Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects…
Abstract
Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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Examines the eleventh published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…
Abstract
Examines the eleventh published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.
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E. Strazdienė, S. Ben Saïd, M. Gutauskas, L. Schacher and D.C. Adolphe
The aim of presented investigation was to test developed testing device Griff tester, created for the objective evaluation of textile hand and to compare the obtained data with…
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of presented investigation was to test developed testing device Griff tester, created for the objective evaluation of textile hand and to compare the obtained data with sensory evaluation results of textiles, subjected to different final treatments.
Design/methodology/approach
The effect of two finishing products, i.e. the crease‐resistant finishing Knittex® “K” and the softener macro silicone Ultratex® “Ul” upon 100 per cent cotton plain weave fabric was studied by two methods – objective evaluation and sensory analysis. Objective evaluation was done using Griff tester device where disc shaped specimen was extracted through a rounded hole of the stand. Sensory analysis was performed by the panel of 11 trained persons.
Findings
Investigations have shown that both treatments changed the hand of the fabric in the expected direction. Meantime, two experimental methods (objective and sensory approach) have shown their effectiveness to evaluate the textile touch, respectively.
Practical implications
The obtained results proved that criterion Q can be used for sensitive and vivid detection of differences between fabrics, affected by different final treatment operations. The effects of finishing products' concentrations were found to be in accordance with the manufacturer's technical specifications and with the finishing industrialist's expectations.
Originality/value
Investigation results obtained by Griff tester revealed the possibility of fabric hand evaluation on the basis of one relative criterion Q. These results can be linked with some attribute issued of the sensory analysis applied to the characterisation of the tactile feeling.
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M.J. Abreu, M.E. Silva, L. Schacher and D. Adolphe
In the area of technical textiles, the products depend mainly on advanced materials and these, on the other hand, depend on textile know‐how. Textile materials in the health‐care…
Abstract
In the area of technical textiles, the products depend mainly on advanced materials and these, on the other hand, depend on textile know‐how. Textile materials in the health‐care sector gradually have taken on more important roles. As more research has been completed, textiles have found their way into a variety of medical applications. Examines the medical and related health‐care sector, and more precisely the products used in the operating theatre and hospital ward for the hygiene, care and safety of staff and patients. These textiles are not very well‐known, but have great potential for development in the fields of application. Owing to recent advancements in medical procedures and textile engineering, the use of textile materials in the health‐care industry is growing. Subsequently, aims to contribute to the knowledge and clarification of single use materials used in the operating theatre according to the new technical standards.
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Chollakup R., Schacher L., Sinoimeri A. and Adolphe D.C.
Using the framework of a general study on the ‘spinnability’ of silk/cotton blends, studies have been carried out to characterize the mechanical properties and tactile feeling of…
Abstract
Using the framework of a general study on the ‘spinnability’ of silk/cotton blends, studies have been carried out to characterize the mechanical properties and tactile feeling of these blended textiles for different blend proportions, processing, and yarn count. The variable spinning parameters include the type of silk fibre, the blending technique (intimate and drawframe blending) and the silk content in the blend (25 and 50&), as well as the pure cotton used as the reference. Yarns and knitted fabrics have been produced and tested using classical processing methods and test instruments. However, the instrumental test measurements do not seem to be relevant for characterizing the influence of the variable processing parameters on the hand improvement of the final knitted fabric. Therefore, sensory analysis methodologies have been used to objectively describe the tactile feeling of these products compared to the cotton one. In this paper, the results of both analyses show that the changes in the physical properties of the blended yarns and the tactile feeling of the knitted fabrics are affected more by the blending technique than by the silk content.
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Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Charles Adolphe and Faouzi Sakli
The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.
Design/methodology/approach
To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches.
Findings
According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate.
Practical implications
This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches.
Originality/value
This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.
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M.J. Abreu, M.E. Silva, L. Schacher and D. Adolphe
Hospitals will continue to be the largest consumers of disposables, because of the diverse range of procedures they provide. Favourable growth is forecast for non‐wovens…
Abstract
Hospitals will continue to be the largest consumers of disposables, because of the diverse range of procedures they provide. Favourable growth is forecast for non‐wovens. Increasing concern over contamination and nosocomial infections will boost the demand for consumable and disposable surgical gowns and drapes. But, until now neither the manufacturers nor the end users of surgical gowns and drapes could agree on standards. So, a mandatory European standard is being developed to establish basic requirements and test methods for disposable and reusable materials used for surgical gowns and drapes. Once this standard has been adopted, the continued use of cotton textiles and conventional cotton‐polyester mixed textiles will become questionable.
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R. Chollakup, A. Sinoimeri, F. Philippe, L. Schacher and D. Adolphe
Currently, textile industrialists have to consider the sensory aspect in their design and manufacturing specifications. To describe the sensory quality of products, sensory…
Abstract
Currently, textile industrialists have to consider the sensory aspect in their design and manufacturing specifications. To describe the sensory quality of products, sensory evaluation does exist and is widely used in the food and cosmetics areas. These methodologies have been successfully transposed to tactile evaluation of textile fabrics for different textile materials: plain weave fabrics with different post‐treatments and non‐woven are used for medical gowns and drapes. In our study, we have asked our trained panel composed of nine assessors to score a list of already defined sensory attributes for different knitted fabrics made of silk/cotton blends. The spinning parameters which have been changed are the type of silk fibre (three types), blending techniques – intimate and draw frame blending – and the silk content. All these parameters can more or less influence the tactile perception of the final knitted fabric. In this paper, the results of our analysis are presented and discussed in order to answer questions such as: “Are these two fabrics different?”, “What kind of difference is there?” or “What are the sensory characteristics of these fabrics?”. The concrete steps of the evaluation will be presented and specifically the training and performance analysis of the panellists who were obliged to adapt their evaluation procedures to small knitted samples. The protocols used to carry out fabrics description and comparisons when all assessors cannot evaluate all the products under study will also be detailed.
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L. Schacher, D.C. Adolphe and J.‐Y. Drean
A lot of fibre and fabric structures or finishing parameters influence the functional properties of fabrics. In order to assess the thermal properties of conventional polyester…
Abstract
A lot of fibre and fabric structures or finishing parameters influence the functional properties of fabrics. In order to assess the thermal properties of conventional polyester and microfibre types of fabrics the plate/fabric/plate method for conductivity or cool/warm feeling was used. Fabrics made of microfibres show lower heat conductance and therefore higher thermal insulation properties. Microfibre fibres exhibit a warmer feeling than conventional polyester fabrics depending on pressure, which may be due to the difference in the fibre and fabric surface in contact with the human skin.