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Despite menswear is gaining a significant relevance in terms of retail sales, it represents a neglected topic within the academic literature. Therefore, this paper aims at providing a better understanding of the formal menswear market by developing a tailor-made classification model for the identification of retailers' clusters and at discovering the critical success factors (CSFs).

This research looked at most formal high-end menswear retailers in Italy adopting a methodology based on the Analytic Hierarchy Process and multiple case studies. Thirty interviews were conducted with experts, managers and shopkeepers from case studies.

The study develops for the first time a classification framework of formal high-end menswear retailers and a matching matrix to jointly analyse retailers' clusters and customer profiles in Italy. The results identify the CSFs pursued by menswear retailers and highlight the existence of four clusters of retailers (Differentiated Fashion Firms; Formal Menswear Leaders; Tailoring Firms and Luxury Brands) and seven customer profiles (Habitual Professionals, Special Events, Young People, Occasional Professionals, Foreigners, VIPs and Fashionistas).

The formal high-end menswear represents one of the most traditional Italian heritage markets while being almost ignored in the academic literature. Thus, the value of this research lays in deepening our understanding of this market from the retailers' perspective, by providing for the first time a taxonomy of its players and contributing to identifying the CSFs and the main customer profiles.

Globalization and advanced manufacturing capabilities changed industrial dynamics. To this end, not only were new retail concepts developed to broaden the distribution toward larger consumer bases, but alternative ways were also sought to reorganize supply networks for a balance between local and global production. Yet, the choice of supply network configurations must be coherent with a fashion companies’ critical success factors. Hence, it is pivotal to understand how such large brand portfolios and global supply networks could be effectively managed in a united way. In this vein, the purpose of this paper is to explain how the triplet of product, brand, and retail channel could affect SC performance, and how the positioning of a luxury company could depend on managerial attitudes.

Subsequent to an extensive literature review, 30 most frequently quoted key performance indicators (KPIs) were derived. A Delphi study was then employed to reach a consensus and 17 key KPIs were derived considering the key SC performance areas and marketing dimensions. Survey technique was deployed to examine the impact of strategic combinations of product, brand, and retail channel on SC strategy. Survey results were analyzed through factor analysis where five principal components emerged to represent performance areas. ANOVA technique was then employed to explore the dependence between product-brand-retail channel and key performance areas.

Brand, retail channel, and product directly affect operational performance. The positioning of a fashion company would depend on its management attitude toward strategy segmentation and considered stage of the SC. The respondents’ profile analysis further showed a preference to segment the SC based on products. Interestingly, this finding is not aligned with earlier research (Brun and Castelli, 2008) suggesting that the brand was to become the most relevant driver for SC segmentation.

Academic development and empirical testing is rather rare in the luxury fashion context. Undeniably, SC strategies represent a very relevant issue for fashion companies, and the present study could be considered a first statistical step toward SC segmentation for luxury fashion companies.

Customers influence companies’ operational strategies and supply chain (SC) processes. In this vein, signals coming from the market must be translated into proper strategies in terms of production and supply. The purpose of this paper is to provide an understanding on how to transform customers’ expectations into SC decisions. The yacht industry, encompassing both technical and emotional peculiarities, becomes this study’s driven focus to interrogate the interrelationship between supply and demand.

The study explores the luxury yacht industry through exploratory case studies conducted with eight companies operating in Italy.

It was found that a wide range of factors influenced customers. That is to say, brand reputation, other brands’ involvement in the final product and emotional appeal were the most distinguishing characteristics identifying emotion-oriented customers. In this sense, companies serving such customers adjusted their SC strategies to channel a direct emotional impact. It was noticed that personalization was pivotal and companies were increasingly required to customize and create unique products to attract and further satisfy the customers. Thus, multiple sourcing strategies were often employed with an increasing number of suppliers to ensure that increasing material supply need would be met. As for performance-oriented companies, cost, quality and innovation capabilities emerged as key signals to be embedded in operations management. Companies serving performance-oriented customers were characterized by low product value and medium level of customization, and kept their core activities, including design and architecture, vertically integrated. In order to generate cost advantages without compromising product quality, single sourcing strategy was largely implemented. What the findings suggested is that the customization level and the product value were positively correlated. To illustrate, companies having more exclusive products were found allowing their customization and customer involvement in higher degrees.

Due to a relatively unexplored nature of the phenomenon, this study opted for a method by which individual and collective reconstructions were explored in a not well-investigated area, that is, the luxury yacht industry.

Failure mode and effect analysis (FMEA) is an analysis technique for identifying and eliminating known and/or potential failures and problems from products, processes or systems. Notwithstanding its diffusion, traditional FMEA has several limitations. Lately, scientific research has been focused on improving said limitations, yet the process is still ongoing. The purpose of this paper is to support developments in this area.

The paper improves the conventional FMEA by using the method of pairwise comparison to establish the relative importance of the input factors in risk priority number calculation, and Markov chains to calculate risk distributions in the long term.

The functioning and usefulness of the proposed methodology is demonstrated through an application to the construction industry, one of the world’s biggest industrial sectors, dogged by a high rate of work-related injuries and casualties.

Having demonstrated the applicability of the novel methodology to a real domain, the paper contributes to the process of overcoming traditional FMEA limitations.

The purpose of this paper is threefold: first, to analyse the current state of the literature on the relationship between quality management (QM) and productivity as a performance indicator; second, to identify the key constructs of QM practices related to productivity; and, finally, to reveal whether QM can actually be regarded as a determinant of productivity.

This research was carried out through a systematic literature review, considering 150 papers that studied this relationship between 1997 and 2017 and another 37 papers on the internal determinants of productivity.

The findings revealed that human resource management, top management and process management were the more relevant constructs of QM practices related to productivity. In addition, 89 per cent of the internal determinants of productivity were related to the proposed constructs of QM practices, which suggest that QM is a determinant factor of productivity.

This review analysed the literature on the relationship between QM and productivity, as few studies have done before, generating original, interesting and useful findings that can guide future research and that also represent a useful tool for researchers, practitioners, managers and policy makers.

The purpose of this paper is threefold: to provide an overview of the literature defining “luxury”; to suggest that luxury goods be distinguished from other goods through the presence of critical success factors (CSF) and to identify different dimensions of luxury; and to introduce a new classification framework to analyse luxury consumers profiles and to explain the personal perception of luxury.

The first part of the paper is a critical discussion of the literature around the concept of luxury; the second part shows the application of an original classification framework, validated through a number of focus groups carried out with participants of Masters and executive training courses.

The concept of luxury is a multifaceted one. A comprehensive approach to classify luxury consumers is used first of all to reveal different customer profiles, and also to prove that the tangible/intangible and personal/social distinctions are relevant for understanding the motivations underlying the purchase of a luxury product.

The model has been validated using four “archetypal” luxury goods (a bag, a bracelet, and so on). Nonetheless, the range of possible luxury goods and the set of possible consumer ' s motives behind luxury spend are so wide that a much more extended testing is required.

The newly proposed model would allow a luxury company to better assess their target market and their current customers, while scholars and analysts might find it useful to define the scope of the luxury market when estimating market figures.

The purpose of this paper is to show how it is possible to take into account the objectives that fashion-luxury companies pursue on the final market (i.e. critical success factors (CSF) – of luxury) and propagate them in the upstream steps of the supply chain (SC) in order to understand how the latter can be aligned to the market.

An extensive literature review allowed the identification of SC objectives. Case studies were used in order to asses choices and practices applied along the SC of luxury companies were assessed through in depth case studies; hence, the relationship between choices/practices, SC objectives and luxury CSF was explored.

The paper documents that success in the luxury market not only depends on branding and marketing but also on the choices made along the SC, to the point that it is possible to identify some SC choices and practices that support the achievement of luxury CSF.

The results presented represent a useful guideline and offer some methodological suggestions; however, the precise set of SC objectives have to be tailored on each specific brand, according to the uniqueness that characterizes luxury companies.

The paper suggests which areas of the SC should be mostly targeted in order to achieve success in the luxury market, also indicating some possible concrete choices.

The main value of this paper consists in shaping a first explicit connection among the world of luxury as it is perceived by the consumers and the world of the SC.

This paper aims at developing a conceptual framework to identify the main features of supply chain innovation and to analyse the role of dynamic capabilities in implementing such innovations in the context of the fashion-luxury industry.

The paper follows an exploratory approach based on one in-depth case study. The theoretical framework, developed through the literature review, is applied to a Italian fashion-luxury company, thus exploring its applicability in a real context and obtaining evidence in the area of supply chain innovation.

The paper offers insights on supply chain innovation, by investigating an area under-explored in the existing literature. The paper provides a conceptual framework oriented to analyse the main features of supply chain innovation for fashion-luxury companies, by investigating the main determinants of innovation.

The proposed model provides initial insights into the topic of supply chain innovation in fashion-luxury companies. To date, the analysis is predominantly qualitative and therefore replication is needed to generalise the results.

The paper identifies three different perspectives of supply chain innovation and the relationships between supply chain innovation and other types of innovations, which are hopefully useful for managers that are willing to introduce innovation inside fashion-luxury companies.

The paper addresses a new topic, underexplored in the supply chain management literature, by considering a peculiar area of investigation, the fashion-luxury. Moreover, the paper investigates the topic of supply chain innovation through the support of empirical data.

The purpose of this paper is to identify the organisation of the quality department and the management of the supply chain (SC) used by luxury companies to achieve quality requirements.

The paper follows an exploratory approach using a case-based methodology. Data are collected through eight case studies with French luxury companies.

The paper offers insights into the management of quality for luxury companies. The paper illustrates the main determinants of the adoption of the specific quality organisations; moreover, the paper identifies the main approaches adopted by luxury companies at the SC level to control the quality along the whole chain. For example, the paper raised that all accessible and aspirational luxury companies present a full-time quality department whereas a part-time approach is identified for high-luxury companies. In high-luxury companies, quality issues are perceived as critical elements to be monitored not just by one specific department but by each and every company employees; on the contrary, in the other companies the approach towards quality is more similar to the one of mass-market companies.

The research provides initial insights into the important role of quality in luxury companies. To date, the analysis is predominantly qualitative and not sufficiently statistically significant to generalise the results.

This paper raises a number of important issues for luxury companies who are not advance yet in structurally managed quality issues into their companies but especially their SCs.

This paper is one of the first attempts to study quality management specifically applied to luxury companies, with a main focus on the organisation of the quality department as well as the SC.