Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to investigate the factors influencing consumer attitudes towards purchasing sustainable fashion. In particular, the authors examine the impact of self-transcendence and self-enhancement values on consumer attitudes towards purchasing sustainable fashion. The authors also examine the enablers (environmental concern, durability and fashion leadership) and barriers (fashion consciousness and price sensitivity) of sustainable fashion purchase behaviour.
Design/methodology/approach
The authors used a Web-based self-administered survey to collect data from 350 millennials. Partial least squares structural equation modelling was used to analyse data.
Findings
The findings indicate no substantial impact of self-transcendence values on attitudes towards sustainable fashion – while self-transcendence values exerted a notable effect on sustainable purchasing behaviour and environmental concerns. Furthermore, the results revealed no relationship between individuals’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion and their purchasing behaviour, whereas a strong relationship has been established between environmental concerns and attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Practical implications
It provides empirical insights into factors that are pertinent in understating barriers and drivers of sustainable fashion behaviour among millennials.
Originality/value
This study uses the value-attitude-behaviour hierarchy to understand the purchase intentions of sustainable fashion, extending the range of sustainable consumption factors associated with attitudes and behaviour gaps.
Keywords
Citation
Madinga, N., Aspeling, D. and Dlamini, S. (2025), "Understanding sustainable fashion consumption among millennials in South Africa", Young Consumers, Vol. 26 No. 7, pp. 1-17. https://doi.org/10.1108/YC-02-2024-1999
Publisher
:Emerald Publishing Limited
Copyright © 2024, Nkosivile Madinga, Duanne Aspeling and Siphiwe Dlamini.
License
Published by Emerald Publishing Limited. This article is published under the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY 4.0) licence. Anyone may reproduce, distribute, translate and create derivative works of this article (for both commercial & non-commercial purposes), subject to full attribution to the original publication and authors. The full terms of this licence may be seen at http://creativecommons.org/licences/by/4.0/legalcode
1. Background
The fast fashion industry is one of the most unsustainable industries in the world, producing more greenhouse gas emissions than all international flights and maritime shipping combined (Webster, 2023). This devastating impact on the environment and society has led to the emergence of sustainable fashion as a response to the negative consequences of traditional fashion consumption and manufacturing practices (Dabas and Whang, 2022). Sustainable fashion is a broad term that encompasses clothing and manufacturing practices that are less harmful to people and the environment (Khan et al., 2023). Sustainable fashion emerged in the early 1960s, when consumers began to become aware of the impact of fast fashion manufacturing on their communities and called for the fashion industry to change its practices (Eifler, 2014; Jony et al., 2017; Starčević et al., 2022). According to Fraser and Van der Ven (2022), the 1990s saw a massive surge in fast fashion, driven by the globalisation of clothing production. Companies moved production to countries with relaxed social and environmental regulations and cheap labour force, which led to overconsumption, environmental pollution, higher emissions and exploitation of workers (Fraser and Van der Ven, 2022). In response, sustainable fashion emerged as a solution to address these issues. As sustainability has become a significant topic in marketing theory and practice, efforts are being made to encourage sustainable consumption among consumers (Webster, 2023).
According to Lundblad and Davies (2016), the understanding of sustainable fashion consumption is still limited. Research on ethical consumption suggests that personal values play a significant role in ethical decision-making (Webster, 2023). In this paper, we examine the impact of values (self-transcendence and self-enhancement) on consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion and purchase behaviour. Furthermore, we examine the enablers (environmental concerns, durability and fashion leadership) and barriers (fashion consciousness and price sensitivity) of sustainable fashion purchase behaviour.
According to Gam (2011), fashion orientation factors (such as fashion leadership and fashion consciousness) and environmental concerns are crucial factors influencing consumers’ intentions to purchase eco-friendly fashion clothing. In addition, flaws in clothing, such as rips or tears, contribute to consumers’ decisions to swiftly dispose clothes, thereby impacting the environment negatively. As such, sustainable fashion designers emphasise the importance of clothing durability as a fundamental element in promoting sustainability (Aakko and Niinimäki, 2022). To achieve a more sustainable consumption pattern, it is important to overcome the barriers that exist and to understand the factors that hinder the purchase and consumption of sustainable fashion (Brandão and da Costa, 2021).
The current literature on sustainable fashion consumption has primarily focused on industrialised countries such as the USA, Europe and Asian countries (Bianchi and Gonzalez, 2021; Brandão and da Costa, 2021; Fuxman et al., 2022; McNeill and Venter, 2019), whereas research on sustainable fashion consumption in developing countries has been limited. Despite increasing consumer preference for sustainable fashion options, the impact of sustainable fashion consumption in developing countries remains largely unexplored. This gap in the literature highlights the need for further investigation into sustainable fashion consumption across different region.
The fashion market in Africa, for example, is rapidly growing and expected to reach $10.12bn by 2027 (Statista, 2023). The dearth of research on sustainable fashion consumption in this region is of great significance, as it represents a rapidly growing market driven by economic growth and increasing consumer spending. The European_Environmrnt_Agency’s (2019) report underscored the environmental impact of the fast fashion industry, attributing approximately 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions to its practices. The report also indicates that developing countries, where much of the clothing production occurs, are more affected by overconsumption of fast fashion. Compounding this issue is the substantial influx of second-hand clothes from developed countries, with around 70% of donated clothing globally finding its way to Africa (AllAfrica, 2023). However, despite the well-intentioned nature of such donations, a considerable portion ultimately ends up discarded due to inferior quality, posing significant environmental risks (Greenpeace, 2022). Consequently, the South African Government has stressed the importance of sustainability within the fashion industry. Continual government regulations are pushing businesses to embrace sustainability (Abbate et al., 2024). Although there have been initial efforts within the South African textile and clothing sector to address sustainability concerns, including campaigns aimed at reducing carbon footprints and pollution, there remains a critical gap in understanding consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion purchasing. Bianchi and Gonzalez (2021) argued that the adoption of sustainable fashion consumptions can be influenced by cultural and economic differences between developed and developing countries. In developing countries, socio-economic challenges often lead to consumers to prioritise affordability over sustainability. However, it can be argued that South Africans may demonstrate a greater inclination towards sustainable consumption due to the influence of the “African spirit of Ubuntu” (van Norren, 2022). The concept of Ubuntu, loosely translated as “I am because we are”, embodies a collective consciousness that guides individuals to consider the well-being of others, including future generations (Thakhathi and Netshitangani, 2020). This ethos drives actions that benefit the community and the environment, viewing harm to the planet as a violation of Ubuntu principles. Thus, the spirit of Ubuntu is expected to be deeply ingrained in South African values, influencing behaviour towards more sustainable practices (van Norren, 2022).
Millennials, a significant consumer group, also play a significant role in the sustainable fashion industry (Falke et al., 2022). According to research, 66% of millennials are willing to spend more on sustainable brands (Landrum, 2017). However, limited research has been conducted on factors that influence millennial’s consumption of sustainable fashion. Thus, this study aims to address this gap in the literature and examine sustainable fashion consumption among millennials in one of the African countries, South Africa.
After the introduction, this section is followed by a literature review that delves into the sustainability of the fashion industry, exploring the factors that enable or hinder sustainable fashion consumption. The literature review is then followed by a detailed description of the research methodology and data analysis. The discussion is the next section and it interprets the findings. Finally, the section concludes with managerial implications, providing practical recommendations for businesses, policymakers and other stakeholders to promote sustainable fashion consumption.
2. Literature review and hypothesis development
2.1 The sustainability of the fashion industry
Sustainability is the practice of using resources in a way that ensures they are available for future generations (Ruggerio, 2021). The term encompasses not only our relationship with the environment but also with ourselves, our communities and the institutions we interact with (Webster, 2023). As consumers become more aware of the impact their actions have on the environment, there is a growing interest in sustainable practices, particularly in the clothing and textile industry (Bianchi and Gonzalez, 2021). The clothing and textile industry is one of the most destructive industries in the world, contributing to high carbon dioxide emissions and waste disposal (Jung et al., 2020). The fast fashion business model, adopted by major retailers, exacerbates these problems by meeting ever-changing consumer needs without regard for society and the environment (Webster, 2023). This paradox puts the fashion industry at odds with sustainability. As a result, governments has introduced regulations to encourages businesses to embrace sustainability (Abbate et al., 2024). Due to this, fast fashion producers are striving to transform their unsustainable practices, yet achieving this shift relies heavily on consumers embracing sustainable fashion through their purchase decisions (McNeill and Moore, 2015). While there’s a prevailing notion that consumers are becoming more concerned about unethical practices, particularly in the fashion sector, this heightened awareness doesn’t always translate into tangible behavioural changes (Jacobs et al., 2018; James and Montgomery, 2017; Williams and Hodges, 2022). This discrepancy between consumer attitudes and actions poses a significant challenge for fashion producers and retailers alike. McNeill and Moore (2015) underscored the importance of conducting research to understand this gap, emphasising the imperative for aligning consumer sentiments with actual behaviours in the context of fashion consumption.
2.2 Millennials and sustainable fashion
Millennials are deeply concerned about climate change and believe that humans have a significant role in mitigating its effects (Falke et al., 2022). Their activism and efforts to mobilise governments and businesses to prioritise sustainability are clear indicators of this commitment (Tyson et al., 2021). Increasingly conscious of the environmental and social impacts of their actions, millennials strive to align their consumption behaviour with their values (Jasrotia et al., 2023). Research indicates that they are willing to pay more for eco-friendly and sustainable products. Su et al. (2019) assert that millennials prefer products that are sustainable, ethically produced, handmade, repairable and long-lasting. However, the relationship between millennials’ desire for fast fashion and their environmental concerns is complex and often contradictory. Studies show that millennials’ love for trendy, affordable clothing is heavily influenced by social media, which promotes a culture of constant consumption and the desire to be seen in new outfits daily. Despite this, millennials remain environmentally conscious (Ali et al., 2023), supporting sustainable initiatives and caring about the long-term impacts of their actions (Manley et al., 2023). Previous studies have highlighted that sustainable consumption intentions at times do not align with the actual behaviour (Busalim et al., 2022). Manley et al. (2023) argued that while environmental concerns and values drive individuals to choose sustainable fashion, opting for non-sustainable clothing does not inherently indicate a lack of ethical awareness or environmental conscious. This gap between consumer values and behaviour has been a concerns for many scholars, businesses and governments (Chen et al., 2023; Joshi and Rahman, 2019; Paul and Bhattacharyya, 2023; Webster, 2023; Williams and Hodges, 2022).
2.3 Value-attitude-behaviour hierarchy
The attitude–behaviour gap in sustainable consumption is a well-documented phenomenon, where individuals hold positive attitudes towards sustainable consumption but fail to engage in sustainable purchase behaviours (Chen et al., 2023; Joshi and Rahman, 2019; Paul and Bhattacharyya, 2023; Webster, 2023; Williams and Hodges, 2022). The concept of the attitude–behaviour gap has been applied to explore sustainable consumption across different contexts, such as the purchasing decisions related to green vehicles (Chaturvedi et al., 2023; Paul and Bhattacharyya, 2023), organic cosmetics (Venciute et al., 2023), sustainable tea consumption (Chen et al., 2023), organic food (Anisimova and Weiss, 2023; Chekima et al., 2023) and sustainable fashion consumption (Turkki, 2023). To promote sustainable fashion effectively, it is important to understand the gap between consumer attitude and behaviour. Despite an increase in research on consumer attitudes and behaviours towards sustainable fashion, the findings remain fragmented, lacking a conclusive finding (Duong, 2024; Paul and Bhattacharyya, 2023). Specifically, they present conflicting results regarding the gap between consumers’ attitudes and their actual consumption behaviour (Busalim et al., 2022). Therefore, there is a need for more research to better understand the attitude-behaviour gap (Cheung and To, 2019). A significant barrier contributing to the attitude–behaviour gap is the perception that environmental friendly products come at a premium compared to conventional products (Forbes et al., 2009; Sun et al., 2021). This stereotype holds particular relevance in developing countries like South Africa, where economic challenges are pervasive, as evidenced by the staggering unemployment rate of 31.9% reported in the third quarter of 2023 (Stats_SA, 2023). Consequently, despite harbouring positive attitudes towards sustainable products, many consumers may find themselves financially constrained, unable to afford eco-friendly alternatives. Furthermore, the limited availability and accessibility of sustainable fashion options within the South African market compound this issue. According to Shimul et al. (2022), South Africa is considered an emerging green economy.
In consumer research, particularly within the field of sustainable consumption, bridging the gap between values and actions has posed a persistent challenge for marketing practitioners and businesses. This gap highlights instances where consumers’ held values fail to translate into corresponding behaviours, such as making sustainable purchasing decisions (Essiz et al., 2023). Values have been found to play a significant role in determining behaviour in environmental and social issues (Hur, 2020). Hence, Essiz et al. ((2023) stressed the significance of understanding how values influence consumer attitudes and subsequent sustainable behaviours, emphasising the importance of this understanding for marketers and businesses aiming to promote sustainable consumption and foster a sustainable future. In 1988, Homer and Kahle introduced the value-attitude-behaviour theory, suggesting that the relationship between consumer values and behaviour is mediated by consumer attitudes. This theory posits that an individual’s behaviour is influenced by their attitudes, which are shaped by their values (Kim and Hall, 2021). The theory acknowledges the importance of the attitude–behaviour relationship and recognises the role of values in determining behaviour, particularly in environmental and social issues.
2.3.1 Values.
Literature suggests that personal values are an important factor in the consumer decision-making process (Stringer et al., 2020; Webster, 2023). There is significant research dedicated to understand the role of values in consumption (Stringer et al., 2020). Hiller and Woodall (2019) suggested that values are central consumers’ consumption behaviours. According to Manchiraju and Sadachar (2014), individual’s values are key determinants of their intention to engage in ethical behaviour. This study examines the impact of both self-transcendence and self-enhancement values on consumer attitude towards sustainable fashion consumption. Self-transcendence values can be described as consisting of benevolence and universalism, whereas self-enhancement values can be described as consisting of hedonism, achievement and power (Schwartz, 2012). Individuals who place importance on self-transcendence are more inclined to give priority to environmental issues, have a positive attitude towards sustainable consumption and actively search for sustainable fashion alternatives that are in line with their personal beliefs and values. Thus, we hypothesised that:
Self-transcendence values have a positive impact on attitude towards sustainable fashion consumption.
Self-transcendence values have a positive impact on sustainable fashion purchase behaviour.
Self-transcendence values have a positive impact on environmental concerns.
Jacobs et al. ((2018) found that self-enhancement values act as barriers to sustainable clothing consumption. Manchiraju and Sadachar (2014) argued that self-enhancement values related to self-interest and tend to be in direct opposition to self-transcendence, which could result in a negative relationship with any ethical behaviour that benefits society. Consumers who score high on self-enhancement may view sustainable fashion clothing as less fashionable, which could lead to reluctance to purchase sustainable fashion clothes and a negative attitude towards sustainable fashion. Thus, we hypothesise that:
Self-enhancement value is negatively related to attitude towards sustainable fashion.
Self-enhancement value is negatively related to attitude sustainable fashion purchase behaviour.
Self-enhancement value is positively related to fashion consciousness.
2.3.2 Attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Attitudes play a significant role in shaping behaviour and are widely recognised as one of the main antecedents of behaviour (Dondolo and Madinga, 2016; Madinga et al., 2020; Polkinghorne et al., 2022). This is because attitudes serve as an individual’s internal evaluation of a stimulus and can influence their decision-making and actions (Polkinghorne et al., 2022; Visser and Dlamini, 2021). Individuals who possess favourable attitudes towards sustainable fashion are inclined to give precedence to ethical and sustainable practices when making purchasing choices. These practices encompass opting for garments crafted from environmentally friendly materials, endorsing brands that prioritise sustainability and engaging in clothing recycling or repurposing. Thus, we hypothesise that:
Attitude towards sustainable fashion positively relate to sustainable purchase behaviour.
2.3.3 Sustainable purchasing behaviour.
Sustainable purchasing behaviour is a crucial aspect of sustainable consumer behaviour, characterised by consumers making purchasing decisions that are shaped by their environmental and societal considerations (Joshi and Rahman, 2019). Environmental concerns, durability and fashion leaderships are all factors that influence sustainable purchasing behaviour (Casalegno et al., 2022). By understanding these factors, consumers can make more informed and responsible purchasing decisions that benefit both themselves and the environment.
2.3.4 Factors that enable the purchase of sustainable fashion.
2.3.4.1 Environmental concern.
The fashion industry is currently facing mounting concern over its environmental effects, prompting consumers to exhibit a rising inclination towards sustainable alternatives (Sailer et al., 2022). Individuals make sustainable purchasing decisions based on various factors, including environmental concerns (Bianchi and Gonzalez, 2021). Environmental concern is a key factor in determining whether an individual chooses to make a sustainable purchase (Dlamini et al., 2018; Sailer et al., 2022). Furthermore, there is an increasing consciousness among consumers regarding the significance of waste reduction and the minimisation of their carbon impact. As a consequence, there has been a rise in the need for durable items that possess the ability to endure repeated usage, hence diminishing the necessity for frequent replacements and subsequent waste generation. Thus, we hypothesise that:
Environmental concerns is positively related to attitude towards sustainable fashion.
Environmental concerns is positively related to sustainable purchase behaviour.
Environmental concerns is positively related to durability.
2.3.4.2 Durability.
The fast fashion manufacturing model prioritises the production of inexpensive, low-quality clothes that adhere to rapidly changing trends (Gam, 2011). Consequently, fast fashion items often fade colour quickly and tears when worn frequently over time, leading to the quick disposal. Therefore, one of the strategies to get consumers to wear clothes over a longer period of time is to produce high-quality clothes (Aakko and Niinimäki, 2022). Although there is no universally agreed-up definition of quality, durability of the product typically factors into consideration of quality. Therefore, environmental conscious consumers are inclined to invest in durable clothing options. The durability of sustainable clothing is a crucial factor to consider when making a purchase (Wang et al., 2022). There is an expectation that sustainable clothing will last for a long time and withstand frequent use. This is because sustainability is often associated with quality and durability, as noted by Fletcher (2012). Therefore, it is important for businesses that prioritise sustainability to ensure that their products are durable and of high quality to meet consumer expectations and increase the likelihood of repeat purchases. Therefore, we hypothesise that:
Durability is positively related to consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Durability is positively related to sustainable purchase behaviour.
2.3.4.3 Fashion leadership.
Designers have dedicated significant efforts in designing fashionable sustainable clothes (Gam, 2011), leading to the emergence of sustainable fashion as a prominent trend. Fashion leaders have swiftly embraced this trend, striving to establish themselves as pioneers in the industry. Sustainability has surged in popularity across various social media platforms, with fashion leaders spearheading the sharing of content advocating eco-friendly consumption (Orminski et al., 2021). As a result, research suggests that fashion leaders can play a crucial role in promoting sustainable fashion and reducing consumer resistance to sustainable clothing (Ozdamar Ertekin and Atik, 2015). Yoo et al. (2018) found that fashion leadership was significantly related to the purchase intent of sustainable clothing, indicating that consumers may be more likely to purchase sustainable clothing when influenced by fashion leaders who promote sustainable fashion. Thus, we hypothesise that:
Fashion leadership is positively related to consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Fashion leadership is positively related to sustainable purchase behaviour.
2.3.5 Factors that act as a barrier to the purchase of sustainable fashion.
2.3.5.1 Fashion consciousness.
The relationship between fashion consciousness and sustainable fashion purchase behaviour is complex and multifaceted. While many consumers may perceive sustainable fashion as being less trendy or fashionable, others may regard it as an avenue for expressing their individuality and remain abreast of contemporary trends (Johnstone and Lindh, 2022). According to existing research, there is evidence to show that persons with a strong fashion consciousness may exhibit less propensity to acquire sustainable apparel (Mishra et al., 2021). This is due to the fact that fashion conscious consumers tend to be well-informed about the latest fashion trends, spend a significant amount of time and money on clothing and frequently shop for new items (Gam, 2011). As a result, fashion conscious consumers are more likely to opt for fast fashion, as it allows them to continually try new styles and shop frequently. Thus, we hypothesise that:
Fashion consciousness is negatively related to consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Fashion consciousness is negatively related to sustainable purchase behaviour.
2.3.5.2 Price sensitivity.
In today’s economic climate, consumers are seeking the best value for their money (Madinga et al., 2023). However, the high cost of sustainable products has been identified as a significant barrier to their adoption (Zander and Feucht, 2018). Prior studies have shown that environmental concerns play a role in consumers’ purchasing decisions (Sailer et al., 2022). However, it has been observed that the pricing of sustainable products significantly influences their decision-making process when it comes to making purchases (Kumar and Mohan, 2021). Individuals who are less price sensitive are more likely to purchase sustainable products, while those who are more price sensitive may be less likely to do so (Kumar and Mohan, 2021). Thus, we hypothesise that:
Price sensitivity is negatively related to consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Price sensitivity is negatively related to sustainable purchase behaviour.
3. Research methodology
3.1 Measures
We used a Web-based self-administered questionnaire to gather data from millennials in South Africa. In total, 350 complete questionnaires were collected. The measurement scales used in this study were derived from existing scales used in previous research. To measure self-transcendence values and self-enhancement values, scales were adapted from Blok et al. (2015). A scale adapted from Weigel and Weigel (1978) was used to measure environmental concerns. For the preference for durability, a scale was adapted from Fletcher (2012). A scale measuring fashion leadership was adapted from Lang and Armstrong (2018). For the scale measuring price sensitivity, a scale was adapted from Goldsmith (1999). For the scale measuring fashion consciousness, a scale was adapted from Cho et al. (2015). Finally, for measuring attitude towards sustainable fast fashion and sustainable fashion purchase behaviour, scales were adapted from Joshi and Rahman (2019). To ensure that the variables and items used in this study were relevant and appropriate for the South African context, modifications were made to the original scales and wording of the items. All the variables and items were measured using a five-point Likert scale, with anchors of “strongly disagree” (1) and “strongly agree” (5).
3.2 Respondents’ profile
The demographic profiles of the respondents revealed that the majority of the participants, 68.3%, were aged between 26 and 30 years old, with the largest age group being between 26 and 30 years old (21.4%). The oldest participants, 2.3%, were aged between 40 and 43 years old. Only 0.6% preferred not to indicate their age. In terms of education, the majority of the participants (61.1%) had a bachelor’s degree, followed by 15.4% with a Masters’ degree, 1.7% with a PhD/doctorate degree and 14.6% with diplomas. The smallest proportion of participants (6%) had a matric certificate qualification. Only 1.1% preferred not to indicate their highest educational level.
4. Results and analysis
To test the proposed relationships in this study, the partial least square structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM) method was used. The PLS-SEM was selected as the method of analysis for this study because it is well-suited for examining complex models with multiple constructs and relationships (Joseph F Hair et al., 2019). The PLS-SEM consists of two steps. In Step 1, the measurement model is evaluated, whereas in Step 2, the structural model is evaluated (Hasan et al., 2020).
4.1 Assessment of measurement model
To assess the measurement model, we followed the recommended procedure by Shmueli et al. (2019). Table 1 presents the outer loadings, composite reliability (CR), Cronbach’s alpha values and average variance extracted (AVE) values. The measurement items FC3, SEV1, SEV2, SEV3, SEV4, SEV5, PS1, PS2, PS3, PS4 and PS5 were deleted as they had outer loadings below 0.50, as recommended by Bagozzi et al. (1991, as cited in Lim et al., 2021). This resulted in the elimination of the self-enhancement and price sensitivity constructs from the proposed model. The CR ranged from 0.782 to 0.957, exceeding the recommended criterion of 0.70 (Hair et al., 2019). The Cronbach’s alpha values ranged from 0.743 to 0.928, exceeding the recommended threshold of 0.70 (Hair et al., 2011). All AVE values were higher than the acceptable level of 0.5, indicating that the measurement model had adequate internal consistency reliability. To establish discriminant validity, the heterotrait–monotrait was examined and its values were below 0.85, indicating that the measurement model achieved discriminant validity.
4.2 Assessment of measurement structure
All variance-inflation factors (VIF) values were less than 5, suggesting that there is no indicative of collinearity between the variables (Akinwande et al., 2015). The hypotheses for each path were tested via a bootstrapping technique with 5,000 sub-samples (Joe F Hair et al., 2012). The structural model exhibited a satisfactory fit based on established fit indices. The Standardised Root Mean Residual was 0.072, which falls within the acceptable range of 0.08 or less, as proposed by Hu and Bentler (1999). The Normed Fit Index (NFI) was 0.807, which is close to the recommended value of 0.9, but as per Dash and Paul (2021), the sample size has a significant impact on NFI and it cannot be used alone to determine model fit.
Results of structural equation modelling revealed that self-transcendence values do not significantly influence attitudes towards sustainable fashion (β = 0.063, p = 0.369). However, the results showed that self-transcendence values have a significant influence on sustainable purchase behaviour (β = 0.453, p < 0.001) and environmental concerns (β = 0.455, p < 0.001). This indicates that H1a is not supported, whereas H1b and H1c are supported. The self-enhancement value has been deleted from the model. Therefore, H2a, H2b and H2c were not tested. The findings also revealed that there is no significant relationship between attitude towards sustainable fashion and sustainable fashion purchase behaviour (β = −0.040, p = 0.480). Therefore, H3 is not supported. Environmental concern was found to have a significant influence on attitudes towards sustainable fashion (β = 241, p < 0.001). In addition, H4a is supported. However, H4b, which states that there is a significant relationship between environmental concern and sustainable purchase behaviour, is not supported as the results showed no significant relationship between the two variables (β = 0.251, p = 0.644). The results also indicated that environmental concerns have a significant impact on perceived durability (β = −0.130, p < 0.001). Thus, H4c is supported. In addition, durability was found to have a significant influence on attitudes towards sustainable fashion (β = 0.290, p < 0.001) and sustainable purchase behaviour (β = 0.206, p < 0.001). Therefore, H5a and H5b are supported.
On the contrary, fashion leadership was found to have no significant influence on attitudes towards sustainable fashion (β = −0.001, p = 0.992) and sustainable purchase behaviour (β = 0.075, p = 0.390). Therefore, H6a and H6b were not supported. Fashion consciousness was found to have a significant impact on attitudes towards sustainable fashion (β = 0.241, p < 0.001). However, the relationship between fashion consciousness and sustainable purchase behaviour was found to be negative and insignificant (β = −0.045, p = 0.491). Therefore, H7a is supported, whereas H7b is not supported. The relationship between price sensitivity and attitude towards sustainable fashion and sustainable purchase behaviour was not tested (Table 2).
4.2.1 Measuring R2 value.
To establish the explanatory power, we examined the R2. As shown in Figure 1, the R2 values are 0.337, 0.287, 0.088 and 0.087 for sustainable purchase behaviour, environmental concerns, attitude towards sustainable fashion and durability, respectively. Wong et al. (2016) stated that there is no universal threshold for an acceptable R2 value as it varies based on the model’s intricacy and the research field.
4.2.2 Predictive power of the model.
The PLS-Predict has been used in this study to examine the predictive power of the proposed model. The Q2 value for sustainable purchase behaviour is 0.275, environmental concerns is 0.277, durability is 0.081 and attitudes towards sustainable fashion is 0.021.
5. Discussion
The primary objective of this research was to investigate the impact of self-transcendence values, self-enhancement values, environmental concerns, fashion leadership, fashion consciousness and durability on individuals’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion and their subsequent sustainable buying behaviour. The results unveiled significant observations pertaining to these relationships. The findings indicate that there is no substantial impact of self-transcendence values on attitudes towards sustainable fashion. This study suggests that persons who prioritise self-transcendence values may not necessarily exhibit more favourable attitudes towards sustainable fashion. On the contrary, it was found that self-transcendence values exerted a notable impact on sustainable purchasing behaviour and concerns related to the environment. This finding implies that persons who prioritise self-transcendence values are more likely to participate in sustainable purchasing practices and exhibit greater degrees of environmental consciousness. The results of this study provide empirical support for our formulated hypotheses and underscore the significance of self-transcendence values in fostering sustainable consumer behaviour. Consumers purchase sustainable products on ethical grounds even if they might not necessarily have favourable attitudes towards them. According to García et al. ((2019, p. 10) “values are the basis of all human behaviours”. Hence, there is a strong correlation between self-transcendence values and sustainable fashion purchase behaviour. The removal of the self-enhancement value from the model resulted in the omission of hypotheses H2a, H2b and H2c, hence precluding their examination.
The results revealed that there is no statistically significant correlation between individuals’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion and their actual purchasing behaviour in the context of sustainable fashion. While previous studies suggested a strong relationship between attitudes and behaviour, a study conducted by Samarasinghe (2012) found that environmental attitudes do not translate into behaviour. Previous studies indicate that the attitude–behaviour gap has been a barrier of sustainable consumption (Paul and Bhattacharyya, 2023; Wintschnig, 2021). Consumers may hold positive attitudes towards sustainable consumption but face barriers or competing priorities that prevent them from taking actions that are aligned with their attitudes.
The study found a significant relationship between environmental concern and attitudes towards sustainable fashion. The aforementioned result suggests that those who possess heightened degrees of environmental concern are more inclined to possess favourable attitudes towards sustainable fashion. Nevertheless, the hypothesis, which posited a significant relationship between environmental concern and sustainable buying behaviour, was not supported. This implies that there may not be a clear correlation between environmental concerns and the adoption of sustainable purchasing practices within the realm of sustainable fashion. Moreover, it was found that environmental concerns exerted a substantial influence on durability. The aforementioned correlation implies that individuals who possess heightened degrees of environmental concerns tend to consider durability as a key factor in their decision-making process when selecting sustainable fashion options. Moreover, the results of the study emphasised the substantial impact of durability on individuals’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion and their behaviour in making sustainable purchases. This finding implies that those who place importance on the longevity of fashion items are more inclined to hold favourable attitudes and participate in sustainable buying practices.
6. Managerial implications
Given that this study found that self-transcendent values significantly impact both sustainable purchase behaviour and environmental concerns, marketers should tailor their campaigns to highlight the benefits of sustainable fashion consumption for the environment and society’s well-being. These campaigns can emphasise a sense of responsibility towards future generations and the broader impact of sustainable consumption. This can be achieved through storytelling and showcasing ordinary people’s efforts to reduce climate change by choosing sustainable fashion. Additionally, companies can use social media challenges where individuals showcase how they use sustainable fashion to mitigate climate change. Encouraging user-generated content through such challenges can increase millennial engagement and create a sense of community, providing authentic testimonials that can influence others to change their behaviour.
Given that environmental concerns influence consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion, marketers should invest in educational campaigns to raise awareness about the issues caused by unsustainable consumption and the role humans play in climate change. These campaigns could highlight how individuals can minimise their ecological footprint in their daily lives, showing the environmental impact of fast fashion and the benefits of opting for sustainable fashion. Partnering with environmental activists can help amplify this message.
The perception that sustainable clothing is more durable than fast fashion influences both consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion and sustainable purchase behaviour. Therefore, marketers should emphasise the long-lasting nature of sustainable fashion in their campaigns. They could involve trusted environmental activists to attest to this and gather testimonials from customers. Furthermore, advertisements should highlight the product quality of sustainable fashion clothing. Demonstrating durability can help overcome price sensitivity by positioning sustainable fashion as a cost-effective choice in the long run.
Theoretically, this study contributes to the ongoing debate concerning the attitude-behaviour gap, specifically in sustainable fashion. This can be seen in the no significant correlation between individuals’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion and purchasing behaviour. Secondly, the findings of this study highlights the complex relationship within the value-attitude-behaviour hierarchy in the context of sustainable fashion. Although self-transcendent values directly impact sustainable purchase behaviour, they do not influence attitudes towards sustainable fashion. This indicates that the values can influence behaviour directly, bypassing attitudes, which challenges the traditional value-attitude-behaviour model. Thirdly, this study found that environmental concerns impact attitude towards sustainable consumption in the sustainable fashion context but do not translate into purchase behaviour. Suggesting a disconnect between consumer attitudes and behaviour. Fourthly, this study durability of sustainable fashion clothing as an important factor influencing both consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion and purchase behaviour. Finally, the results also contribute to sustainable consumption literature, specifically from millennial consumers and the African perspective context, thus extending the body of knowledge on the extant literature.
7. Limitation and future research
The study could have been more comprehensive in its generalisability issues due to targeting only the millennials in South Africa, even though South Africa represents other groups outside of this target. In addition, the sampling technique limits the sample’s representation to the study’s time consideration. Future studies can focus on longitudinal data to ascertain whether factors influencing sustainable fashion change over time because the attitude–behaviour gap was evident in the sustainable context and was not significant. Future studies can explore other areas of sustainability and product categories.
Figures
Figure 1
Measurement structure results
Measurement statistics of constructs
| Research construct | Factor loadings | Cronbach’s alpha | CR | AVE |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Self-transcendence value (STV) | 0.818 | 0.830 | 0.584 | |
| STV1 | 0.729 | |||
| STV2 | 0.732 | |||
| STV3 | 0.846 | |||
| STV4 | 0.843 | |||
| STV5 | 0.652 | |||
| Attitude towards sustainable fashion (ATSF) | 0.928 | 0.930 | 0.776 | |
| ATSF1 | 0.860 | |||
| ATSF2 | 0.916 | |||
| ATSF3 | 0.911 | |||
| ATSF4 | 0.905 | |||
| ATSF5 | 0.808 | |||
| Sustainable purchase behaviour (SPB) | 0.874 | 0.881 | 0.674 | |
| SPB1 | 0.869 | |||
| SPB2 | 0.911 | |||
| SPB3 | 0.634 | |||
| SPB4 | 0.871 | |||
| SPB5 | 0.792 | |||
| Environmental concerns (EC) | 0.743 | 0.782 | 0.569 | |
| EC1 | 0.695 | |||
| EC2 | 0.798 | |||
| EC3 | 0.771 | |||
| EC4 | 0.702 | |||
| EC5 | 0.823 | |||
| EC6 | 0.721 | |||
| Fashion leadership (FL) | 0.904 | 0.937 | 0.7020 | |
| FL1 | 0.824 | |||
| FL2 | 0.896 | |||
| FL3 | 0.846 | |||
| FL4 | 0.817 | |||
| FL5 | 0.840 | |||
| Durability (D) | 0.815 | 0.836 | 0.577 | |
| D1 | 0.824 | |||
| D2 | 0.896 | |||
| D3 | 0.846 | |||
| D4 | 0.817 | |||
| D5 | 0.840 | |||
| Fashion consciousness (FC) | 0.743 | 0.782 | 0.569 | |
| FC1 | 0.867 | |||
| FC2 | 0.842 | |||
| FC4 | 0.655 | |||
| FC5 | 0.624 |
STV = self-transcendent values; ATSF = attitudes towards sustainable fashion; SPB = sustainable purchase behaviour; EC = environmental concerns; D = durability; FL = fashion leadership; FC = fashion consciousness
Source: Authors’ own work
Results of PLS-SEM
| Hypotheses | Relationships | Path co-efficient | p-value | Decision |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| H1a | STV → ATSF | 0.063 | 0.369 | Not supported |
| H1b | STV → SPB | 0.453 | 0.000 | Supported |
| H1c | STV → EC | 0.535 | 0.000 | Supported |
| H2a | SEV → ATSF | Not tested | ||
| H2b | SEV → SPB | Not tested | ||
| H2c | SEV → FC | Not tested | ||
| H3 | ATSF → SPB | −0.040 | 0.480 | Not supported |
| H4a | EC → ATSF | 0.241 | 0.000 | Supported |
| H4b | EC → SPB | 0.025 | 0.644 | Not supported |
| H4c | EC → D | 0.290 | 0.000 | Supported |
| H5a | D → ATSF | −0.130 | 0.029 | Supported |
| H5b | D → SPB | 0.206 | 0.000 | Supported |
| H6a | FL → ATSF | −0.001 | 0.992 | Not supported |
| H6b | FL → SPB | 0.075 | 0.390 | Not supported |
| H7a | FC → ATSF | 0.241 | 0.000 | Supported |
| H7b | FC → SPB | −0.045 | 0.491 | Not supported |
| H8a | PS → ATSF | Not tested | ||
| H8b | PS → SPB | Not tested |
STV = self-transcendent values; SEV = Self-enhancement values; ATSF = attitudes towards sustainable fashion; SPB = sustainable purchase behaviour; EC = environmental concerns; D = durability; FL = fashion leadership; FC = fashion consciousness; PS = price sensitivity
Source: Authors’ own work
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Corresponding author
About the authors
Nkosivile Madinga is based at the School of Management Studies, University of Cape Town, Cape Town, South Africa.
Duanne Aspeling is based at the University of Cape Town, Cape Town, South Africa.
Siphiwe Dlamini is based at the School of Management Studies, University of Cape Town, Cape Town, South Africa.