Maria L. Mpampa, Philip N. Azariadis and Nickolas S. Sapidis
The purpose of this paper is to derive a new method for developing sizing systems for the mass customization of garments.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to derive a new method for developing sizing systems for the mass customization of garments.
Design/methodology/approach
A range of recently published works has been studied. A new method is derived by following a basic statistical analysis on anthropometric data which are supported by an iterative mass customization model and introduced “satisfaction performance” indices. The derived method is applied successfully to an anthropometric data consisting of 12,810 Greek men.
Findings
With the proposed method, it is possible to control the degree of mass customization and the corresponding number of garment sizes. Under this way, a balance between the number of sizes (in other words: production cost) and the percentage satisfaction of consumers can be achieved. The proposed method consists of six subsequent tasks which are applied to the target population data for the development of mass customization models for male shirts, coats and trousers.
Research limitations/implications
Future work could be focused on the development of methods for the automatic garments grading with respect to the proposed mass customization models and practise.
Originality/value
The methodology presented in this paper can be applied to the development of mass customization models for other categories of garments and target population.
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Amir Tjolleng, Kihyo Jung, Hyunsook Han, Hyunjung Han and Jayoung Cho
Size fit and economic efficiency are two crucial aspects that need to be considered in designing a sizing system. However, there could exist a trade-off between those aspects in…
Abstract
Purpose
Size fit and economic efficiency are two crucial aspects that need to be considered in designing a sizing system. However, there could exist a trade-off between those aspects in order to establish a practical sizing system. The purpose of this paper is to develop a sequential hybrid method of grid and optimization to generate a practical sizing system using anthropometric data.
Design/methodology/approach
The proposed sequential hybrid method consisted of two sequential steps, which employs grid method and optimization method. In the initial step, the grid method creates primary grids that accommodate a designated percentage (e.g. 90%) of users with best size fit. In the subsequent step, the optimization method generated additional grids to provide acceptable fit, with minimum fit penalty scores for users unaccommodated by the primary grids. Our method was applied to the development of a sizing system for men's military jackets. The proposed method performances were evaluated in terms of accommodation percentage, size fit and number of sizing categories.
Findings
Our proposed method resulted in 26 primary grids during the initial step, which cover 90% of users. Next, we generated six additional grids during the subsequent step that provide minimum fit penalty scores for the rest (10%) users.
Originality/value
The main contributions of this paper are as follows: consider accommodation percentage, size fit and number of sizing categories in the design of sizing system; combine the grid and optimization methods and evaluate a sizing system for men's military jackets. The proposed method is applicable to develop optimal sizing systems for multiple-size products.
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A simple easy to follow statistical approach has been proposed for developing body size charts from anthropometric data. It has been possible to cover 95 percent of the population…
Abstract
A simple easy to follow statistical approach has been proposed for developing body size charts from anthropometric data. It has been possible to cover 95 percent of the population using 11 size charts. Multivariate analysis was carried out to detect relationships between variables. Principal component analysis was carried out to identify the key body measurements which can form the basis for classifying the population. Bust for the upper body and hip for the lower body were identified as the critical dimensions affecting garment fit. Body shapes and their distribution within the population have been identified. Validation of size charts was done by calculating the aggregate loss of fit.
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Jie Pei, Huiju Park, Susan P. Ashdown and Arzu Vuruskan
The purpose of this paper is to identify common issues among commercial body size charts, and to propose a sizing improvement methodology without changing the number of sizes in…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to identify common issues among commercial body size charts, and to propose a sizing improvement methodology without changing the number of sizes in the range. One goal is to equalize the number of people accommodated by each size within the range, and to propose a way to evaluate the effectiveness of the improvement.
Design/methodology/approach
The proposed method consists of three phases: (Phase I) identify target population; (Phase II) analysis of existing size charts; and (Phase III) improvement of the initial size chart. Phase III is the key process, which includes repeated manipulation of intersize intervals of the three primary measurements (chest, waist and hip) for improved consistency of overall and interior accommodate rates among the three measurement categories. A program was developed in RStudio® to generate trials and side-by-side bar plots for visualization of the differences in accommodate rates.
Findings
The main issue in commercial body size charts observed is the inconsistency of the interior accommodation rates among measurement categories. Some other issues include: lack of important measurements, failure to provide ranges and gaps between measurement ranges of adjacent sizes.
Originality/value
This paper proposed a complete work flow to improve body size charts to fix the common issues. The method integrates historic size information and new anthropometric information extracted from a national-scale sizing database (e.g. SizeUSA). The study also brought association of the secondary body measurements with primary measurements without using linear regression. Hence, information from body size charts can be more efficiently used in acquiring other size information.
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The purpose of this paper is to present a model of researching clothing anthropometrics at the Manchester Metropolitan University in the UK (MMU model), to demonstrate steps in…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to present a model of researching clothing anthropometrics at the Manchester Metropolitan University in the UK (MMU model), to demonstrate steps in devising size charts by analysing raw data, to relate key aspects of size charts to raw data, and to generate debate on such methods that impinge on the disseminated knowledge in this specialised area. Although sizing is important to consumers, retailers and manufacturers, this area has received scarce attention in the literature.
Design/methodology/approach
The MMU model presents step‐by‐step processes in generating size charts. Data from 150 women generated descriptive statistics (mean, standard deviation, percentiles); these were utilised to devise seven sizes of a body measurements table. Correlations were used to determine relationships, resulting in size charts with a defined size range and grading increments that are relatable to utilisation by consumers, retailers and manufacturers.
Findings
A step‐by ‐step model of analysing raw data is presented. A verifiable size chart, codes, grading increments and size limits relatable to data are generated. The usefulness of size charts is therefore contextualised.
Research limitations/implications
This paper discusses only one model of researching clothing anthropometrics and provides a related conceptual framework; this could be the basis for future research and debate in this area.
Practical implications
For competitiveness, efficient sizing is useful for marketing, especially in creating niches, targeting customers and facilitating consumer satisfaction.
Originality/value
The MMU model provides an initial conceptual framework at one institution, a benchmark for similar practice in academia and industry and subsequent debate in literature.
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Deepasri Prabhakar and Sudhakar Rajagopal
The concept of developing clothing sizes has taken importance in recent years due to increasing expectations of consumers for branded clothing and its value in terms of fit and…
Abstract
Purpose
The concept of developing clothing sizes has taken importance in recent years due to increasing expectations of consumers for branded clothing and its value in terms of fit and durability. The kids’ ready-to-wear brands are expected to pose the least fit issues, thereby covering a wider population of a particular size. This necessitates the standardization of measurements. The lack of standardized approaches has caused fit issues like mismatching of sizes and alterations, in a heterogenous consumer market, like India. The performance of branded apparel depends on the quality of the measurements considered in developing sizes and the approach for standardization. There is a lacuna in the measurements used by the kids’ apparel domestic brands. This study aims to propose an anthropometric approach for deriving quality measurements that can be used effectively in developing kids’ sizes to fit a wider population of kids, thereby reducing the need for alterations.
Design/methodology/approach
The measurement data was gathered through the quantitative method. An anthropometric survey was conducted by measuring school kids. A total of 544 kids (girls and boys) of age group 6–8 years were measured to obtain prime anthropometric measurements required for ready-to-wear apparel production. WHO manual and ISO 8559, 1998 meant for anthropometry survey for garment industry was referred for accurate measuring following the landmarks for measuring.
Findings
The findings revealed differences in the anthropometric measurements based on gender and age. The anthropometric measurements showed variations within the same body mass index (BMI) range. S, M and L sizes were identified within an age group. The apparel manufacturers and designers need to focus on the discrepancies occurring in the body measurements of an age group to address and control fit issues in kids ready to wear apparel.
Practical implications
The anthropometric approach can be significantly used to control undesired fit and comfort issues in kids’ ready-to-wear apparel.
Originality/value
This study helped to understand the importance of scientific measuring practices to arrive at standardized measurements to develop sizes in ready-to-wear apparel manufacturing.
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Niina Hernández, Heikki Mattila and Lena Berglin
The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group.
Design/methodology/approach
Using an empirical–analytical methodology, the systematic model was tested. The input data were run through the model to generate the output data, which were analysed, including basic statistics. The purpose of the analysis was to detect misfit and improve the garment measurement chart. This procedure was repeated until a clear result was reached.
Findings
The result of this study is an optimised garment measurement chart, which considers the garment’s ease, different sizes/proportions in relation to a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions.
Research limitations/implications
Further studies are needed to verify the results of the theoretical garment fit and their values in relation to real garment fit.
Practical implications
If the systematic model is implemented to improve the theoretical garment fit, this may have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting in increased theoretical garment fit for the target group.
Originality/value
The paper presents a systematic model for detecting and eliminating theoretical fitting; the model includes both garment ease allowance and defined points of misfit.
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The main objective of this study is to examine the claim of economic value added (EVA) proponents about its superiority as a financial performance measure compared to five…
Abstract
Purpose
The main objective of this study is to examine the claim of economic value added (EVA) proponents about its superiority as a financial performance measure compared to five traditional performance measures, i.e. net operating profit after tax (NOPAT), cash flow from operations (OCF), earnings per share (EPS), return on capital employed (ROCE) and return on equity (ROE) in Indian manufacturing sector, and simultaneously provide its empirical evidences. To achieve this, relative and incremental information content of various performance measures and their relationship with market value added (MVA) is tested and examined.
Design/methodology/approach
Principal component analysis (PCA) is one of the important multivariate methods utilized in business research for data reduction, latent variable modeling, multicollinearity resolution, etc. The present sample consists of 608 firm‐year observations from the Indian manufacturing sector for the period 2000‐2007. Firstly, principal component analysis (PCA) is employed to determine the important variables that explain market value. Secondly, alongside PCA, multiple regression models (OLS) are used to examine the relative and incremental information content of EVA and traditional performance measures.
Findings
These results about PCA reveal that variables like NOPAT, OCF, ROE, ROCE and EVA have maximum influence on the market value (MVA) of the sample companies, whereas EPS has a negative loading, so, EPS is discarded for further analysis. Further, the PCA loading matrix reveals that NOPAT, OCF, ROE and ROCE outscore EVA. The regression results regarding the relative information content test reveal that NOAPT and OCF outperform EVA in explaining the market value of Indian companies. The incremental information content test shows that EVA makes a marginal contribution to information content beyond NOPAT, OCF, ROCE and ROE. Overall, these empirical results about Indian companies do not support the Stern Stewart hypothesis that EVA is superior to traditional accounting‐based measures in association with market value of the firm.
Originality/value
The study concludes that along with financial variables, other non‐financial variables such as employees, product quality, etc., should be considered in order to capture the unexplained variation in the market value of Indian companies.
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The purpose of this paper was to develop the first standard apparel sizing system for Saudi adult female population originating from anthropometric study using three-dimensional…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper was to develop the first standard apparel sizing system for Saudi adult female population originating from anthropometric study using three-dimensional (3D) body scanner.
Design/methodology/approach
An anthropometric survey was conducted in four regions of the country where 1,074 participants between the ages of 18 and 63 were scanned using white light 3D body scanner. K-means cluster analysis using stature and hip girth as control variables produced the proposed sizing system, whereas regression equations were used to determine the parameters between measurements of different sizes.
Findings
Three sizing groups with 12 size designations in each totalling 36 size designations were identified. The sizing charts developed in this study show that key girth measurement ranges of chest, waist and hips are comparable to that of ISO standard and (ASTM D5585-11), while the Saudi female population falls into shorter height brackets than ISO and ASTM standards.
Originality/value
In this study, the first anthropometric database for Saudi female population was established using 3D body scanning technology, and a sizing system for this target population was developed.
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Deepasri Prabhakar and Sudhakar Rajagopal
This study aims to probe customers’ expectations and explore discrepancies across various domestic kids’ ready to wear (RTW) apparel brands for measurements, fit, shape and…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to probe customers’ expectations and explore discrepancies across various domestic kids’ ready to wear (RTW) apparel brands for measurements, fit, shape and labelling/nomenclature.
Design/methodology/approach
Data were collected through qualitative and quantitative methods. Interviews were held with the consumers to understand their perceptions and expectations with the kids’ wear brands for measurements, fit and labelling. The approach had a twofolded purpose of addressing the consumers’ dissatisfaction and the apparel manufacturer’s perspective.
Findings
The results indicated that 87% of consumers gave importance to well-fitted apparel. The apparel brands considered for the study showed inconsistency and discrepancies in the measurements, leading to consumer dissatisfaction and frustrations.
Research limitations/implications
The findings of the study may be useful for fashion academia, kids RTW apparel manufacturers and designers who can relate to the role of standard measurements and the varying body shapes in RTW apparel. They can work closer to develop innovative practices focusing on the fit challenges in kids RTW apparel.
Originality/value
The implication of the lack of any standard measurement for Indian kids for apparel is well-established in the study.