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The use of nonwoven fabrics in garment has been, up to now, purely functional and hidden from view. In fact, their uses have been limited to garment interlining in the apparel industry. Felted structures from wool have been limited to the craft market for the production of art and craft objects of decoration. This paper aims to compare the mechanical and thermo-physical comfort properties of a woven wool, a felted wool fabric, a felted wool/polyester and two non-woven synthetic fabrics for apparel use.

Fabric samples were sourced locally. Five fabric samples were selected: one woolen woven, one felted woven, one polyester/wool non-woven and two non-woven synthetic fabrics. The wool fabric was felted by mechanical action using the Wascator FOM 71P machine. All fabric samples were conditioned before they were tested for their mechanical and thermal comfort properties as per standard test methods.

The comparative study of the mechanical and thermal properties of the five fabric samples have been successfully investigated as textile materials for commercial garments. In terms of fabric stiffness, drape and handle, the two non-woven synthetic fabrics were, in general, poorer than the woven wool and the felted woven wool fabrics. The synthetic non-woven fabrics also performed poorly in terms of serviceability. But it was found that the nonwoven synthetic fabrics were best suited when thermal insulation is required and were found to be better than the woven felted wool fabric of comparative weight per unit area.

The value of this study is that it demonstrates the scope of felted woolen structures and other synthetic nonwovens fabrics as usable materials, in part or in full, in the development of apparel for winter wear especially in cold environments and where aesthetic appeal is secondary.

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour resistance measurement times till the equilibrium steady state can vary in the case of natural fibres compared to synthetic fibres. Devices for determining water vapour resistance according to the ISO 11092 standard allow static values to be measured.

In this study to investigate the dynamic of the water vapour resistance, a new parameter named “holding period” was introduced and defined as the time from sample placement on the measuring head until the measuring process begins. The holding period was varied as 0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240 and 300 s. Wool and cotton knitted fabrics were tested as natural fibres and compared to 100% polyester and 90% polyester/10% elastane as synthetic fibres. Measurements were conducted under both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s. The experimental test data were statistically analysed based on ANOVA and four-in-one residual plots.

Statistical analysis of experimental tests shows that the holding period affects water vapour resistance in both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s and on the measured values in the case of hydrophilic fibres.

The study of the dynamic relative water vapour permeability of natural and synthetic is an important area of interest for future research.

It is recommended to hold the samples on the top of the head measurement before starting the test.

Following the ISO 11092 standard, the static values of the water vapour resistance were measured without considering the dynamic behaviour of the water vapour diffusion through the textile fabrics. This paper fulfils an experimental dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance.

In this paper, the thermal contact comfort of a suddenly wetted shirt and some selected mechanical parameters of ten various woven shirt fabrics were measured with the aim of determining the effect of their composition on their complex quality level. In order to explain the thermal contact comfort of superficially wetted shirts, a new parameter called moisture absorptivity was introduced and a simple equation of the moisture transfer between the fabric and skin was derived. Since the direct measurement of the moisture absorptivity is complicated, an indirect method for its experimental determination was described and used for evaluation of thermal comfort. As regards the final complex evaluation of the measured shirt fabrics, it was found that shirts containing 25‐40 per cent of classical PES fibres blended with cotton, compared with non‐treated pure cotton shirts, have shown similar or even better water vapour permeability, fairly warmer feeling in dry state, better shear, fairly better ability to keep the form and a bit lower moisture absorptivity (worse thermal contact comfort feeling in the case of superficial wetting). Moreover, thermal comfort properties may be still improved by the application of special modified PES fibres.

In this paper, a simple original method and instrument for testing the thermal efficiency of garments containing PCM particles is described. The efficiency is characterized by the length of time that the garment can offer protection, when the effective thermal resistance is at least two times higher then the thermal resistance of the same garment without any PCM function. The related instrument can simulate any boundary conditions typical for the wearing of PCM garments. The good functionality of the instrument was verified by the tests. The experiments revealed that the length of time that the tested commercial garments could offer protection is quite short.

This paper describes a simple method for evaluating the thermal insulation capacity of fibrous layers in sleeping bags. Our measurements have kept the thickness layer at 75per cent of the thickness when the sleeping bag is in free state. Thus, the expansion (volumetric)characteristics of the tested fibrous layers are respected, resulting in a more objective evaluation and comparison of the tested layers. The results were recalculated to the same square mass of layers. It was found that various layers differ substantively from one another, and that these first results also differ from those achieved under common testing procedures, where the tested layers are subjected to constant pressure between two plates of different temperature.

Describes a research project in which a cotton twill fabric was subjected to various finishing treatments. Then the level of puckering of finished fabrics before and after washing was evaluated subjectively. Simultaneously, by means of the KES‐F instruments, all the mechanical properties of these samples were determined, and the results were used to calculate their formability and sewability. All the results were then analysed by means of the multivariate method. Concludes that a higher level of sewability generally offers samples without puckering as well as higher values of 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5, and to some extent higher levels of B and G also.

This paper aims to investigate on composite fabrics to develop the improved sleeping bag using trilayered textile structures. A thermal comfort analysis of fabrics is essential to design an enhanced type of sleeping bag.

In this study, optimizing thermal and permeability properties of different combinations of trilayer composite fabrics was done. The inner layer was 100% wool-knitted single jersey fabric. The middle layer was polyester needle punched non-woven fabric. The outermost layer was nylon-based Core-Tex branded waterproof breathable fabric. Five variations in wool-knitted samples were developed by changing the loop length and yarn count to optimize the best possible combination. Two different polyester non-woven fabrics have been produced with the changes in bulk density. Twelve trilayer composite fabric samples have been produced, and thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity, thermal resistance, air permeability and relative water vapour permeability have been analysed.

Among the 12 samples, one optimized sample has been found with the specification of 100% wool with 25 Tex yarn linear density having 4.432-mm loop length inner-layered fabric, 96 g/m² polyester nonwoven fabric as the middle layer, and 220 g/m² Nylon-Core tex branded outermost layer. All the functional properties of the composite fabric are significantly different with the knitted wool fabrics and polyester nonwoven fabrics, which have been confirmed by analysis of variance study.

This research work supports for producing sleeping bag with enhanced comfort level.

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

The paper evaluates the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics. Twill drapery fabrics with 18 Tex linen warp yarn where two types of weft yarns were utilized respectively with the order of “A” yarn and “B” yarn. 58 Tex Lyocell Linen blended first weft yarn (A yarn) was kept constant and the second weft yarn (B yarn) varied in different yarn structures and yarn count. Thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness were measured by means of Alambeta device. Correlation matrix between the thermal properties was also displayed. Air permeability results were obtained by using SDL Atlas Digital Air Permeability Tester Model M 021 A. One way analysis of variance (ANOVA) test was performed in order to investigate the effect of weft yarn type on thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.

In this paper, weft yarn type was found as a significant factor on some of the thermal comfort properties such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistivity, thermal absorptivity, fabric thickness and on the air permeability properties.

There are limited works related to evaluation of some thermal comfort and air permeability properties of Lyocell blended drapery fabrics.