A.M. Manich, J.P. Domingues and R.M. Sauri
Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and Renault…
Abstract
Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and Renault methods for seaming properties determination. According to measuring principles they could be classified into two groups. The calculated correlations within groups were acceptable, while correlations between groups were low. The Renault method is situated between the two groups, because one parameter given by this method showed a good correlation with the British standard, while the other had a good correlation with the French standard.
J.P. Domingues, A.M. Manich, R.M. Sauri and A. Barella
Plans a wear simulation of assembled textile structures by sewing, basing the study on the submission of standardized seams carried out on 40 wool fabrics and blends containing…
Abstract
Plans a wear simulation of assembled textile structures by sewing, basing the study on the submission of standardized seams carried out on 40 wool fabrics and blends containing wool to a series of 20 cycles of fatigue, including: washing, drying and submission to a static mechanical load under determined characteristics and steam ironing. Seams in the warp and weft directions were performed on. Examines the following parameters: fabric strength and elongation to break; seam strength and slippage; seam efficiency; seams’ opening limit and both the modulus at 1mm and at break, along the fatigue cycles. Analyses results obtained in function of the seam directions and fatigue cycles.
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Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti, Mohammad Yousefpour Navid and Mohammad Hossein Rahimi
Silicone softeners are widely used in the textile industry to improve the performance of textile products. The thermal characteristics and flammability of polyester fabrics can be…
Abstract
Purpose
Silicone softeners are widely used in the textile industry to improve the performance of textile products. The thermal characteristics and flammability of polyester fabrics can be influenced by these compounds, which need to be considered, as important issues of human safety. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the changes induced on the polyester fibre by silicone softener treatment using a pad/dry/cure method.
Design/methodology/approach
The fibres were first treated with nano‐ and microemulsion silicone softeners. The influence of the silicone emulsion type on thermal properties and flammability of the resultant samples were investigated by various analytical techniques, namely, the differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA), dynamical mechanical thermal analysis (DMTA) and horizontal flammability test (HFT).
Findings
Results showed that the silicone softeners increase the thermal degradation and flammability of the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate.
Originality/value
The paper's study of thermal and flammability of the silicone‐treated sample is novel and can be used to optimize the properties of silicone polymers during production and consumption.
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Henadeera Arachchige Ayomi Enoka Perera and Wilathgamuwage Don Gamini Lanarolle
Thermoplastic polymer fabrics are normally heat set to make them dimensionally stable. These fabrics in garment panel form may again be exposed to heat during the processes such…
Abstract
Purpose
Thermoplastic polymer fabrics are normally heat set to make them dimensionally stable. These fabrics in garment panel form may again be exposed to heat during the processes such as bonding, sublimation printing and cause to change their dimensions. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the response of polyester yarns in knitted fabrics to heat setting and post-heat treatments.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the thermal shrinkage behaviour of heat set polyester knitted fabrics when subjected to post-heat treatment processes are analyzed using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and analysis of fabric shrinkage. DSC is a thermo-analytical technique that measures the difference in the amount of heat needed to increase the temperature of the sample and the reference. A heat flux versus temperature curve is one of the results of a DSC experiment. The polymer structure and morphology of polyester heat-treated and post-heat–treated fabrics were determined by examining the DSC thermograms.
Findings
Heat setting and post-heat setting causes the effective temperature of polyester to change. Effective temperature occurred around 160°C for fabrics heat set at low temperatures and increases as the heat setting temperature increases. Post-heat treatments cause to elevate the effective temperature. Shrinkage of fabrics below the effective temperature is not statistically significant while the shrinkage at higher temperatures is significant. Effective temperature is the main determinant of thermal shrinkage behaviour of polyester.
Originality/value
The study reveals the significance of the effective temperature of polyester on heat treatments and post-heat treatments. The study revealed that heat-setting temperature is a primary determinant of the thermal stability of polyester fabric that are subjected to heat treatments.
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Shimaa S.M. Elhadad, Hany Kafafy, Hamada Mashaly and Ahmed Ali El-Sayed
The purpose of this study is to use liposome technology in the treatment of fabrics textiles because of its efficient energy saving, reducing time and temperature.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to use liposome technology in the treatment of fabrics textiles because of its efficient energy saving, reducing time and temperature.
Design/methodology/approach
The newly prepared lecithin liposome was used to encapsulate dyes for the purpose of increasing dyeing affinity. Different ratios of commercially available lecithin liposomes (1%, 3%, 5% and 7%) were used simultaneously in the dyeing of cotton and wool fabrics. The treated fabrics (cotton and wool fabrics) were confirmed using different analytical procedures such as scanning electron microscope (SEM), Fourier-transition infrared spectroscopy, ultraviolet protection factor, colour strength (K|S) measurements and fastness measurements.
Findings
The results show that increasing liposome ratios in dyeing baths leads to increased dyeing affinity for cotton and wool fabrics compared with conventional dyeing without using liposomes. In addition to that, the colour strength values, infrared spectra, SEM and fastness properties of non-liposome-dyed fabrics and liposome-dyed fabrics were investigated.
Originality/value
The research paper provides broad spectrum of green encapsulation fabrics using liposome technology to perform the dye stability, dye strength and fastness.
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Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric…
Abstract
Purpose
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.
Design/methodology/approach
This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.
Findings
The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.
Originality/value
The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.
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Mallika Datta, Devarun Nath, Asif Javed and Nabab Hossain
The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal…
Abstract
Purpose
The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed.
Design/methodology/approach
The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here.
Findings
The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m2 of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively.
Practical implications
This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m2 will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control.
Originality/value
There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.
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Xingbing Yang, Xinye Wang, Wei Li, Tingting Zhang, Mengmeng Yan and Xue Fu
This paper aims to study the direct synthesis of imino methyl ether amino resin using commercially available formaldehyde, melamine and methanol through one-step two-stage…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to study the direct synthesis of imino methyl ether amino resin using commercially available formaldehyde, melamine and methanol through one-step two-stage catalysis.
Design/methodology/approach
Initially, melamine undergoes a reaction with formaldehyde to form hydroxylmethylation melamine in a basic setting. Subsequently, hydrochloric acid is incorporated to facilitate the etherification process. The study delves into the impact of various factors during the etherification phase, including the quantity of methanol, the temperature at which etherification occurs, the number of etherification cycles and the amount of catalyst used, on the synthesis of imino methyl-etherified amino resins. Ultimately, the most favorable conditions for etherification are identified through comparative analysis to evaluate the resulting synthesized products.
Findings
The methyl-etherified amino resin, characterized by a stable structure and consistent performance, was efficiently synthesized through a one-step, two-stage catalytic process. Optimal conditions for the etherification stage were determined to be a reaction temperature of 35°C, a melamine to methanol ratio of 1:24 and an addition of hydrochloric acid ranging from 2.2 mL to 2.5 mL. Remarkably, the resulting resin notably enhanced the water resistance, salt resistance and gloss of the canned iron printing varnish coatings.
Originality/value
Amino resins, known for their broad applications across numerous industries, face sustainability and operational efficiency hurdles when produced through traditional methods, which predominantly involve the use of a 37% formaldehyde solution. To tackle these issues, our research introduces an innovative method that add 37% formaldehyde to facilitate industrial production. The use of 37% liquid formaldehyde in this paper has two benefits: first, it is convenient for industrial application and production; Second, it is convenient to provide mild reaction conditions at lower concentrations because the amino group is relatively active, which is convenient for the preservation of the amino group and integrates it with a one-step, two-stage catalytic process. The primary objective of our study is threefold: to reduce the environmental footprint of amino resin synthesis, to optimize the use of resources and to improve the economic viability for its large-scale production. By employing this new strategy, we try to provide a more sustainable and efficient manufacturing process for amino resins.
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Salise Oktay, Nilgün Kızılcan and Başak Bengü
In industrial applications, formaldehyde-based wood adhesives have been used extensively because of their low costs and high reactivity. However, their real-world applications are…
Abstract
Purpose
In industrial applications, formaldehyde-based wood adhesives have been used extensively because of their low costs and high reactivity. However, their real-world applications are hindered by some main bottlenecks, especially the formaldehyde emission and usage of nonrenewable raw materials. The purpose of this study is the development of sustainable and formaldehyde-free wood adhesive formulation.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, starch and tannin-based wood adhesive were synthesized. Chemical structures and thermal properties of the prepared bio-based resin formulations were elucidated by using Fourier transform infrared and differential scanning calorimetry analysis, respectively. Laboratory scale particleboard production was carried out to determine the performance of the developed resin formulations. Obtained results were evaluated in dry medium (P2) according to European norms EN 312 (2010). Furthermore, the board formaldehyde content was determined by using the perforator method according to the European Norm EN 12460-5.
Findings
The results show that the improved starch and tannin-based wood adhesives were successful in their adhesive capacity, and the formaldehyde content of the final product was obtained as low as 0.75 mg/100 g. This paper highlights that the presented adhesive formulations could be a potential eco-friendly and cost-effective alternative to the formaldehyde-based wood adhesives for interior particleboard production.
Research limitations/implications
Starch-based resins in the liquid form needed to be continuously mixed throughout their shelf life to prevent the starch from settling because it was not possible to dissolve the precipitated starch again after a while. For this reason, starch was given to the chips in powder form while preparing the particleboard.
Practical implications
In conclusion, this study shows that the developed bio-based resin formulations have a high potential to be used for producing interior-grade particleboards instead of commercial formaldehyde-based wood adhesives because the obtained results generally satisfied the interior grade particleboard requirements according to European norms EN 312, P2 class (2010). In addition, it was determined that the produced boards had significantly low formaldehyde content. The low formaldehyde content of the final boards was not because of the resin but because of the natural structure of the wood raw material, press parameters and environmental factors.
Social implications
The developed bio-based resin system made it possible to obtain boards with significantly low formaldehyde content compared to commercial resins.
Originality/value
The developed bio-based resin formulation made it possible to produce laboratory-scale board prototypes at lower press factors and board densities compared to their counterparts.
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Sajal Kumar Chattopadhyay and Bindu Venugopal
Most researchers have neglected the effect air-drag force on yarn tension during rotor spinning. This paper aims to study the effect of rotor air-vacuum pressure in conjunction…
Abstract
Purpose
Most researchers have neglected the effect air-drag force on yarn tension during rotor spinning. This paper aims to study the effect of rotor air-vacuum pressure in conjunction with opening roller speed and yarn linear density on the yarn tension generated during the rotor spinning, which has established their significant influences on both the mean and the peak tension.This is the first of one-of-a-kind experimental study being reported to demonstrate the influence of air-drag force on yarn tension during the rotor spinning under dynamic condition.
Design/methodology/approach
The dynamic measurements on yarn tension at the exit of the doffing tube were carried out by using an electronic capacitive yarn tension meter during rotor spinning. The derived experimental data were fitted into equations to construct the response equations and to work out the coefficients of multiple correlation between the data and the predicted equation for both the mean and the peak tension. Various surface plots were constructed by using those response surface equations, so as to study the effect of variables on yarn tension generated during the rotor spinning.
Findings
The study has established that the rotor vacuum is responsible in causing a change in yarn tension, it increases with the decrease in air-vacuum inside the rotor. The involvement of the opening roller speed in altering yarn tension during rotor spinning has been proved. As the opening roller speed changes, so does the air stream surrounding the opening roller speed with consequent alteration of the centrifugal force generated due to the rotation of the rotor. The centrifugal force and, hence, the yarn tension generated in the rotor will be simultaneously affected by both the rotor relative vacuum and the opening roller speed.
Research limitations/implications
This is a structured experimental study to verify the influence of air-drag force generated during rotor spinning on yarn tension. Very limited theoretical work has been carried out in this direction as reported in the introductory part of the paper. The result of the present study will encourage future researchers to revisit the theory on generation of air-drag force during rotor spinning and work out a new formula.
Practical implications
Next only to the conventional ring spinning system, the rotor spinning holds the second place in the share of global yarn production. Because of its advantage of lower cost of production and amenability to automation, the rotor spinning has gained acceptance in spun yarn production, particularly for spinning coarse and medium counts of yarns. Currently, it has acquired about 25 per cent share in the world’s spun yarn production. As many of the rotor machine variables significantly affect fibre configurations and, subsequently, the yarn properties by influencing the airflow characteristics inside the rotor unit, the study of yarn tension during rotor spinning and its analysis assumes a significance.
Social implications
Rotor spinning is a relatively new and faster method of conversion of discrete fibres into continuous staple yarn and, subsequently, various textiles and garments. Its yarn is distinct and a bit different compared to the conventional ring yarn. It has got wide acceptance in the market and fashion. As such, the spinning sector that converts fibres into yarns is an important industry world over, providing employment to many. Besides, being the basic operation in the fibre value chain, it supports many downstream activities, including human clothing and fashion. Thus, the research on rotor spinning, particularly the yarn engineering to produce better products will be helpful to strengthen and grow the textile value chain.
Originality/value
This is an original research study. The magnitude and the direction of the air drag on the yarn during rotor spinning is very difficult to assess. Thus, most researchers for the sake of simplicity in analysis have neglected its effect on yarn dynamics, but a few of them have taken note of it in their theoretical propositions. However, no experimental result has been reported so far in the literature, supporting the influence of such air-drag force on yarn tension in the rotor spinning. In fact, none of the above studies have considered the induced effect of centrifugal force caused because of the rotation of the opening roller on the airstream that flows from the transfer channel inlet into the rotor because of its partial vacuum, causing consequential effects on air-drag force and tension in the yarn inside the rotating rotor. This is the first of one-of-a-kind experimental study being reported to demonstrate the influence of air-drag force on yarn tension during the rotor spinning under dynamic condition.