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Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay, Vinay Kumar Midha and Nemai Chandra Ray

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Design/methodology/approach

Single base injected slub yarn structural parameters, vis-à-vis slub length, slub thickness and slub frequency, were varied during preparation of yarn samples under this research work. A total of 17 yarn samples were produced according to the Box and Bhenken design of the experiment. Subsequently knitted and woven (using injected slub yarns in the weft only) fabric samples were prepared from these yarns. Yarn and fabric samples were abraded with standard instruments to see the impact of yarn structural parameters on abrasive damage of fabric in terms of fabric mass loss and appearance deterioration. From the test results, empirical models relating to slub parameters and fabric abrasion behavior were developed through a backward elimination regression approach. Subsequently, a set of optimal parametric combinations was derived with multi-objective evolutionary algorithms by using MATLAB software. This was followed by ranking all optimal solutions through technique for order preference by similarity to idle solution (TOPSIS) score analysis.

Findings

The injected slub yarn’s structural parameters have a strong influence on the abrasive damage of knitted and woven fabric. It is seen that the best suitable parametric combination of slub parameters for achieving the least abrasive damage is not the same for knitted and woven fabric.

Practical implications

The spinner can explore this concept to find out the best suitable parametric combination during pattern making of injected slub yarn through MATLAB solution followed by TOPSIS score analysis based on their priority of criteria level to ensure better abrasion behavior of fabric produced.

Originality/value

Optimization of parametric combination of injected slub yarns will help to ensure production of fabric with most resistance to abrasion for specific applications. The studies showed that the optimal solution for woven and knitted fabrics is different. The result indicates that in the case of knitted fabric, comparatively lesser slub thickness is found to be suitable for getting better fabric abrasion resistance, whereas in the case of woven fabric, comparatively higher slub thickness is found suitable for the same.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 May 2022

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay and Vivek Prasad Shaw

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of…

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, stretch denim garments have become very popular amongst consumers as the garment is able to provide body fit and body comfort at the same time. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of abrasion on the change in surface appearance, mass loss and ultimate tensile properties of the stretch denim fabric in different directions (warp, weft and biased).

Design/methodology/approach

After abrading the fabrics in three different directions (warp, weft and biased), the loss in ultimate tensile properties, mass loss and surface appearance has been investigated in the respective directions of abrasion (warp, weft and biased). The study also encompasses the effect of different types of stretch yarn with varying levels of elastane content on such unidirectional abrasive damage.

Findings

It is seen that with the same level of abrasion cycles, the fabric's response in terms of mass loss and loss in ultimate tensile properties are different in different directions. The mass loss due to abrasion in biased direction is found to be minimum. The loss in ultimate tensile properties due to abrasion was highest in the weft direction. It is also found that the higher mass loss due to abrasion does not always result in a greater loss in ultimate tensile properties. The composition and the structure of the weft yarn significantly affected the extent of the mass loss and the loss in ultimate tensile properties during abrasive damage.

Originality/value

The impact of abrasive damage in terms of mass loss and loss in tensile strength along the different directions of denim fabric has not been explored till date. Abrasion of fabric can be done both in multi-direction (Lissajous motion) as well as in uni-direction (linear motion). The multidirectional abrasion provides a holistic or comprehensive idea of the fabric's response to the abrasive damage but does not take into consideration the fabric's anisotropic response to the abrasive damage. Most of the earlier investigation related to abrasive damage of denim fabric has been done in instruments where the motion of the abrader is multidirectional (Lissajous) in nature. For greater depth of understanding about the fabric performance under abrasive damage along the various direction (warp, weft and biased), unidirectional abrasion is conducted in this study.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 December 2022

Agya Preet, Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay and Vinay Kumar Midha

Sweating is thermo-regulatory behaviour that occurs when a person performs vigorous activity even in cold climatic condition. One of important component of sweat is the presence…

Abstract

Purpose

Sweating is thermo-regulatory behaviour that occurs when a person performs vigorous activity even in cold climatic condition. One of important component of sweat is the presence of lactate. Based on climatic condition, age, gender, maturity and nature of activity level, the change in lactate concentration is inevitable. Hence, the present study is focussed on the impact of change in the lactate concentration on the moisture transmission behaviour through the clothing. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the impact of changing lactate concentration on the moisture vapour transmission behaviour through multi-layered clothing ensembles.

Design/methodology/approach

For the investigation, sweat solution representing male and female sweat were taken for present study. Two different multi-layered ensembles consisting of either spacer or fleece as middle layer were considered. The water vapour permeability and drying rate test were done at standard atmospheric conditions. After testing, ANOVA analysis was done in order to determine the most significant parameters.

Findings

Fabric structure (constituent layers) behaved differently when tested individually and as the layered component with different sweat solutions. Water vapour permeability of sweat solution with higher lactate concentration was lower as compared to sweat solution with lower lactate concentration. Individual layers showed higher rate of vapour permeability with sweat solution containing lower lactate concentration as compared to multi-layered ensembles. Role of PU coated nylon fabric was predominant in case of multi-layered ensembles. Difference in transmission of sweat solution was found higher in case of uni-directional stitched multi-layer spacer ensembles whereas marginal difference was observed in case of bi-directional seamed multi-layer spacer ensemble. Drying rate of sweat containing lower concentration of lactate was higher as compared to the other sweat solution for all the selected fabrics. Density of liquid and amount of the water available for drying influenced the drying behaviour and thus accounted for difference in drying rate of sweat solution differing in the lactate concentration. The contribution percentage of layers, i.e. type of structure was higher (nearly 93–96%) compared to that of solution type (3.3–4.9%) in case of individual layers whereas in the case of the multi-layer ensembles; type of seam had maximum contribution percentage (71–77%) followed by solution type (10–15%). Type of layers had least contribution percentage (nearly 7–9%).

Practical implications

The findings from the study are expected to be realistic and important in designing and development of cold weather garment ensemble for different gender type depending on their activity level especially in case of military personnel and those performing combat activities.

Originality/value

This experimental work based will provide the insight about the behaviour of actual sweat transmission through the layered fabric ensembles and ways to prevent the accumulation of moisture near to human skin surface by manufacturing suitable design structures (in terms of layering composition and seam patterns) per the morphology and requirement of specific consumers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 October 2024

Kumari Neha, Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay and Monica Puri Sikka

Climbing ropes are made to withstand severe stresses and absorb energy during fall, reducing the impact force on the climber and their equipment. Natural fibres like hemp and…

Abstract

Purpose

Climbing ropes are made to withstand severe stresses and absorb energy during fall, reducing the impact force on the climber and their equipment. Natural fibres like hemp and sisal have been mostly substituted by synthetic fibres like nylon, polyester and aramid fibres, which provide greater strength, durability and flexibility. The performance of climbing ropes can deteriorate due to moisture exposure, UV radiation and abrasion during outdoor activities.

Design/methodology/approach

This review examines the transition from natural to synthetic fibres and advances in material and construction techniques. The analysis also examines how construction methods, ranging from traditionally laid ropes to current braided kernmantle designs, affect rope strength, elasticity and handling qualities. Furthermore, the paper analyses how the fibres influence the rope’s behaviour under various conditions, such as dynamic loading, wear and tear, fatigue and exposure to environmental variables such as moisture, temperature and UV light.

Findings

Ropes should have lower peak forces and greater dynamic elongations, resulting in decreased maximum accelerations, increased energy absorption, reduced jerk and lower forces on safety components during fall arrest. It gives recommendations for future research areas to optimize climbing rope design.

Originality/value

The systematic literature review in this study is focused on the performance of climbing ropes, including the raw materials and construction, as well as the impact of weathering and service conditions.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 September 2021

Vivek Prasad Shaw and Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the…

Abstract

Purpose

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the effect of abrasion on the durability of comfort related to body movement and shape retention property of the stretch-denim fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper investigates the effect of abrasion on the initial tensile properties, recovery and resilience properties of the stretch-denim fabric. Further, to analyse the effect of the composition of the elastane yarn, three different types of elastane yarns having different types of sheath (covering) fibre, structure and different levels of elastane content have been used in the weft.

Findings

The comfort related to body movement and the shape retention properties of the stretch-denim fabric got affected due to abrasive damage. The elastane yarn composition and structure played an important role in determining the extent of the change in such properties during abrasion. The fabric with a higher level of elastane content suffered a greater loss in shape-retention properties due to abrasion. The extent of mass loss in stretch-denim fabric does not always correlate to the extent of loss in the comfort and shape-retention properties.

Originality/value

Most of the earlier studies have investigated the effect of abrasion on the durability aspect of the stretch-denim fabric. In a practical scenario, the stretch-denim garments are rarely discarded due to tearing or change in appearance but mainly due to bagging, i.e. distortion in shape after usage. Thus, the study on the combined effect of the abrasion and cyclic loading on the comfort and shape-retention properties will help to predict the performance of the apparel during usage.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2011

Vinay Kumar Midha, A Mukhopadhyay and Ramanpreet Kaur

Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict the seam…

Abstract

Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict the seam strength to ascertain the performance of the garments during use and determine the required thread strength and stitch density to match the required seam strength. In all of the earlier predictive equations, seam strength is predicted from thread strength and stitch density along with some multiplicative factors. During the sewing process, a substantial loss in needle thread strength occurs; therefore, the thread becomes weaker than expected after incorporation into the seam. In this paper, the effects of various machine and process parameters are studied on thread strength loss and seam strength. The seam strength is predicted from the loop strength after considering the loss in thread strength. It is observed that higher seam strengths are observed when stronger threads are used for sewing. Loss in thread strength has a significant influence on the seam strength. Seam strength can be predicted using stitch density and thread loop strength, by considering the loss in thread strength during the sewing process. A closer match between predicted and experimental seam strength is possible.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 15 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 July 2006

Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay, Subrata Ghosh and Somes Bhaumik

This paper seeks to report an experimental investigation on the tearing and tensile strength behaviour of military khaki fabrics from grey to finished process.

1163

Abstract

Purpose

This paper seeks to report an experimental investigation on the tearing and tensile strength behaviour of military khaki fabrics from grey to finished process.

Design/methodology/approach

Uses three different types of military fabric (3 up 1 down twill), differing in type of constituent yarns (ring/rotor) in order to test their tearing and testing strength behaviour.

Findings

Tearing strength of fabric is found to be very much susceptible to change due to the process variation, while fabric tensile strength is relatively less sensitive. Ring spun yarn fabric shows higher tearing strength compared with rotor spun yarn fabric. However, the difference in their tearing strength reduces substantially as the process approaches towards the finished state. On the other hand, rotor spun yarn fabric exhibits higher tensile strength along the warp. Tearing strength along bias direction is in between warp and weft wise tearing strength; whereas tensile strength is lowest while tested along the bias direction. During the grey to finished process, tear strength falls at bleaching and dyeing, and particularly drops in strength is being more at the dyeing stage.

Originality/value

This study has investigated the tearing and tensile strength behaviour of military khaki fabrics from grey to finished state, developing understanding of the impact of different processes on the tearing strength, so that fabric of the required tear strength can be developed with process modification.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 November 2007

George K. Stylios

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1607

Abstract

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 November 2006

George K. Stylios

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects…

1111

Abstract

Examines the twelfth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 November 2008

George K. Stylios

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1278

Abstract

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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