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Replacing conventional mordants by benign mordants, rare earth (RE) salts have been used in the process of natural dyeing with annatto seed extract. The purpose was threefold – first, to increase the dye uptake through these new mordants; second, to have better fastness properties of dyed swatches and third, to have lesser effluent pollution, as the new RE mordants are used in one-tenth quantities only.

Sustainable natural dyeing was attained by using RE salts as mordant in one-tenth quantity, for natural dyeing, replacing the conventional mordants such as alum and ferrous sulphate. Annatto extract has been used as natural dye.

Through the study, it was inferred that the natural dyeing using annatto seed extract gives very good colour depth on the dyed swatches and also shows marked improvement in fastness properties.

Research implication is that often it is expected that any new chemical used in the textile processing adds on to the effluent load; however, contrary to that, this study found that the use of RE salt is very beneficial as it is used in smaller quantities, but gives far better dyeing results.

RE salts can be used in natural dyeing without causing any harm to the environment and dyers.

Use of RE salts in natural dyeing is a new concept. It is a very safe technology and can be used without causing any harm to the environment and the dyers.

This study is unique as it focuses on the use of RE salts in natural dyeing replacing the conventional mordants, which are used ten times more in quantity.

Development project implementation involving ecological and social externalities is an iterative process due to dynamic challenges emerging from the need to reconcile multiple, and often conflicting, interests of stakeholders. Stakeholder interactions result in learnings for project developers as well as policy makers. This paper aims to track corporate-civil society organizations-state interactions and learnings in case of a port development project in an eco-sensitive and socially challenging region of India.

The authors try to unpack the interactions among various stakeholders in the case of development of Dhamra Port being developed by the Dhamra Port Company Ltd, in the state of Orissa, India.

The authors find that sustainable development policy formulation and implementation is an evolutionary process involving plugging of governance gaps at each successive stage with civil society actors playing an active role.

The study is based on single case of a major port development in India.

The paper highlights that development in emerging economies through large projects is unavoidable. The development-sustainability dilemma cannot be overlooked any further; rather, it needs to be resolved with complete participation of all involved stakeholders.

The paper provides account of long and complex interactions among various players involved in developmental project in an emerging economy. The learnings from the paper will be relevant for policymakers, corporate executives and civil society activists.