to the studied “complex”. A correlation study between Kawabata compression parameters and slopes did not show any relationship between slope values and compression properties when the surface fabrics of “complex” are compared, but a classification in “families” is possible when different foams are considered.
Research limitations/implications
Further studies should demonstrate whether these “smart” textiles could find applications in the automotive field, to measure accurately the mass of a passenger. The influence of the external parameters (vibrations, temperature variations) has to be checked, knowing that the sensor is not depending on moisture. To complete the study, the sensor has to be tested in a real situation, i.e. inserted in a car‐seat, in contact with a human body.
Originality/value
This study promises development of a sensor that can be inserted into a specific textile, a “complex” fabric used as a seat‐cover, consisting of an assembly of three layers.
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Youngjoo Na and Jisu Kim
Empire style fashion, Greek-Roman style robe with bare shoulder and chest and short sleeved with long gloves which created a slim silhouette, was worn even in winter season in…
Abstract
Purpose
Empire style fashion, Greek-Roman style robe with bare shoulder and chest and short sleeved with long gloves which created a slim silhouette, was worn even in winter season in Europe, where average temperature is 0-5°C. Most women suffered with catching cold and thousands caught flu and tuberculosis of the lungs, called muslin disease. The purpose of this paper is to find out clothing insulation of the robe by measuring the thermal resistance and to guess how cold they felt in this robe in winter time.
Design/methodology/approach
The authors performed the investigation on original robe shape with based on historical evidence and data, such as drawings, sketches, pattern books and sewing books, and reproduced a representative robe costume and tested its thermal insulation. The fabrics of robe were thin wool, silk and cotton following the literature evidence and preserved costume. Thermal insulation of the robes was measured using thermal manikin with the test method ISO 15831. The authors analyzed the thermal insulation of reconstructed robes with an inner cotton breech as for daily use and tested them wrapped with cashmere shawl on manikin shoulder as for severe cold weather.
Findings
The dress robes had the range of 0.61-0.67 clo regardless of the type of fabric materials, and 0.80-0.81 clo with the cashmere shawl. These values were not enough for women to keep body temperature or comfort in winter time.
Originality/value
This study combined fashion historic theory for costume reproduction with clothing science and technology for thermal insulation. Combination of costume history, construction technology and measurement engineering is the ingenious idea, and the combination of historical and scientific research evidences interdisciplinary originality.
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Xinzhou Wu and Victor Kuzmichev
The purpose of this paper is to present a method of digital twins of female bodies and the optimization of wetsuit patterns with the help of virtual technologies.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to present a method of digital twins of female bodies and the optimization of wetsuit patterns with the help of virtual technologies.
Design/methodology/approach
First, the new anthropometrical grouping of female torsos has been developed with 3D body scanning technology. Second, soft tissue deformation under the influence of typical diving postures and hydraulic pressure has been explored. Through real experiments, the relationship between textile material strain and body measurement changing has been applied to establish deformed digital twins of female bodies. Finally, during the evaluation of the virtual wetsuit test on digital twins through material strain and pressure values in CLO 3D, the optimized pattern of the wetsuit has been designed.
Findings
The experimental results show that the digital twins based on real data transformation are feasible and practical, and the process of establishing digital twins with 3D body scanning technology is valid and accurate.
Originality/value
The researches on the wetsuit of structure and body dynamic measurements still have many gaps existing in the real and virtual experiments. Thus the manuscript addresses these issues and provides the deformed digital twin for wetsuit pattern design for the first time. This study can be used for designing and optimizing the wetsuit and further improving the efficiency of manufacture and evaluation.
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Fatima Iftikhar, Suleman Anis, Umar Bin Asad, Shagufta Riaz, Muntaha Rafiq and Salman Naeem
Carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS) is a hand disease caused by the pressing of the median nerve present in the palmar side of the wrist. It causes severe pain in the wrist, triggering…
Abstract
Purpose
Carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS) is a hand disease caused by the pressing of the median nerve present in the palmar side of the wrist. It causes severe pain in the wrist, triggering disturbance during sleep. Different products like splints, braces and gloves are available in the market to alleviate this disease but there was still a need to improve the wearability, comfort and cost of the product. This study was about designing a comfortable and cost-effective wearable system for mild-to-moderate CTS. Transcutaneous electrical nerve stimulation (TENS) therapy has been used to reduce the pain in the wrist.
Design/methodology/approach
After simulation by using Proteus software (which allowed the researchers to draw and simulate electrical circuits using ISIS, ARES and PCB design tools virtually), the circuit with optimum frequency, i.e. 33 Hz was selected, and the circuit was developed on a printed circuit board (PCB). The developed circuit was integrated successfully into the half glove structure.
Findings
The developed product had good thermophysiological comfort and hand properties as compared to the commercially available product of the same kind. In vivo testing (It involves the testing with living subjects like animals, plants or human beings) was performed which resulted in 85% confirmed viability of the product against CTS. A glove with an integrated circuit was developed successfully to accommodate various sizes without any sex specifications in a cost-effective way to mitigate the issue of CTS.
Research limitations/implications
Industrial workers, individuals frequently using their hands or those diagnosed with CTS may wish to use this product as therapy. The attention could not be paid to the aesthetic or visual appeal of the developed product.
Originality/value
A very comfortable glove with integrated TENS electrodes was developed successfully to accommodate various sizes without any sex specifications in a cost-effective way to mitigate the issues of CTS.