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States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.

States that bra design is a highly specialized process requiring a combination of design creativity, precision pattern making skills and a detailed knowledge of fabric performance. Although there is substantial published material cataloguing the historical origins of the garment, there is little information documenting the bra design and manufacture. Examines the design process, following a survey of professional designers. Describes a common framework along with the variations in individual working methods. Emphasizes the high dependence on heuristic knowledge and the reliance on physical prototyping in the design cycle.

The purpose of this paper is to introduce an approach to generating a basic bodice based on human body structure. The trimmed non‐uniform rational B‐spline (NURBS) method is applied to develop computer‐aided tailoring and styling capabilities in 3D fashion design.

Based on the body structure of the scanned subject, a parameterized method to intuitively generate adaptable bodices is proposed. NURBS surfaces are applied to provide an interactive styling design based on the preset bodice. To mimic dress shearing for any specific requirement, trimmed curves are applied to the NURBS‐based clothes. A simple periodic function is introduced to develop a wave‐like style garment.

Newly‐styled apparel designed in the third dimension is much more intuitive than conceptual drawings on paper. In order to create wearable garments using the computer‐aided apparel design tools, the expertise of pattern makers is necessary.

Interactive free form surface creation and its associated techniques, by means of trimmed NURBS, are applied to computer‐assisted garment design in three dimensions. The technique provides the designers with a more freely expressive means of creativity.

The aim of this paper was to explore the use of objective fabric parameters in 3D virtual garment simulation.

Two methods (fabric assurance by simple testing and Browzwear's fabric testing kit) of obtaining objective fabric measurements and the derived parameters for virtual garment simulation were studied. Three parameters (extension, shear and bend) were investigated to establish whether the selected virtual software derived comparable parameters from the objective fabric measurements.

It was found that the conversion from the objective fabric measurement data to the required parameters for virtual simulation varied significantly. Manual analysis of the objective measurements showed the two test methods to be comparable for extension and shear parameters; However, some adjustment to the test method was required. The third parameter to be investigated (bending rigidity) concluded that the test methods and results obtained from the two different apparatus were not comparable and recommended further experimentation using a different testing technique.

Future research should be conducted on a larger variety of fabrics ensuring comparable loads are used in the testing of the extensibility parameters. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.

Objective measurement of extension, shear and bend properties was investigated in relation to the derived parameters for a selected virtual simulation package. An understanding of such parameters will aid the general industry in adapting 3D virtual garment simulation as part of the standard product development process, resulting in a significantly shorter product development cycle.

The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment.

Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties.

Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented.

There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies.

Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

The purpose of this paper is to discuss how brassiere manufacturers develop new designs for bra products, suitable for individual consumers, through consumer codesign.

New product design that relies on conjoint analysis algorithms can depict multidimensional attribute profiles, such that consumers' choice behavior reflects their preferences and overall judgment of the profiles. This statistical technique provides a means to codesign and customize bra products and thereby enhance the overall bra design process.

Bra products codesign suggests goals such as attractive appearance, shoulder strap style, vivid/mild color, elegance/sexy lace, comfort/practicality, fabric, lining, comfort/attractive appearance, neckline design, comfort/excellent function cut, sewn cups, and generous quantities. The most preferred combination of attributes for all respondents is a cotton/cotton blend fabric, seamless bra that offers a detachable shoulder strap, lavender color, a two‐strap style, lace details, and a low‐cut plunge neckline. The paper illustrates consumers' bra awareness attributes, codesign approach, and individual optimum individualized bra designs.

The results provide a useful source of information for product managers, who should consider the use of codesign to design the best products for individual consumers and decrease the risk of design failure, as well as promote consumer loyalty and satisfaction toward the product.

The paper provides a unique method to understand the new product codesign structure and make bra product design decisions that integrate optimum individualized design.

The purpose of this paper is to examine the uplifting effect of a prototype brassiere that the author developed in Shanghai, China, for Chinese adult females in their early twenties.

The prototype brassiere was designed according to the four breast shapes of Chinese adult females. In total, 40 breast‐related measurement items were used to quantify the body sizes of 20 subjects, who were measured both with and without the brassieres.

The results of the comparison showed significant differences in breast position, the degree of sagging, the distance between the breasts, and the bottom area of the breasts between the two contexts. This study confirms the uplifting effect of the prototype brassiere, which can produce cleavage and elevate breasts.

The findings are based on an experimental method that quantifies the uplifting effect of the prototype brassiere using body measurement data obtained from local women in Shanghai, China. They provide empirical criteria for manufacturing brassieres to the Chinese intimate apparel industry, which lacks a standardized measurement system.