Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury and Biswajit Naskar
This paper aims to compare visual (Munsell) and instrumental (CIELAB) attributes of SCOTDIC colour standards.
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to compare visual (Munsell) and instrumental (CIELAB) attributes of SCOTDIC colour standards.
Design/methodology/approach
SCOTDIC cotton and polyester standards of defined hue, value and chroma were subjected to spectrophotometric assessment for finding the corresponding instrumental parameters. The visual and instrumental parameters were compared.
Findings
The correlation between SCOTDIC value and CIELAB lightness is quite high. Correlation coefficient between SCOTDIC hue and CIELAB hue angle and the correlation between SCOTDIC chroma and CIELAB chroma were only moderate because the CIELAB chroma varied widely at higher chroma. When the standards of SCOTDIC hues having erratic hue angles at two extremes are excluded, the Correlation coefficients between SCOTDIC hue and CIELAB hue angle become high.
Research limitations/implications
The psychophysical data (visual) are difficult to match with physical data (instrumental).
Originality/value
The object of the present research is to study and compare visual (Munsell) and instrumental (CIELAB) colorimetric parameters. Munsell scale is physically exemplified by SCOTDIC fabric samples available in two sets, namely, cotton and polyester sets.
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Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury and Biswapati Chatterjee
The purpose of this paper is to compare light fastness assessments by exposure of fabric dyes with various dyes in daylight and an artificial xenon arc lamp.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to compare light fastness assessments by exposure of fabric dyes with various dyes in daylight and an artificial xenon arc lamp.
Design/methodology/approach
Cotton fabric dyed with 66 reactive, vat, azoic and direct dyes dyed in different depths were exposed to daylight and Xenon arc lamp for assessment of light fastness by standard methods. The light fastness rating and fading hours by the two methods were analysed and compared statistically.
Findings
The correlation between the corresponding light fastness rating (LFR) measured in Xenotest and daylight is quite high (0.93). The logarithmic correlation coefficients between fading hour (FH) and LFR in Xenotest and daylight are 0.95 and 0.88, respectively. For Xenotest, the assessed LFRs are same as those predicted from geometric progression up to LFR of 5.5, and thereafter, the former is higher. On the other hand, in the case of daylight, the assessed LFR is lower. Assessments for three successive seasons showed high repeatability in case of Xenotest and moderate repeatability in case of daylight. Assessments for three successive seasons showed high repeatability in case of Xenotest and moderate repeatability in case of daylight.
Research limitations/implications
The exposure conditions in daylight cannot be controlled or standardised, whereas the exposure in Xenon arc lamp in the accelerated fading instrument can be strictly controlled. These differences in exposure control may affect the repeatability of experimental findings.
Practical implications
Inconsistent ratings may be because of little deterioration of samples during storage, as well as seasonal variation of daylight.
Social implications
There are no direct social implications.
Originality/value
The researches on the comparison of the two light fastness assessment methods have not been reported in any recent publication to the best our knowledge.
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Debojyoti Ganguly, Chanchal Mondal and Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury
In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on…
Abstract
Purpose
In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on the other hand, wool is responsible for resilience, softness and warmth properties. Chemically both the fibres are protein-based, but the amount of amino acids is different. Due to this, the dye absorption behaviours of the two fibres from the same dye-bath are different. Wool is become darker than the silk fibre, if both the fibres are dyed together in a single bath dyeing process.
Design/methodology/approach
Here the wool fibres are first pre-treated with a commercial synthetic tanning agent (syntan) Mesitol HWS at three different pH values of 2.2, 3.2 and 4.2 and at three different concentrations: 5, 10 and 15 per cent. Then the syntan pre-treated wool fibres are dyed together with silk fibres maintaining the blend ratio as 80:20 by Telon Red MR, Telon Yellow M4GL and Telon Blue MRLW with sodium sulphate at three different concentrations of 10, 20 and 30 per cent.
Findings
The dye absorbency of the syntan-treated wool fibres decreased with increase in syntan concentration, whereas the colour strength of silk fibres increased. The resist effectiveness of wool fibres is increased from 6 to 59 per cent with increase of syntan concentration. So after the dyeing process, the colour strength of syntan-treated wool fibres are almost same with the colour strength of silk fibres. The washing fastness of the samples is improved, and wash fastness behaviour of both wool and silk fibres is almost same.
Originality/value
This paper gives an idea about the one bath dyeing process of wool- and silk-blended fabrics to achieve solid dyeing effect.
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Prof. Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury and Mr. Suman Mitra
Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they…
Abstract
Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they lose in the market to synthetic dyes. However, in the handicraft sector, reproducibility may be of lesser importance against cost. In the present study, a domestic method of dyeing silk with the aqueous extract of raw plant/tree components (flower, leave, bark and root) by using a natural mordant and alum will be described. Good dyebath exhaustion and washing and light fastness are observed for some of the natural colouring matters.
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Debojyoti Ganguly, Chanchal Mondal and Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury
The purpose of this study is to optimize single-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend, to achieve uniform colour strength for both the fibre after the dyeing process. Due to…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to optimize single-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend, to achieve uniform colour strength for both the fibre after the dyeing process. Due to different absorption characteristics of wool and silk, two-stage dyeing is preferred in the industry. If the fibres are dyed together, the wool fibre becomes darker and the silk fibre becomes lighter after the dyeing process. Solid dyeing effect can be achieved using a single-bath dyeing process.
Design/methodology/approach
The dye-acceptor sites in the wool fibre are first blocked using one commercial syntan Mesitol HWS. Then, the syntan-treated wool and silk fibres (80:20 blend ratios) are dyed with Telon Navy AMF dyes in the presence of sodium sulphate. To explore the influence of Syntan, sodium sulphate and the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and to optimize the process, central composite design (CCD) of four factors and three levels was tested.
Findings
The design process is optimized using four independent variables: Mesitol HWS concentration, sodium sulphate concentration, pH of dyebath and temperature of dyeing. Three levels of Mesitol HWS concentration (5, 10 and 15 per cent), sodium sulphate concentration (10, 20 and 30 per cent), pH (2.5, 4 and 5.5) and temperature of dyeing (70, 80 and 900°C) were selected for this study. These variables are optimized using response surface regression equation of the ratio of K/S wool and K/S silk. The predicted equation matched well with the experimental data.
Originality/value
This paper proposes the use of one-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend fabric to reduce the dyeing time, process step and to save water.
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Syed Asim Ali Bukhari, Fathyah Hashim and Azlan Amran
The purpose of this study is to empirically examine the determinants and outcomes of Green Banking adoption and the moderating influence of top management commitment under the…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to empirically examine the determinants and outcomes of Green Banking adoption and the moderating influence of top management commitment under the corporate environmental ethics ideology. External stakeholder pressures are analyzed as determinants of Green Banking adoption. Brand image and operational efficiency are examined as outcomes of this business ideology. Green Banking adoption is adapted as a second-order construct with four first-order reflective constructs to ensure in-depth conceptualization of the construct.
Design/methodology/approach
Green Banking adoption is studied at the bank branch level in a developing country, i.e. Pakistan. The data is collected from the branch managers of 212 bank branches from five major cities of Pakistan through mails. Self-administered survey was used for the data collection. The data was analyzed through the application of partial least square-structured equation modeling in SMART PLS 3.2.9. The measurement model and the structural model of the research framework were analyzed through the two-stage approach of the second-order analysis.
Findings
The results indicate a positive relationship between customer and competitor pressure and Green Banking adoption among bank branches in Pakistan depicting an influence of various environmental ethical pressures on bank’s adoption practices. Community pressure was shown to have no significant influence on Green Banking adoption at the branch level. The moderator of top management commitment caused a positive influence on the relationship between all the studied stakeholder pressures and Green Banking adoption. Branch managers reported branch image and operational efficiency to be enhanced due to Green Banking adoption.
Originality/value
This study attempts to fill in the significant gap in Green Banking adoption literature through an empirical analysis of Green Banking’s second-order construct. Currently, limited literature exists on the various aspects of Green Banking adoption, and an empirical study has not been conducted at the bank branch level. The study contributes significant practical, theoretical and methodological contributions to the area of Green Banking.
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Haidar Abbas, Mohd Mehdi, Imran Azad and Guilherme F. Frederico
This study endeavours to (a) develop a comprehensive interpretive structural modelling (ISM) toolkit containing sufficient details about the suitability and procedural aspects of…
Abstract
Purpose
This study endeavours to (a) develop a comprehensive interpretive structural modelling (ISM) toolkit containing sufficient details about the suitability and procedural aspects of each ISM approach and offer points of reference for budding researchers, (b) highlight the compatibility of ISM approaches with other qualitative and quantitative approaches, and (c) chalk-out an agenda for future research.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on an extensive review of 74 studies where researchers have used one or more ISM approaches. These studies span across the different industry sectors.
Findings
There exists a huge void in terms of the methodological synthesis of ISM approaches. ISM approaches are frequently used in sync with other qualitative and quantitative approaches. Furthermore, it highlights the need of improving the robustness of the proposed ISM models by sharing the critical details of research process.
Research limitations/implications
Being a review-based work, it could not illustrate the discussed ISM approaches with real data. However, it offers a research agenda for the prospective researchers.
Practical implications
The prerequisites, pitfalls, suitability and the procedural aspects of various ISM approaches contained in this toolkit are equally useful for the academicians as well as practitioners.
Originality/value
In the absence of a synthesized framework, this study contributes a comprehensive ISM toolkit which will help the researchers to choose a suitable ISM approach in a given case.