Research on 3D reconstruction of late Victorian riding skirts
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
ISSN: 0955-6222
Article publication date: 26 September 2018
Issue publication date: 18 October 2018
Abstract
Purpose
Virtual design of contemporary and historical clothes is a very intensive and developing area of science that can be considered as a bridge between costume heritage and modern way of its presentation by means of CAD. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D existing CAD for virtual reconstruction of the very specific kind of women’s clothes such as a side-saddle riding habit (RH) used in 1875–1915.
Design/methodology/approach
The construction of RH was adapted to the aesthetic rules of the mentioned time, ergonomic posture of a woman sitting on a horse, surface of the horse’s body which the woman is sitting on. For the new method, the huge databases were obtained after analyzing the historical pattern manuals and features of pattern blocks used, possible postures of riding, construction of RH and converting it into virtual system “avatar – RH.” To reconstruct the side-saddle RH in virtual reality, the images dated 1887 and authentic pattern blocks were used. Special attention has been given to the topology of contacting areas existing between the sitting woman and “shaped” riding skirt and to the method of presenting it by means of special points combination.
Findings
The authors have developed a new method of virtual reconstruction of an RH that is based on automatic consideration of all joining elements such as “shaped” riding skirt, avatar and its ergonomic posture. The new approach allows reconstruction of the clothes in virtual reality in three ways: by using the real skirts, the historical pattern blocks or pictures.
Originality/value
The results obtained allow increased possibilities of virtual reconstruction and include in the list new objects of engineering achievements of the nineteenth century such as the side-saddle RH. This study should help researchers and practical specialists to recreate and save the historical treasure in a digital way.
Keywords
Acknowledgements
The authors thank “The Side Saddle Association” (The Lodge, Glebe Farm, Broughton Astley, Leicestershire, LE9 6PG, Tel: 01455 208345, www.sidesaddleassociation.co.uk/) for providing systematic informational support to this exploration. The authors are also immensely grateful to Ekaterina Nikitina, the general secretary of the “Saint Petersburg amazons” association (https://rusamazonky.nethouse.ru/) for consulting on various aspects of side-saddle riding, as well as to Evgenii Surzhenko (Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design) for giving comments and suggestions on goniometry methods. The images of RH were obtained from open access archives of the Webster Family Library (Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, 200 Westboro Road, North Grafton, MA 01536 www.library.tufts.edu/vet/). This work has been supported by the Russian Ministry of Science and Education under the project No. 2.2425.2017/ПЧ “Development of software for virtual design of system ‘body-clothes’ in static and dynamic and for virtual try-on Fashion Net.”
Citation
Kuzmichev, V., Moskvin, A., Moskvina, M. and Pryor, J. (2018), "Research on 3D reconstruction of late Victorian riding skirts", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 30 No. 6, pp. 790-807. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-12-2017-0192
Publisher
:Emerald Publishing Limited
Copyright © 2018, Emerald Publishing Limited