Phebe Kavati, Chandrasekaran Bangaru and Asit Baran Mandal
Quality is an important aspect of the apparel manufacturing process. Although the basic quality of apparels mainly depends on the fabric properties, the type of thread used and…
Abstract
Quality is an important aspect of the apparel manufacturing process. Although the basic quality of apparels mainly depends on the fabric properties, the type of thread used and selection of seams play an important role in determining the final quality of the apparel. Seam strength testing is basically an examination of the amount of pressure required to tear the seam of a garment. It is an essential parameter that determines the performance of a garment. For the perfect fit and look of a garment, seam strength has to be proper. It is therefore worthwhile to select the correct sewing thread size for good seam quality. The present work reports on an experimental investigation about the effect of different threads on the characteristics of leather. The other parameters, which are investigated, include seam strength, puckering and slippage.
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Kaliappa Krishnaraj, Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Kavati Phebeaardn and Bangaru Chandrasekaran
Drape is a property that affects the aesthetic appeal and functionality of materials used for clothing manufacture. When various cut components of apparel are assembled together…
Abstract
Purpose
Drape is a property that affects the aesthetic appeal and functionality of materials used for clothing manufacture. When various cut components of apparel are assembled together, the drape behavior of the final garment could be affected compared to the base fabric. Goat suede leathers are widely used for making apparels. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of sewing on the drape characteristics of goat suede leather.
Design/methodology/approach
For this study commercially available goat suede leathers of Indian origin from five different firms were used. The bending length, drape coefficient and number of nodes were measured for goat suede leathers with different stitch and seam values and compared with the same measurements taken in plain leather. For bending length measurement, plain, single stitched and seamed samples were prepared. For drape coefficient measurement, plain, radially stitched and seamed namely half circle and quarter circle samples were prepared.
Findings
The introduction of seam (0.5 and 1 cm allowance) on the goat suede leathers increases the bending length significantly thereby reducing the drape ability but the influence of single stitch on the bending length is negligible. On contrary, there is a significant increase in drape coefficient values for simple radial stitched as well as for seamed samples. The number of nodes generated reduced marginally upon the introduction of stitch or seam.
Originality/value
The paper provides the information on the effect of sewing on the drape characteristics of goat suede apparel leathers. This is the first of its kind study on leather as clothing material.